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Dana/Spicer 4360-55 locks up in lower gears

#1

O

ooops

My riding mower is a Wizard w/ B&S 16hp twin and Spicer/Dana 4360-55 transaxle yr.1993
Occasional hard shifting for couple seasons. Neut to rev, neut to 1st/2nd etc. About
80% of usage. Now very frequent. Due to terrain and "sealed system" I'm sure.
I know parts NA, hard to find. But engine/deck are very good.
I have a parts diagram/list.
Any assistance, probable parts needed, etc. Greatly appreciated.
Before I attack it.


#2

R

Rivets

I’ve rebuilt many of those units over the years and without opening it up I’m guessing that the shift keys are worn and being nearly 30 years old the lube is probably hard. Hard to guess what other part might be bad without seeing and feeling it in person. If you do open it up a word of caution. Many parts on the inside will be very, very sharp. Never done one without getting blood on my hands.


#3

R

Rivets

I forgot to add that if you decide to repair it you should get the following parts. Axle seals and bushings. Many times Peerless transmission parts can be used in Dana/Foote units. I know this is a Peerless manual, but they are so similar that it many be of help. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Te...FFERENTIALS-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-691218.pdf


#4

O

ooops

Rivets, thanks for the help/advice. When I'm wrenching, cuts are almost daily.


#5

O

ooops

Well, finally got this project in line.
Removed cover w/o much effort. All gears/shafts etc. rotate very smoothly. Ample grease covering. And grease
piled up all around. Obviously not pliable enough. Gives me hope the shift keys are just "clogged".
Removed all sub-assemblies (see pics, I hope) except brake/shift shaft. Placed all in sequence, etc. Now I need some guidance.
Any how, do, don't advice?
From previous posts I know parts to buy, brass bushing orientation, USE 4300 grease.
Have found no info on gear orientation, sequencing, etc. If any.
Thx in advance!

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#6

StarTech

StarTech

Read the following Tecumseh Transaxle service manual. It is the closest I have seen for these Dana/Splicer units.

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecums...FFERENTIALS-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-691218.pdf


#7

R

Rivets

I don’t understand what you mean by gear orientation? Can you try to explain it better. Also, if you try removing the gears from the shafts be VERY VERY VERY careful to note the exact direction they come off, as they need to go back together the same direction. When I disassemble one of these I have a large sheet of cardboard to lay everything out on. Star, that’s the same manual I posted on earlier.


#8

B

bertsmobile1

I use a length of all thread with a nut on one end so the gears & spacers slide off the shaft directly onto the rod
Then I degrease them, & do a visual inspection 1 at time before sliding back onto the shaft
Double on Rivets warning , they are Sharp and blood will rust steel & dezinc brass quite efficiently
Where possible I use 00 or 000 liquid grease and live with the slight seepage as it remains liquid
Another tech I know uses chain boiling grease which is lanolin with graphite .
The lanolin melts at a very low temperature so sloshes around and lubricates beautifully then as it cools down it solidifies to the consistency of bentonite axel grease so does not leak out when not in use .


#9

O

ooops

Rivets said:
I don’t understand what you mean by gear orientation? Can you try to explain it better. Also, if you try removing the gears from the shafts be VERY VERY VERY careful to note the exact direction they come off, as they need to go back together the same direction. When I disassemble one of these I have a large sheet of cardboard to lay everything out on. Star, that’s the same manual I posted on earlier.
Click to expand...
Rivets, thank you for the reply. IE- After cover removal, I rotated all the assemblies. Checking gear teeth, etc. Removed complete assy. from case. Don't know configuration of the mounting hole. Internal "tabs" or ? to maintain co-ordination w/ shaft or adjacent gears or assemblies. My "hope" is to carefully separate brake/shift shaft parts. Correct shift problem (solidified grease or ?) and reassemble with new keys. Remove grease from case cavities and reassemble with new grease.


#10

O

ooops

StarTech said:
Read the following Tecumseh Transaxle service manual. It is the closest I have seen for these Dana/Splicer units.

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecums...FFERENTIALS-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-691218.pdf
Click to expand...
Thanks, I have Rev. 6/96.


#11

O

ooops

bertsmobile1 said:
I use a length of all thread with a nut on one end so the gears & spacers slide off the shaft directly onto the rod
Then I degrease them, & do a visual inspection 1 at time before sliding back onto the shaft
Double on Rivets warning , they are Sharp and blood will rust steel & dezinc brass quite efficiently
Where possible I use 00 or 000 liquid grease and live with the slight seepage as it remains liquid
Another tech I know uses chain boiling grease which is lanolin with graphite .
The lanolin melts at a very low temperature so sloshes around and lubricates beautifully then as it cools down it solidifies to the consistency of bentonite axel grease so does not leak out when not in use .
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I hope to stick with 4300, if I can find it.


#12

O

ooops

I have viewed a few hours of videos. None (that I've found) address breaking down the brake/shift shaft. IMO the most intricate one.
Getting ready to "wing it". :( I guess.


#13

R

Rivets

Here is a parts diagram for your tranny. To make it easier to understand will you please use part numbers and/or names so we know exactly what part or location you are talking about. This will make it less confusing and easier to answer your questions. Also, please make you don’t lose part #3, detention ball, as they drop out into the grease and you won’t know it’s missing until after assemble and try to use the unit. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/403128/Dana-4360-55.html


#14

O

ooops

My 1st step was remove screws/springs/balls. 3, 4, 5. Per prev. advice.
This step is asy. #'s 19 thru 72. Plan is to remove parts, 19/11/20/21. Hopefully to find & remove grease buildup. Hope not to find damaged shift keys or ?
Then check this assy. for movement of shift keys and gear selection.
Have not found Spicer 4300 grease. Located Tecumseh 788067C. Both bentonite.
Thanks for your help.


#15

R

Rivets

I’ve used Tecumseh bentonite only in both Peerless and Foote units with no problems. Don’t be afraid to use most of the tube before reinstalling the cover and install the detent ball after closing the cover. Post a picture of the shift keys as to an untrained eye they may look good, but should be replaced. Also, don’t be afraid to ask questions as you’re going through the unit, as I would always instruct my students, BETTER TO ASK A DUMB QUESTION THAN MAKE A STUPID MISTAKE.


#16

O

ooops

Disassembled as planned. Did not find a blockage of grease in the shift key/guide channel. - 4 grooves in the shaft.
Grease was dry in that area. Grooves uniform and smooth. I will replace keys (as is said "abundance of caution") and previously suggested parts.
Tecumseh grease is on order.
ANY suggestions on parts suppliers, Spicer/Dana 4360-55 to Peerless 920 or 930 series parts cross reference greatly appreciated!!
THX!


#17

R

Rivets

Any good repair shop which handles Tecumseh repair parts can get you Peerless parts. I don’t know who might be a Spicer/Dana distributor anymore.


#18

O

ooops

I followed all above suggestions. Thanks!
Other than old/dried grease, only 1 potential problem. One of four clutch keys was de-formed.
Keys NLA, and newer models only use 2 keys. I reused it.
Done, operating great!
THX again for the guidance.

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#19

R

Rivets

If this problem does reoccur, take your bad key to a good repair ship who handles Tecumseh/peerless parts. I’ve found that most parts are interchangeable, just have to do a side by side match.


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