Cub Cadet with Briggs and Stratton motor

[Forest#2]

I do have a few things going through my head though.

1. After I put the carb back on, it ran for a few minutes I was even able to move it. Had no power at all. So next morning I checked the valves and they were tight with no play so I adjusted them. Tried to run and in starting it I ended up with a small fire coming out of carb.

2. I am wondering if both coils (ignition modules) are firing. I have checked for spark and both have spark. My thought is if one is intermittent. When I pulled the plugs to adjust the valves I cleaned them and regapped them. The drivers side plug was almost closed. Now when I put it in the first time I gapped it right (not my first rodeo). After trying to start it yesterday I pulled the plugs again and passenger side was carboned up and drivers didn't even look like it fired.

Are you working (asking about) on the Kohler SV600 or the Briggs twin Intek now????
Just want to make sure.

If you can get that engine to run at all trying pulling each spark plug wire one at a time and compare the rpms' sag.
Let us know what you see?

But if you had a spark plug gapped correctly and then pulled the plug and the gap was closed, something is hitting the spark plug tip????????????????????

If you are asking about the Briggs twin OHV intek magnetos, you need to check good fire to both cylinders.
Each one of the kill wires going to each mag has a diode in the wire loom of each coil. these are isolation diodes, isolating one mag from the other.
It's a good thing to check these diodes and compare one to the other using a analog or DMM.

Is that still the OEM dual throat Nikki carb on the Briggs??
Have you been through the carb???
Is the kill wires going to the mags the OEM ones for the OHV Intek???

 

[garry6913]

Are you working (asking about) on the Kohler SV600 or the Briggs twin Intek now????

Still working on the Briggs. I was just saying the wire harness I used was Kohler.

 

[Forest#2]

Spark plug tip closing up after gapped correctly???
What is the number on the spark plugs you are installing???

 

[garry6913]

Spark plug tip closing up after gapped correctly???
What is the number on the spark plugs you are installing???

It only happened once. I probably didn't gap it. I think my problem is wrong gap in valves. I've set them to 4 thousandths and run engine and they are way out either too loose or too tight. I've spun the motor till the piston is all the way up. I think even though I do that it's not top dead center. I gapped them again and I noticed I can push the valve down with the feeler gauge throwing off my valve clearance.

 

[Forest#2]

Valve clearance is .004-.006.
After you set the valves (per page 23 and the specs in the last section of the manual) in the service manual leave the spark plugs out and crank over the engine with the starter few times and re-check.
The valve lash on the twin OHV is not as critical as the lash on the Single cylinder. (for running within reason)
The intake lash is main one to set the ex can be run little loose long enough to check the engine performance.
If a valves lash goes completely out of spec after cranking electrically you will need to closely inspect the rocker, etc for that valve for abnormal wear and that the rocker center stud is secure.
Them twin throat carbs are dogs and can cause all kinds of running issues, even a dead cylinder, spitting back thru the carb throat like valve timing, ignition timing ,etc.
If you get it running again leave the breather off and while it's running pay attention the the carb twin throats, they are isolated from each other.
If only one throat is spitting that is the side you need to check ON THE ENGINE FIRST for compression and valve lash. If the compression and valve lash is ok, it's most generally that side of the Nikki carb. (and when one side of the carb is bad it 's kind alike being just a little bit pregnant)
If one cylinder is dead when running and it has ignition, give that cylinders carb throat just just prime of gas while running and if it momentary picks up the carb is clogged on that side. The carbs are also know to flood on one side.
Watching carefully into the carb throat while the engine is running at medium speed and as you go from idle to high will give you lots of clues. When watching stay back far enough that a backfire will not take off your eyebrows.

 

[garry6913]

Valve clearance is .004-.006.
After you set the valves (per page 23 and the specs in the last section of the manual) in the service manual leave the spark plugs out and crank over the engine with the starter few times and re-check.
The valve lash on the twin OHV is not as critical as the lash on the Single cylinder. (for running within reason)
The intake lash is main one to set the ex can be run little loose long enough to check the engine performance.
If a valves lash goes completely out of spec after cranking electrically you will need to closely inspect the rocker, etc for that valve for abnormal wear and that the rocker center stud is secure.
Them twin throat carbs are dogs and can cause all kinds of running issues, even a dead cylinder, spitting back thru the carb throat like valve timing, ignition timing ,etc.
If you get it running again leave the breather off and while it's running pay attention the the carb twin throats, they are isolated from each other.
If only one throat is spitting that is the side you need to check.
If one cylinder is dead when running and it has ignition, give that cylinders carb throat just just prime of gas while running and if it momentary picks up the carb is clogged on that side. The carbs are also know to flood on one side.
Watching carefully into the carb throat while the engine is running at medium speed and as you go from idle to high will give you lots of clues. When watching stay back far enough that a backfire will not take off your eyebrow

Only manual I have is one with parts listed and ignition wire diagram and alternator with splicers.

