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So I’m an idiot. SMH

I did a tune up today on my hustler dash. I bought one of those metal block locks to remove the blades and install new ones. After I cleaned under the deck and change the blades I turned the mower on and turned the blades on and forgot to take the block out. FML. The blades never spun. The blades hit the block and the mower shut off. Did I do any real damage?
I did inspect the blade that hit the block and there wasn’t any damage or issues with the blade. I did cut my front yard and it appeared to be find but not sure if what I did might cause some big issue later. Or am I just being paranoid?

thanks

no

there is a aluminum key in-between the crankshaft and the flywheel that will sheer if it was anything to worry about and if the deck is not vibrating the spindle shaft is good enough.

Rocky J said:

there is a aluminum key in-between the crankshaft and the flywheel that will sheer if it was anything to worry about and if the deck is not vibrating the spindle shaft is good enough.

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I cut the yard today. Didn’t seem to have any issues. Thankfully

Rocky J said:

there is a aluminum key in-between the crankshaft and the flywheel that will sheer if it was anything to worry about and if the deck is not vibrating the spindle shaft is good enough.

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Ok, so i went to change the blades again yesterday, and the blade that hit the block wont come off. I ended up stripping the bolt trying to get the bolt off. Any thoughts on my issue? Think i screwed up the spindle?

I was going to buy vice grips to see if i could get it off with that.

To remove the blades the bolt or nut turns the same direction as the blades when they are cutting grass So when it hit the block solid it tightened the bolt super tight , it is set up that way so they do not come loose when engaged, with that said maybe if you take a 3 pound hammer and strike the blade from the back side , the unsharpened side , out on the end to gain leverage, wear your goggles or face shield as it might chip and blind you. This should reverse what striking the block did. I have had better luck with a small pipe wrench then vice grips. If deck is not removed you may have to and use the block tool to hold the other blade.

If you don’t have an impact wrench, I would remove the deck and take it to a local auto repair shop, with a dozen donuts in hand. Most will be glad to help you out.

I tried everything. Couldn’t get it to budge. I was just about to have the shop come and pick it up and remembered my buddy worked on tractors and mowers and such. Came over with his tools. Popped it off in to second. SMH. All good now.

My wife ran over some elevated roots with my old FasTrak and did the same thing, I didn't strip the head on the bolt but it took some "persuading" to get that blade off. Glad you got it sorted out, I've messed up more stuff trying to take care of it than I have just using the crap out of it. Irony. LOL

I use anti-seize on my blade bolts. A bit always gets on the bolt face next to the blade, and instead of over-tightening the bolt, it seems to slip a bit under it. I use a Ryobi 1/2 impact wrench rather than my air tools and never have a problem. There are two types of anti-seize available nowadays: aluminum or copper-based. I prefer the latter because of its ability to withstand heat when I use it on exhaust studs and bolts. Go sparingly... a little dab'll do ya!

The Chairman said:

I use anti-seize on my blade bolts. A bit always gets on the bolt face next to the blade, and instead of over-tightening the bolt, it seems to slip a bit under it. I use a Ryobi 1/2 impact wrench rather than my air tools and never have a problem. There are two types of anti-seize available nowadays: aluminum or copper-based. I prefer the latter because of its ability to withstand heat when I use it on exhaust studs and bolts. Go sparingly... a little dab'll do ya!

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Are you sure of that ?
Copper is generally used for all but very high temperatures and on stainless steel.
The silver is usually nickel for stainless and very high temperatures like exhaust manifold bolts .

I agree with Bert on this one. I use copper based on everything but stainless.

Regular silver based is rated at 1600F.

Copper version goes to 1800F.

Nickel goes to 2400F.

All well above what a blade bolt will ever see.

slomo

For what it's worth, this is the reason why belts are still used as it's a safety feature. If you were mowing and say hit a larger rock that lodged between the blade and deck, locking the deck up solid, the belt can slip while the motor stalls out due to the lock up being beyond it's brake horse power rating to still spin. If the belt was really stretched and dried out or loose, the crank pulley might still spin but deck would be locked if still powered. If it was a chain or shaft drive, things would break easier. So be glad you have a belt.

Any time you do have a lock up, especially with newer equipment that might not be as heavy-duty as something from 30-50 years ago, be sure to inspect EVERYTHING. Maybe they used a thinner gauge sheet metal on the deck itself and it buckled slightly and not readily perceivable, but the blade is now canted and pulley for blade isn't lined up right, and now you have belts getting torn up, or maybe a crack gets introduced to the deck, maybe the blade's hub got cracked loose from the deck, and it drops a bolt while mowing over time, etc..

Yep, anti-seize on threads, and I remove my blades monthly to clean underdeck and re-sharpen and balance, so bolts haven't been on too long anyway.

Never had a problem removing blades before, but I am taking the advice given here and will start using the anti-seize on my blade/spindle bolts. Thanks for sharing the wisdom.

Yep, 18yrs on mower and 4th set of blades. I do use a 24" breaker bar to break'em loose and tighten.

If you use anti sneeze on ANY bolt, the torque value will be "around" 30% less than a dry bolt.

Rough example - dry bolt proper torque is 50ft lbs. With anti sneeze 35ft lbs. Also depends on the lube type and clean threads ect...

The Chairman said:

I use anti-seize on my blade bolts. A bit always gets on the bolt face next to the blade, and instead of over-tightening the bolt, it seems to slip a bit under it. I use a Ryobi 1/2 impact wrench rather than my air tools and never have a problem. There are two types of anti-seize available nowadays: aluminum or copper-based. I prefer the latter because of its ability to withstand heat when I use it on exhaust studs and bolts. Go sparingly... a little dab'll do ya!

Click to expand...

Exmark actually recommends the copper anti-seize on their blade bolts. I use anti-seize mostly to keep the bolts and bolt holes from gaulding.