D100 (maintenance and repairs)

[biodiesel]

Also would hurt to clean out the haystack before you have mice making a home in there.

After cleaning out the haystack, I disassembled the brake assembly to inspect all the parts.

 

[biodiesel]

Bio, please PM me your email address and I can give you an electronic copy of the JD Technical Manual for your D100.

Reviewing the Technical Manual that you provided, it looks like I might need two new brake pads.

 

[biodiesel]

The technical manual says to replace the friction pads and the brake disc anytime the transaxle is disassembled. Does anyone know the part number for the brake disc? It's the part labeled #7.

 

[biodiesel]

You mark the belt ( I use a white paint pen then run it through and check for cracking , splits , torn covers or any other defects
You set the brake & remove the idlers
Hold them in your fingers and spin the pulley looking for noises or notchy running , check the pulley flange for cracks , splits or excessive wear .
Grab the fan & check it is secure
Grab the tension arm and check for excessive wear ( hole flogs out oval ) Lube with some dry spray grease .

1) Checked belt for cracking. Belt checks out good.
2) Tried to remove idlers. One came off and checked out good. The other idler won't come off! Any suggestions?

 

[MParr]

Is that pulley making any noise?
Is that pulley seized?
Are you going to replace the pulley?
If the answer is no all of those questions then, there is no need to take it off.
If you are replacing it, spray some penetrating oil around the mounting stud and let it soak for a while. A puller or two pry bars under the pulley will work. If you are replacing, it won’t matter if you mess up the old pulley. Just don’t booger up the mounting stud or bracket. Before putting on a new pulley, lightly sand the stud, where the bearing sits and apply a light film of oil, grease, or anti seize. Mount the new pulley and carry on.

 

[biodiesel]

Is that pulley making any noise?
Is that pulley seized?
Are you going to replace the pulley?
If the answer is no all of those questions then, there is no need to take it off.
If you are replacing it, spray some penetrating oil around the mounting stud and let it soak for a while. A puller or two pry bars under the pulley will work. If you are replacing, it won’t matter if you mess up the old pulley. Just don’t booger up the mounting stud or bracket. Before putting on a new pulley, lightly sand the stud, where the bearing sits and apply a light film of oil, grease, or anti seize. Mount the new pulley and carry on.

Just to be clear, the pulley that is stuck is the transmission idler on the machine, not the deck idler. Since the pulley appears to be in good condition, I will continue to use it. With that said, I went ahead and ordered a drive belt idler arm and two new pulleys last night for a future repair. The belt and pulleys will need to be replaced eventually.

 

[MParr]

I jumped the gun. I didn’t pay attention to the green background color. You will still have to get some penetrating fluid on between the inner bearing race and the mounting stud, use a puller, or two flay bars..

 

[biodiesel]

I took pictures as I removed parts in hopes to make it easier to put it back together.

 

[biodiesel]

On a side note, the key came off the axle. Is that normal?

 

[Scrubcadet10]

that's fine... most key's come off and people don't realize it, then they put it back together and have no forward or reverse.
just put the key back in the slot and put the wheel on.