Both AC & or DC output on mowers, can be measured with a OHM meter, while engine is running.Working on a B&S Model 254707-0120-01. Is there a way to determine the DC output of the B&S alternator, part number 592828/ superseded Part number 391529?
Then I must have been doing wrong all these years using volt and amp meters.Both AC & or DC output on mowers, can be measured with a OHM meter, while engine is running.
I find the best way to measure if the battery is charging is to use a DC current clamp and put it on the positive battery terminal with the engine at full throttle and all of the accessories (and electric PTO, if applicable), and see if current is flowing into the battery. Fool proof method and very useful. Applies to cars too!Working on a B&S Model 254707-0120-01. Is there a way to determine the DC output of the B&S alternator, part number 592828/ superseded Part number 391529?
Do not use a ohm meter you must use a volt meter. Should be 12 volts or more up to 14 volts.Both AC & or DC output on mowers, can be measured with a OHM meter, while engine is running.
No matter what the amperage out put of the charging system the voltage output has to be more than a fully charged battery which is around 12.75 volts or over time the load on the battery would kill the battery since it would not be charging the battery.
Working on a B&S Model 254707-0120-01. Is there a way to determine the DC output of the B&S alternator, part number 592828/ superseded Part number 391529?
The eady way js to useWorking on a B&S Model 254707-0120-01. Is there a way to determine the DC output of the B&S alternator, part number 592828/ superseded Part number 391529?
You can use a clip on amp meter attached to the positive battery cable. To test remove the fuse from the alternator and run the engine noting the amp and voltage draw. Shut the engine off and reinstall the fuse. Start the engine. If the amp meter is showing positive amps and the voltage has increased then all is well. The biggest issue wrh is fhe wire touches the flywheel causing the battery not to charge.Working on a B&S Model 254707-0120-01. Is there a way to determine the DC output of the B&S alternator, part number 592828/ superseded Part number 391529?
The previous part number is, though. and it's a 3 amp.That part no. does not show in the Briggs alternator chart but that style stator produces between 2-4 amps.
Alternators were another "mystery to me " when I kicked off.That one thing Briggs doesn't do and that is to keep charts and service manuals up to date. That's why I posted the supersede list so each of the previous number could be check against the chart. Some of the service info has been outdated for some time.
In this case it is just better to install a 9+ amp AC stator and used the rectifier/voltage regulator if the customer is wanting to do anything other than recharge the battery. Something like the tri circuit stator.
It is like the Briggs engine spec charts that are out of date. I have a personal copy of the non Vanguard chart that I have made numerous notes on as new updated SB and DSB info was published.
That basically all we need to; unless, we designing a new system. It nice to know how they got there but normally all we to know is a system is operating within the design specs which in this case the 2-4 amps regulated spec. Now the output ampere can boosted a little by installing a regulator but not worth the expense of regulator; unless, you install the higher amperage stator in the first place. Otherwords beef up the charging system.When something with a battery comes in the shop i use an internal resistance type tester to find the health of the battery. Then i clean battery connections and start the equipment and run it up to about 3000 rpm and check voltage at battery to see if it is charging and then turn on any accessories like cluth and lights and measure voltage at batter for charging voltage. If it has about 13.5v or better i call it good and move on to other maintenance. I am sure the internet will tell me i am wrong but i try to not over think a lawn mower charging system. Don't really care if it is peak to peak, RMS or average volts. My meter is a true RMS meter but doesn't matter all that much.
As I was taught in engineering school 40+ years ago... "Facts Are Our Friends!"
Enjoy!
Whatever, lol. You hacks on these forums are a joke. If you think it is any more complicated than what I explained, is only puffing your shallow ego.Well trying to explain this is going to be well over the heads of most. Plus it take several days of reading on my part to fully familiarize myself with the formulas (heck it been 40+ yrs since I knew these by heart.) But I do have my ARRL manuals on the shelf for reference
But txmowman your understanding of rectified DC circuits is lacking. Even your theory is off several volts. You got RMS voltages being converted to pulsing DC voltage ((0V to peak (RMS - rectifier voltage drop). First you must consider peak AC voltage, voltage drop the rectifier, the capacitance in the load, along with other factors.
Here is an example of what is actually at your 120 vac wall plug. It varies from zero to about 170v peak (or about 340 volts peak to peak) 60 times a second or 50 times a second outside the US. This why it can easily kill you along the amp capacity.
The reason Briggs don't give a voltage rating is that an unregulated DC circuit voltage is quite varied depending a which factors are present at the time of the voltage measurement.
Somewhere in the barn i still have my old slide rule. Haven't used it since high school. Probably forgot how to use it by now. It is probably in the same box as my drafting board T square and triangles and french curves also not used since i found Sketchup. I think i threw out the Heathkit VTVM i built. Us old hack dinosaurs are fading away. Funny thing is i have a friend in his 20's with a degree in electrical engineering specializing in controls and he has me do electrical work on his house. You don't need a torque wrench any more. Just tighten till your bad elbow clicks.Yes there is a sharp cut off between the log tables / slide rule students , the calculator students & the computer students.
