DISABLED VET NEEDS HELP AND NEEDS IT BAD BOLENS ST120/ 3212G

[ACHTUNG]

Ok let's start over, because I am just as confused. First I am going to explain how everything should work. To start an engine you must be sitting on the seat (seat safety switch) and either have unit in park or foot on the brake/clutch petal (clutch safety switch). As I said before, you can override the seat with the parking brake engaged. After the engine starts you must be on the seat to engage the PTO. if the engine cuts out when the PTO is engaged, the unit thinks no one is in the seat.
Second, I don't know what resistor they fixed. Are you sure that they did not replace the stator and the diode? If they did replace a resistor, can you explain where it was?
If everything worked fine before the repair, we should really start there with everything hooked up the way you found it, and then start from there.

First, do you prefer I send you private msgs, or just on thre thread? i'm afraid you won't see them of you don't go back to the thread!

OK To start over, I know there is a plunger switch under the the seat, i know it's function - i have had many mowers and am VERY familiar with its presence and it's concept. Last year, the mower worked fine until fall, when it became diffcult to start, etc.

This spring, I brought it in, and the stator and (i thought they said ) resistor was diagnosed as bad, so the repair was done. He said he tested it, indeed there was new grass on it, so I believe him. I got it home, it ran fine for 30 feet or so. i then noticed that as soon as it began to stall, it I quickly put my foot on the clutch, it sputtered back to life. i unhooked the center lead from the harness under the clutch as a troubleshooting beginning point, and it helped, but only for another 30 feet, so THAT clearly wasn't the problem. I THEN noticed that adjusting my rear on the seat was affecting the performance, so I had it in mind to disconnect the two leads on the seat safety switch and JUMP THEM - thereby bypassing and eliminating the safety switch under the seat as a troubleshooting technique. My plan was to see if this did the trick and if so, i'd just leave it "jumped" or replace the seat switch.

As it turns out, the two wire leads didn't need to be "jumped". As soon as I unhooked them, the mower now mows when i remove my foot from the clutch - with the two wires from the seat safety switch UNJUMPED and just hanging there loose.. i now suspect that since a tech can work on the mower by 'Locking" the clutch, there must be a wiring issue between the seat safety switch and the clutch locking switch.

I just dug out and consulted my receipt..indeed it says "resistor...$15.00". So we know it was a resistor.

I am just confused why it ran for him at the shop - I DO live down a 3.5 mile bumpy logging road so something may have jogged loose, but that's what the receipt indicates. i am frustrated because before taking a shot to the head in the military, and even since, i am known as the family fix-it guy. I can fix anything from indoor plumbing, wiring, boat motors, lawn mowers, cars...you name it. THIS wiring problem has me flummuxed (a minnesota word) and as I said - my military pension isn't enough to go buy a new cadet!

 

[SONOFADOCKER]

To tired to read your post but I have a parts donor at my shop that we just took an engine out . Scrap man will come for it soon ...

 

[Rivets]

I am starting to understand some things and will get back to you tonight after work. Could you call your repair shop and ask them if it was a resistor or diode that was replaced. I know where the diode is and if that was replaced it should have nothing to do with your problem. The diode is part of the charging circuit. If it is a resistor, have them explain where it is located, so I can figure out what it does. Also you do not have to send a PM and a new posting each time. I try to reply to each posting as soon as I can.

 

[ACHTUNG]

I am starting to understand some things and will get back to you tonight after work. Could you call your repair shop and ask them if it was a resistor or diode that was replaced. I know where the diode is and if that was replaced it should have nothing to do with your problem. The diode is part of the charging circuit. If it is a resistor, have them explain where it is located, so I can figure out what it does. Also you do not have to send a PM and a new posting each time. I try to reply to each posting as soon as I can.

Sorry. I wasn't sure you would be notified if I just responded to a thread. If I respond to a thread like this, do you get notified? ANYWAY: I called the repair shop and asked for clarification on the resistor/diode issue. he said, and i quote "I don't know what the hell it's called. It sits behind the batter and is like a little plug. I wasn't sure if it was bad but they're cheap so I replaced it, and when i did it started right up"

I am beginning to think this whole thing is just a problel with the safety switch 'neath the seat. As soon as I troubleshooted and unplugged them, it ran fine - so I am going with that unless you say differently...

 

[KennyV]

...
...If I respond to a thread like this, do you get notified?
... "I don't know what the hell it's called. ... I wasn't sure if it was bad but they're cheap so I replaced it, and when i did it started right up"

...

When you respond to any thread, you will be 'subscribed' to that thread and they will automatically show when you are signed in ...Anything with any new activity will show in bold print...

A repair shop that replaces things that they Don't Know what it is called... ? I sure would Never trust. As Rivets said, I can't place any Resistor in that circuit... As for it being "cheap".. at $15 a pop for an unknown part, that may have something to do wit something, sounds like nothing was done so there was some bill padding ...
Finding an intermittent fault in an electrical circuit Can be done... & you don't fix it by throwing parts at the problem hoping you'll get lucky... You need to ask for a refund $$ and then get a different repair shop... Someone that will Know how to trouble shoot AND Know what a replaced component is called & what it's function is in a circuit...
:smile:KennyV

 

[Rivets]

Kenny is right, get a refund ASAP and if we can't help you I'll help find a good repair shop. I think what they called a resister is probably a fuse from the description you are posting. I would also question replacing stator, as the stator does not have anything to do with not starting, it is for charging the battery. Ask for both the "resister" and the "stator" back, especially if they refuse any refunds on any of the parts. There are a few of us that would like to see them and tell you how to test them. Time to treat them like a hunger dog if you know what I mean.

If it is a fuse that was replaced, then we still have to find out why it blew in the first place. You say you can mow with it now, so let's leave it at that until we find out what your repair shop has to say. Just remember that you have disabled one of the safety switches. Can you post the model and serial numbers for both the tractor and the engine. This will allow us to see if we can find a wiring diagram and start looking for solutions to solve your problems.