CV461s 16 HP. New aftermarket carb, won't run correctly?

[joea99]

You know the carb off a SV singles will work right on the CV singles. Have uesd them on several occasions have one on a CV490 right now. Runs fine.

No, did not know that. Do you mean aftermarket carbs or "genuine Kohler" carbs? Any idea what will work on CV461s?

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

No, did not know that. Do you mean aftermarket carbs or "genuine Kohler" carbs? Any idea what will work on CV461s?

Can someone post a picture of this anti afterfire solenoid for this Kohler engine that is apparently so unique only to Kohler and maybe on this particular model number Kohler? Because if the darn solenoid is not working or even “fluttering”, I will bypass it. Probably disabled a dozen this year alone.

 

[hlw49]

No, did not know that. Do you mean aftermarket carbs or "genuine Kohler" carbs? Any idea what will work on CV461s?

Genuine Kohler never tried the AM.

 

[StarTech]

Can someone post a picture of this anti afterfire solenoid for this Kohler engine that is apparently so unique only to Kohler and maybe on this particular model number Kohler? Because if the darn solenoid is not working or even “fluttering”, I will bypass it. Probably disabled a dozen this year alone.

Well I don't one on the shelf for a reason. But is one from the net. Now the one use in this particular Nikki may not have the jet in the solenoid but in the carb. Either way it is the same setup. Now if the OP has a Walbro it uses a different solenoid. Later replacement carbs are usually using a more familiar solenoid design.

 

[305]

I don't have close to the knowledge as the other guys who replied to this post but I've had a similar experience with a generator.

I've used after market carbs, even the cheapest Chinese built carbs on the market on some of my equipment and they worked fine. I bought 3 after markets carbs for my generator and none fixed my problem rather made it worse. I finally spent 5 times the money to get an OEM carb and it solved the problem. It was available and in stock which sounds like yours is much harder to come by.

Anyway, good luck. I hope you get it figured out.

 

[bertsmobile1]

It is a one wire solenoid then you need a jumper from the block to the carb body to provide a sound ground connection
You can usually clean them out by spraying with carb cleaner then working the pin in & out
As with the others it is not one I am familiar with
In theory you should be able to replace any carb with another one but some are a lot harder to do
You have the throat size , main jet size, idle jet size and the leverage ratio between the throttle butterfly & the governor rotation plus the direction of the governor rotation to take into account
I have seen some where the hole in the lever on top of the butterfly had to be repositioned .
On some set ups the governor pushes to slow the engine while on others it has to push .

 

[V-Tran]

An overlooked problem is bad fuel especially if older than 30 days. Drain whatever fuel you have left over in the tank and dump what's in the gas can. Check tank for debris. Blow out the fuel lines with compressed air. Check petcock. Get fresh gas and retry.

 

[ruperthebare]

Hi, had exactly the same problem, ended up replacing new aftermarket carb with original, replaced float and inlet needle from (new) and now runs fine again. See my most recent post for details

 

[Hoagie12]

Sears/Craftsman LT1000 model 917.272061 with Kohler CV461s. As I inherited a JD 240GT I was going to sell the LT1000 as "Ran fine when parked". But, in a fit of "conscience", I found it would not start, even on starter fluid. Pulled my ad.

Replaced coil and it would start and run on spritz can. Not getting gas. Found solenoid on carb to be stuck and would not free up.

Ordered and installed an Aftermarket Carb and fuel filter. It ran fine when started up, so embarked on more fixes. New Blades, Belt, an idler pulley and, having snapped it, the clutch actuator cable. Ah, Ready for Freddy.

Oops. Got about 5 feet and it started running rough then quit. See what having a conscience will do for you?

Fiddled around a bit and found it would run ok, but just a bit shy of "choke 100% off". But it was a bit finicky. As in not consistent.

They replaced the carb, no questions asked, no return required. Same deal. I could see the throttle lever "hunting" a lot and decided that having no bushing in the carb hole end allowed too much "slop" for it to be happy, so ordered the only part I could find. That did not really fit well, seeming it would not snap on to the rod and not interfere with the range of motion. Kind of "mirror image" would seem right.

Anyway, that did not resolve the issue, so, ordered another After Market from another supplier, that also claimed to be for this engine. And a number of others, so . . .

It does the same thing. I find these carbs have two adjustment screws, one is fully exposed and appears to control idle speed, the other is "in" the carb and I suspect must be for "richness". Changing that screw seems to do nothing.

Suggestions? Other than "part it out", "cut your losses"? Well, I guess those are valid also, so fire away.

 

[hlw49]

Blowing out the fuel line with compressed air may not work. just had one that the inside of the line had collapsed that you can blow air through but fuel could not run through it. Cut it open and it was totally collapsed. Replaced the line and cured the problem.