We had a physics professor who would put up an equation then promptly round every number up or down to the nearest 10 so we could do the maths in out heads
When some of the students complained about his technique his reply was
"I am trying, with very limited success to show you the how & why , the actual numbers are not important right now.
When you are sending a rocket to Pluto you can worry about the decimal places "
Then there was an engineering tutor who would fail any student who used too many decimal places in an answer .
Most of his problems would have a coarse dimension like 2' so any answer with a greater implied precision of 1/2 foot would be marked as a fail .
I was have a chat about this a while back with a friend.
I have noticed that for some reason all of the mower specs for torque are now in in.lbs which of course implies a precision of +/- 0.5 in.lbs
But the actual tollerances have not changed since they were noted in ft.lbs
I presume this is because of the advent of digital torque wrenches as very few mechanical ones are marked in in.lbs except some micrometer scale spring loaded ones which of course are the least accurate wrenches in the first place.
Star is a little more than a hack. Forums are public place so you often times won't see opinions you agree with.Whatever, lol. You hacks on these forums are a joke. If you think it is any more complicated than what I explained, is only puffing your shallow ego.
I thought i was hot stuff when i got a Ti55 calculator then taking calculus at community college they made us get HP35 calculators. I never did like the reverse polish notation thing to enter data. Of course i wasn't a calculus whiz either. When my son was going to university of Dayton as a sophomore he tutored upper classmen in calculus. Kid is way smarter than me but he still calls the old man to fix his stuff.C'mon Hammer, it's like riding a bike....multiply two numbers using the C and D scales! Mine was the last engineering class in 1976 that the "slip-stick" was taught....a time when the TI SR-50 was the coveted dream machine calculator!
For the record txmowman, nobody is 'puffing their shallow ego.' We're just trying to set you straight. Take the feedback in the spirit in which it was intended, to educate. I realize it's hard to admit that your understanding of a topic is flat out wrong, on multiple levels. I guarantee you every one of us has done so here or elsewhere. But to sit there and insist that 2 x 2 = 5 and we are the 'hacks' for informing you it's really 4 speaks volumes, especially after you were provided with the technical sources right from B&S so you wouldn't have to take our word for it!
I still wish you a Happy New Year!
This thread has turned into a real pi**ing contest between a few.
The OP just wanted to know how to test DC output.....it was answered in the first 4 replies, now it's on page 5....LOL
One of my big mistakes in life was to abandon ultrasonics in favour of acoustic emissions .Somewhere in the barn i still have my old slide rule. Haven't used it since high school. Probably forgot how to use it by now. It is probably in the same box as my drafting board T square and triangles and french curves also not used since i found Sketchup. I think i threw out the Heathkit VTVM i built. Us old hack dinosaurs are fading away. Funny thing is i have a friend in his 20's with a degree in electrical engineering specializing in controls and he has me do electrical work on his house. You don't need a torque wrench any more. Just tighten till your bad elbow clicks.
"Give a man a fish, he eats for a day. Teach a man to fish, he eats for life!"
I initally bought a HP 21 because it was all I could affordI thought i was hot stuff when i got a Ti55 calculator then taking calculus at community college they made us get HP35 calculators. I never did like the reverse polish notation thing to enter data. Of course i wasn't a calculus whiz either. When my son was going to university of Dayton as a sophomore he tutored upper classmen in calculus. Kid is way smarter than me but he still calls the old man to fix his stuff.
Someone should answer the actual question in the original post.Is there a way to determine the DC output of the B&S alternator,
We didSomeone should answer the actual question in the original post.
So, ... There isn't.
Because the B&S Alternator on that engine doesn't generate DC. It makes AC (Alternating Current). That's why it's called an Alternator.
If an electrical device makes DC then it's called a Generator.
You know, if you can’t say anything useful or helpful, just don’t say anything at all. And some feedback for you: volts and amps are also units of measurement that come from a multimeter, i.e. Fluke sells “multimeters.”Then I must have been doing wrong all these years using volt and amp meters.
bertsmobile1, can you answer a question about the stator sizes? Is a Briggs stator on a 40777 engine the physical size as a 31R777?Alternators were another "mystery to me " when I kicked off.
However while the part numbers are allover the place, the colour codes are fairly consistent so the chart was printed out A2 size, laminated & stuck on the inside door of the electric stuff cupboard
So I can work out what stator goes on which mower.
However I only stock two B & S stators , the late model 9 amp & 20 amp
If a replacement stator is required then I upgrade most of the unregulated ones to current regulated specs which down here is cheaper than chasing up old duel or tri circuit stators