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Cub Cadet RZT LX 50 blowing fuses

#1

M

Madrebel

Need some help on this. Background story on this, I changed out the ignition switch several weeks ago with a cheap one from Amazon. Everything was fine for two yard cuttings. Next time I tried to start it, nothing. I didn’t even think about it being a fuse, bought another switch from local shop. Then it dawned on me about the fuse, sure enough it was blown. So I put a new 20A in and rock n roll. Finished cutting, turned it off, tried to start again and fuse is blown again. 🤦🏼‍♂️

So….I put the new switch in and another fuse and back in business again….but I’m skeptical.

Can a bad ignition switch cause this??

Any ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.


#2

R

Rivets

Yes it could be the problem, but you must first check to see if you have the correct switch. Remove both switches and look at the back of the switches. They may look the same, but you must check to see if the terminals are the same and located in the same position. Terminals are labeled.


#3

M

Madrebel

Rivets said:
Yes it could be the problem, but you must first check to see if you have the correct switch. Remove both switches and look at the back of the switches. They may look the same, but you must check to see if the terminals are the same and located in the same position. Terminals are labeled.
Click to expand...
Than’s for the reply. I just checked and on the back all 7 tabs are identical.


#4

R

Rivets

If all the terminals are labeled the same and in the same position, you are going to have to start looking for a frayed wire. Post the units model number from under the seat and we’ll see if we can find a wiring diagram. Also, do you have a VOM and know how to test for continuity?


#5

M

Madrebel

Rivets said:
If all the terminals are labeled the same and in the same position, you are going to have to start looking for a frayed wire. Post the units model number from under the seat and we’ll see if we can find a wiring diagram. Also, do you have a VOM and know how to test for continuity?
Click to expand...
I do not have one but I can get one later. It’s been about 20 years since I’ve used one.
I’ll get back with the model number. So you don’t think I could have gotten a bad switch? I did notice after the fact several buyers gave it a one star review and several had failed. I’m hoping that’s the problem.


#6

B

bertsmobile1

What Rivets is trying to warn you about is there are 2 totally different types of switches
The old & Standard switch has a ground wire on it and grounds the magneto to turn it off
Some newer styles use relays to do this so do not have a ground terminal
Both types use the same pin locations so will plug right in
Some mowers ground the alternator to use it as an engine brake
Others keep power to the rectifier all the time


#7

M

Madrebel

bertsmobile1 said:
What Rivets is trying to warn you about is there are 2 totally different types of switches
The old & Standard switch has a ground wire on it and grounds the magneto to turn it off
Some newer styles use relays to do this so do not have a ground terminal
Both types use the same pin locations so will plug right in
Some mowers ground the alternator to use it as an engine brake
Others keep power to the rectifier all the time
Click to expand...
Ok. I’ll post a pic of the model number later this morning like he suggested. Thanks!


#8

M

Madrebel

Madrebel said:
I do not have one but I can get one later. It’s been about 20 years since I’ve used one.
I’ll get back with the model number. So you don’t think I could have gotten a bad switch? I did notice after the fact several buyers gave it a one star review and several had failed. I’m hoping that’s the problem.
Click to expand...

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#9

M

Madrebel

Madrebel said:
Ok. I’ll post a pic of the model number later this morning like he suggested. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Serial number pic posted below.


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