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4 yr old cub cadet will not keep running , stops when I pull arms up or engage blades . Changed fuel pump, new carb new gas new filters and it still won’t stay running when I pull arms together or engage blades I am about ready to sell it and get something different. Kohler engine 24 hp 54” does a wonderful job but won’t stay running

mels cub cadet said:

4 yr old cub cadet will not keep running , stops when I pull arms up or engage blades . Changed fuel pump, new carb new gas new filters and it still won’t stay running when I pull arms together or engage blades I am about ready to sell it and get something different. Kohler engine 24 hp 54” does a wonderful job but won’t stay running

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Sounds like the operator presence switch is engaging when it shouldnt.

What is that….I am the operator and I am engaging so much I getting brain fog

Its the switch under the seat that shuts the engine off if there is no one in the seat. I have a ZT1 myself . they have been standard on all mowers since about the 80's . bypass it and see if that does it.

Thx so much..be nice if that was an easy fix..I will give it a try in the morning before it is 100 degrees outside

jearlc said:

Its the switch under the seat that shuts the engine off if there is no one in the seat. I have a ZT1 myself . they have been standard on all mowers since about the 80's . bypass it and see if that does it.

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It didn’t work .guess I need to take it in to get it fixed then buy a book on lawnmower repair . Was hoping to not have to spend the few hundreds of dollars and time but I need to mow. Thx a lot

If you were trying the short across the wires it wouldn't work as the seat is a dual pole NC/NC switch. AND the wiring connector contains a shorting strip so you can't simply unplug it either.

So what do I do I just unplugged it put seat down and it started then when I moved the arms together it died

StarTech said:

If you were trying the short across the wires it wouldn't work as the seat is a dual pole NC/NC switch. AND the wiring connector contains a shorting strip so you can't simply unplug it either.

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So what do I do..

I could tell you but as saying goes then I have to kill you. And just too tired to do it.

Beside it is a liability issue that I don't wish to deal with. Someone else here probably say it involves cutting a couple wires.

StarTech said:

I could tell you but as saying goes then I have to kill you. And just too tired to do it.

Beside it is a liability issue that I don't wish to deal with. Someone else here probably say it involves cutting a couple wires.

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I am not that knowledgeable so I will just take it to someone mon. Hopefully quick and not to pricey.thx appreciate your time and honesty

As mentioned the seat switch or the wiring to it is the prime suspect
BEcause of all of the 1/2 wits on You Tube showing people how to bypass the simple seat switch ( usually for the wrong reasons )
we got the switch you have after Husqvarna got successfully sued by an idiot who unpluged the old style switch
The seat switch is not expensive , easy to replace and do break over time so even if it is not the switch a spare one is handy to have .
Like most of the pros here do not tell how to bypass the seat switch as IMHO it is the only safety device that actually protects others from the owners stupidity / cheapness .
Every mower that comes in with the seat switch bypassed goes out with it activated
And of course once the bypass method becomes common knowledge Husqvarna will fit an even more complicated switch which makes my life even more difficult .
FWIW, I bought a couple of switch looms at enormous cost then I bypased the seat side of the plug so I can plug my dummy in for the purpose of diagnosing electrical problems .

Interesting and understood…still going to take it in to someone local.I am just tired of dealing with it.thx for your time and the info…appreciate it

No dramas
When you get it done please pop back and let us know how you went
Diagnosing electrical problems can take a long time so do not be surprised if there are a lot of hours billed .

bertsmobile1 said:

No dramas
When you get it done please pop back and let us know how you went
Diagnosing electrical problems can take a long time so do not be surprised if there are a lot of hours billed .

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Will do , have a friend looking at it tonight then if he can’t it will be off to the repair shop ….local people are nicer to deal with then in a larger city.. thx again ..

Got my lawnmower fixed, it was a loose wire on one of the arms.told by another to check the brake safety switch so my guy did. Hope that’s was all.hope this helps others ,thx

mels cub cadet said:

It didn’t work .guess I need to take it in to get it fixed then buy a book on lawnmower repair . Was hoping to not have to spend the few hundreds of dollars and time but I need to mow. Thx a lot

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did you replace the switch? does the engine die immediately when you engage the blades and or arms?

mels cub cadet said:

4 yr old cub cadet will not keep running , stops when I pull arms up or engage blades . Changed fuel pump, new carb new gas new filters and it still won’t stay running when I pull arms together or engage blades I am about ready to sell it and get something different. Kohler engine 24 hp 54” does a wonderful job but won’t stay running

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how old is battery had similar issue repair guy told me to get new battery problem solved you need power to make the mower engage

On many mowers that have a 4 prong flat connector, there is a shorting tab in the mowers end connector. You'll see little tabs if you look at it from the open side of the connector. If you put an ohmmeter from pi to pin, they'll all measure 0. It's been a while and I don't remember wither you will yank the shorting tab out from the open end or wire end. Try open end first. I got it out without damaging it, so it can be replaced after troubleshooting. Leave the switch unplugged while testing. Worse case, you could cut the connector off and reattach it later.

We have NOT PROVEN this is th problem. You guys simple believe it is at fault. How do we PROVE that is the fault?

I agree with is fan, check the battery voltage. The switch needs 12 volt to stay engaged

mels cub cadet said:

4 yr old cub cadet will not keep running , stops when I pull arms up or engage blades . Changed fuel pump, new carb new gas new filters and it still won’t stay running when I pull arms together or engage blades I am about ready to sell it and get something different. Kohler engine 24 hp 54” does a wonderful job but won’t stay running

Click to expand...

mels cub cadet said:

4 yr old cub cadet will not keep running , stops when I pull arms up or engage blades . Changed fuel pump, new carb new gas new filters and it still won’t stay running when I pull arms together or engage blades I am about ready to sell it and get something different. Kohler engine 24 hp 54” does a wonderful job but won’t stay running

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I had a Bad Boy that would blow fuses occasionally when pulling the right control arm backwards. There was a wire touching the frame that wore through, and it would short out. It took a while to find it.

Good to know.. I had been focused on the engine so much did t even realize that the arms had a lot to do…..just too busy to stop and think..but glad for everyone and a lawnmower guy close that had fb .
thx again

mels cub cadet said:

What is that….I am the operator and I am engaging so much I getting brain fog

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Try jumping a round the switch with you off the seat. See if it continues to run? Did you lose a bunch of weight in thw last 4 years?