With the kill wire disconnected you can’t be shorting out the spark, so the most likely culprit for no spark is a defective coil. Could be a bad magnet/flywheel, but that’s got to be pretty rare. I’d bring the coil back to dealer and let him test it. Maybe put it on another machine in stock and see if it produces a spark.Okay I flipped the coil over and set a basic Gap. I had to make a longer wire for the kill switch. Still no spark. I disconnected the kill switch and attempted to start and still nothing. The coil is directly from my local Cub Cadet dealer.
I rotated the flywheel to the magnet points then used a feeler gauge to set gap. I think that's how it should be......?When you adjusted the coil gap did you rotate the engine to the contact point? That gap does not look right for the area shown in picture
I tried that early on...still, no spark / no run.Bend the kill switch arm away from the metal bracket when in the run position. It should then contact the other bracket point in the off position.
I think I've tried just about everything to get this to start. It ran like a champ originally, then after a few mowings, it would get harder to start, until eventually it just wouldn't, no matter how many attempts. Weird how each time leading up to this no start situation, it would take maybe 3-4 pulls, then next time it would be 7-8 pulls, then 12-15 then finally nothing...With the kill wire disconnected you can’t be shorting out the spark, so the most likely culprit for no spark is a defective coil. Could be a bad magnet/flywheel, but that’s got to be pretty rare. I’d bring the coil back to dealer and let him test it. Maybe put it on another machine in stock and see if it produces a spark.
I tried that...still nothing. Put a new coil on and still nothing. Wondering if new coil is faulty.Try disconnecting the ground wire from the deadman apparatus. If it starts, your problem is with the control cable, the ground wire or the assembly itself. I lean towards a failing coil, though. Good luck.