 

[Forest#2]

Only manual I have is one with parts listed and ignition wire diagram and alternator with splicers.

Also re-read my above post where I did an edit.
I suspect this is a SERVICE manual for your rig. (paperback)
The CD version is cheaper but not as user friendly.
The carb section is not very good but lots of other good info.
Look up this listing number on flea bay. $18 free shipping from a 100% seller.
Most generally they are about $28
354910114410

 

[garry6913]

I am beginning to think I have 2 separate problems. After I adjusted valves again it sounded nice on trying to start. No backfire. It still wouldn't start. Had no spark now. Pulled flywheel again check key and flywheel. All good. Cleaned up flywheel from any residual rust. Put back together and tried to start it. Had spark this time and backfire through the carb and muffler again. About to take gas and a match to this damn thing.

 

[Forest#2]

Patience is your friend.
I sometimes have to let one rest for awhile, let brain clear and go back later.

Keep in mind that a sheared flywheel key normally will not cause loss of spark on your engine. You can move your Briggs flywheel to any position on the crankshaft not paying any attention to the key and it will still spark at the plugs, it just won't spark at the CORRECT TIME for a run.
No fire at BOTH spark plugs sometimes then when you do get ignition it backfires out BOTH the intake and the exhaust as it cranking AND THE VALVE LASH IS CORRECT for BOTH cylinders, you say????

Did you CAREFULLY pay attention to BOTH the carb throats as I suggested in post #75 WHILE IT'S CRANKING AND BACK FIRING? The CARB throats are isolated from each other is why I ask this. If you only see one throat backfiing that is a hint as to which side of the engine is upset.
If you watched, what did you see?
If not do such and give us the results?

Leave the kill wires disconnected from the bottom of BOTH OF THE MAGNETOS and crank, Be aware if it starts you will have to full choke to kill.
If it starts and runs one or both of the isolation diodes is bad in the magneto wire loom.

 

[garry6913]

Patience is your friend.
I sometimes have to let one rest for awhile, let brain clear and go back later.

Keep in mind that a sheared flywheel key normally will not cause loss of spark on your engine. You can move your Briggs flywheel to any position on the crankshaft not paying any attention to the key and it will still spark at the plugs, it just won't spark at the CORRECT TIME for a run.
No fire at BOTH spark plugs sometimes then when you do get ignition it backfires out BOTH the intake and the exhaust as it cranking AND THE VALVE LASH IS CORRECT for BOTH cylinders, you say????

Did you CAREFULLY pay attention to BOTH the carb throats as I suggested in post #75 WHILE IT'S CRANKING AND BACK FIRING? The CARB throats are isolated from each other is why I ask this. If you only see one throat backfiing that is a hint as to which side of the engine is upset.
If you watched, what did you see?
If not do such and give us the results?

Leave the kill wires disconnected from the bottom of BOTH OF THE MAGNETOS and crank, Be aware if it starts you will have to full choke to kill.
If it starts and runs one or both of the isolation diodes is bad in the magneto wire loom.

I did not. Like you said I am impatient. I am so tired of screwing with this thing. I do need to take a break from it. I will try it again on Wednesday (tomorrow going to bone yard and Tuesday supposed to rain). I will try to check the carb when I try to start it.

This motor hasn't sheared a flywheel key yet.

Valve lash should be good. I have done it many ways as seen on videos. Last time I did it (today) brought it TDC and spun it just till the intake (top valve) started to move. Backed it off a hair. Adjusted to 5 thousands. Spun around put back in same spot and rechecked. Kept doing that on all valves till it was the same every time. I did put it right at TDC as the top valve turned it back 1/4 turn. After adjusting and spinning the flywheel the push rod fell out cause it was so loose. That's when I did the above adjusting. The passenger side valves are tough to adjust. The rocker spins when you tighten it down. The valve can also move when pushing the feeler gauge in.