Dana/Spicer 4360-55 locks up in lower gears

ooops

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My riding mower is a Wizard w/ B&S 16hp twin and Spicer/Dana 4360-55 transaxle yr.1993
Occasional hard shifting for couple seasons. Neut to rev, neut to 1st/2nd etc. About
80% of usage. Now very frequent. Due to terrain and "sealed system" I'm sure.
I know parts NA, hard to find. But engine/deck are very good.
I have a parts diagram/list.
Any assistance, probable parts needed, etc. Greatly appreciated.
Before I attack it.
 

Rivets

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I’ve rebuilt many of those units over the years and without opening it up I’m guessing that the shift keys are worn and being nearly 30 years old the lube is probably hard. Hard to guess what other part might be bad without seeing and feeling it in person. If you do open it up a word of caution. Many parts on the inside will be very, very sharp. Never done one without getting blood on my hands.
 

Rivets

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ooops

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Rivets, thanks for the help/advice. When I'm wrenching, cuts are almost daily.
 

ooops

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Well, finally got this project in line.
Removed cover w/o much effort. All gears/shafts etc. rotate very smoothly. Ample grease covering. And grease
piled up all around. Obviously not pliable enough. Gives me hope the shift keys are just "clogged".
Removed all sub-assemblies (see pics, I hope) except brake/shift shaft. Placed all in sequence, etc. Now I need some guidance.
Any how, do, don't advice?
From previous posts I know parts to buy, brass bushing orientation, USE 4300 grease.
Have found no info on gear orientation, sequencing, etc. If any.
Thx in advance!
 

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Rivets

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I don’t understand what you mean by gear orientation? Can you try to explain it better. Also, if you try removing the gears from the shafts be VERY VERY VERY careful to note the exact direction they come off, as they need to go back together the same direction. When I disassemble one of these I have a large sheet of cardboard to lay everything out on. Star, that’s the same manual I posted on earlier.
 

bertsmobile1

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I use a length of all thread with a nut on one end so the gears & spacers slide off the shaft directly onto the rod
Then I degrease them, & do a visual inspection 1 at time before sliding back onto the shaft
Double on Rivets warning , they are Sharp and blood will rust steel & dezinc brass quite efficiently
Where possible I use 00 or 000 liquid grease and live with the slight seepage as it remains liquid
Another tech I know uses chain boiling grease which is lanolin with graphite .
The lanolin melts at a very low temperature so sloshes around and lubricates beautifully then as it cools down it solidifies to the consistency of bentonite axel grease so does not leak out when not in use .
 

ooops

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I don’t understand what you mean by gear orientation? Can you try to explain it better. Also, if you try removing the gears from the shafts be VERY VERY VERY careful to note the exact direction they come off, as they need to go back together the same direction. When I disassemble one of these I have a large sheet of cardboard to lay everything out on. Star, that’s the same manual I posted on earlier.
Rivets, thank you for the reply. IE- After cover removal, I rotated all the assemblies. Checking gear teeth, etc. Removed complete assy. from case. Don't know configuration of the mounting hole. Internal "tabs" or ? to maintain co-ordination w/ shaft or adjacent gears or assemblies. My "hope" is to carefully separate brake/shift shaft parts. Correct shift problem (solidified grease or ?) and reassemble with new keys. Remove grease from case cavities and reassemble with new grease.
 
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