Sears/Craftsman LT1000 model 917.272061 with Kohler CV461s. As I inherited a JD 240GT I was going to sell the LT1000 as "Ran fine when parked". But, in a fit of "conscience", I found it would not start, even on starter fluid. Pulled my ad.
Replaced coil and it would start and run on spritz can. Not getting gas. Found solenoid on carb to be stuck and would not free up.
Ordered and installed an Aftermarket Carb and fuel filter. It ran fine when started up, so embarked on more fixes. New Blades, Belt, an idler pulley and, having snapped it, the clutch actuator cable. Ah, Ready for Freddy.
Oops. Got about 5 feet and it started running rough then quit. See what having a conscience will do for you?
Fiddled around a bit and found it would run ok, but just a bit shy of "choke 100% off". But it was a bit finicky. As in not consistent.
They replaced the carb, no questions asked, no return required. Same deal. I could see the throttle lever "hunting" a lot and decided that having no bushing in the carb hole end allowed too much "slop" for it to be happy, so ordered the only part I could find. That did not really fit well, seeming it would not snap on to the rod and not interfere with the range of motion. Kind of "mirror image" would seem right.
Anyway, that did not resolve the issue, so, ordered another After Market from another supplier, that also claimed to be for this engine. And a number of others, so . . .
It does the same thing. I find these carbs have two adjustment screws, one is fully exposed and appears to control idle speed, the other is "in" the carb and I suspect must be for "richness". Changing that screw seems to do nothing.
Suggestions? Other than "part it out", "cut your losses"? Well, I guess those are valid also, so fire away.
Replaced coil and it would start and run on spritz can. Not getting gas. Found solenoid on carb to be stuck and would not free up.
Ordered and installed an Aftermarket Carb and fuel filter. It ran fine when started up, so embarked on more fixes. New Blades, Belt, an idler pulley and, having snapped it, the clutch actuator cable. Ah, Ready for Freddy.
Oops. Got about 5 feet and it started running rough then quit. See what having a conscience will do for you?
Fiddled around a bit and found it would run ok, but just a bit shy of "choke 100% off". But it was a bit finicky. As in not consistent.
They replaced the carb, no questions asked, no return required. Same deal. I could see the throttle lever "hunting" a lot and decided that having no bushing in the carb hole end allowed too much "slop" for it to be happy, so ordered the only part I could find. That did not really fit well, seeming it would not snap on to the rod and not interfere with the range of motion. Kind of "mirror image" would seem right.
Anyway, that did not resolve the issue, so, ordered another After Market from another supplier, that also claimed to be for this engine. And a number of others, so . . .
It does the same thing. I find these carbs have two adjustment screws, one is fully exposed and appears to control idle speed, the other is "in" the carb and I suspect must be for "richness". Changing that screw seems to do nothing.
Suggestions? Other than "part it out", "cut your losses"? Well, I guess those are valid also, so fire away.
