Cubcadet no power at all

[mgb1985]

Good morning
I have a XT1 42 Cubcadet lawn tractor and it just stopped running while mowing. So far I've confirmed that the battery, solenoid, spark plug all are good.
I installed a new starter and a ignition switch which didn't help fix the power issue. With all of that being done, there is still no power going past the solenoid. When I turn the key nothing happens and the little hours meter is blank. What do you suggest?
Is it possible to eliminate all of the safety switches and just hardwire the wiring harness? What issues could accur if I hardwired it?

 

[ILENGINE]

have you checked the fuse to make sure it is not blown. Normally located in the area of the battery on MTD products. Which could be clipped to the edge of the frame close to the starter solenoid.

Also you may want to click on your other thread that you starter earlier and hit the delete button at the bottom of your post so people don't start replying to both threads causing confusion

 

[mgb1985]

have you checked the fuse to make sure it is not blown. Normally located in the area of the battery on MTD products. Which could be clipped to the edge of the frame close to the starter solenoid.

Also you may want to click on your other thread that you starter earlier and hit the delete button at the bottom of your post so people don't start replying to both threads causing confusion

The fuse is fine. Both the battery and solenoid registered 12 volts so there fine, then replaced the starter and ignition switch and checked the spark plug and it's fine.But no power beyond the solenoid. What do you suggest?

 

[ILENGINE]

Just because a battery reads 12v doesn't mean it is good. And you mentioned that hour meter doesn't light up either so you are not getting power or not enough power to turn things on. Which wouldn't be related to starter or solenoid. You should also be able to feel or hear the fuel solenoid on the carb click when the key is turned on regardless of safety switches.

 

[mgb1985]

Just because a battery reads 12v doesn't mean it is good. And you mentioned that hour meter doesn't light up either so you are not getting power or not enough power to turn things on. Which wouldn't be related to starter or solenoid. You should also be able to feel or hear the fuel solenoid on the carb click when the key is turned on regardless of safety switches.

Ok. I'm not hearing anything when I turn the key. I put a charge on the battery and it read charged, does that mean that the battery could still be bad?

 

[ILENGINE]

Need to get the battery load tested. I have worked on several over the years that would read 12v but would drop to 0 when a load was applied.

 

[StarTech]

It is same when doing voltage tests as it must be done under load.

With ignition wiring where you can get to it check the "B" terminal for voltage. Then put the switch in run position and check for voltage on the "A1" terminal. IF no voltage at :B" ternimal then there is problem before the ignition switch. IF voltage at "B" and not at "A1" with the switch in run position then either the switch is bad or the wiring terminal is loose.

 

[bertsmobile1]

A sudden stop is usually either a flat battery or bad connection battery to mower
The latter almost every time is the ground wire corroded through inside the insulation or just plain loose / fallen off at the engine / frame end .Once the battery & battery connections have been checked the next step is to check the fuse by replacing it.
For that I use plug in circuit breakers ( they are not robust enough for use full time on a mower ) .
IF the problem still persists then I check the wiring .

My method of wiring checks
1) get a circuit diagram
2) pull the key switch plug off and make the connections shown in the circuit diagram using short jumpers , NOT A BIT OF WIRE WITH EXPOSED ENDS .
Make some proper patch leads with terminals on the end
3) one by one pull the plugs off all the switches and make the connection with the jumpers

If you find a damaged plug with corrosion around the terminals / wires the potential culprit has been found .
IF when all the switches have been bypassed the problem remains then I use longer jumpers to run from plug to plug to locate the broken wire

 

[Fish]

Are you sure that you bought the correct keyswitch? They may look alike, but are wired differently.