Mower sat for a while (couple months). Took a while to get it started. Ran it once to cut lawn.
Sat for another week or so. Then wouldn't start at all.
I have replaced the following:
Carburetor
Gaskets
Air filter
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Spark plug (gapped)
Won't start, not enough information
Exactly what do you see , hear , feel & smell from the time you bum hits the seat and when your toe hurts from kicking it.
Engine turns over, but won't start. I don't recall smelling anything.
While the air filter cover was off, after replacing the carb, I could see fuel in the "tunnel" (whatever that thing is called) while attempting to start it.
I did verify fuel is flowing. I removed the fuel line from the carb and turned the key. Fuel flowed as expected.
Nothing is blocking the air intake.
The new carb is not exactly like the OEM because I can't find the OEM version. The mower is a 2007 that had a Walbro carb (LMT, I think). The OEM had a single wire coming off the solenoid. The new one has a wiring harness that is not keyed to indicate the "correct way." I have no idea what the solenoid is supposed to do or if the position of the wiring harness matters. But, I do hear the solenoid click when the key is turned to the run position.
Fuel solenoid is spring loaded closed
So take it out and turn the key on & off.
Most are not polarised so the wires can go either way round
I use a 9V square transistor battery ( often found in multimeters as well ) to check suspect solenoids
They come in 2 ways
1 wire for carbs that have a good ground ( metal manifold )
2 wire for carbs that are electrically isolated from the mower
The solenoid blocks off the main jet ( some times idle jet as well ) so no fuel gets sucked through the carb after you turn it off .
Check you have a spark at the plugs
Put a tiny amount of fuel dowwn the plug hole, replace the plug & crank the engine
Let us know what happens
#5
Scrubcadet10
fuel sitting in the intake, if you ask me, is indicative of a float needle issue... of course with a new carb that should not be so... have you checked your engine oil, and smelled of it? be sure there is no gas smell to it.
Kohler plus is showing the Carb part number as being 20 853 33-S
which has one red positive connector on the carb solenoid, and a green ground wire from the carb body that goes to ground on a shroud screw.
Will it fire up if you spray starting fluid directly into the carburetor via the air box.. (remove the filter and spray directly in the carb "venturi"?
Take the air cleaner off and spray a little gum out carb cleaner and see if it fires on it. I worked on a mower for a lady and the fuel shut off solenoid was bad. Replace it got it running she took it home and mower her yard one time came back and was upset that it did not run said she didn't want to spend any more money on it. Kind of insinuated it was my fault. OK gave her the benefit of the doubt. Checked it out found a mouse had chewed the coil wire completely in two. Worse one I have ever seen. I fixed it with a used ign module and very little labor and told her she would need to take care of her mouse problem. Oh yes I forgot to mention I got quite a large mouse nest out of the engine the first time I worked on it. So check to see if a mouse might have eaten the coil wire.
There is no spark at the spark plug. Never tested spark before. I pulled the plug, re-connected the plug wire, and connected a ground strap to the plug. No spark. Is that a good method?
Do I need to replace the ignition coil?
There is no spark at the spark plug. Never tested spark before. I pulled the plug, re-connected the plug wire, and connected a ground strap to the plug. No spark. Is that a good method?
Do I need to replace the ignition coil?
There are a number of things to verify before replacing the coils. each coil has one high tension lead and either one or two small wires. If only one, usually black, remove it and test for spark. If you now have spark, the harness and interlocks are the fault or switches. IF each coil has two small wires, you need more assistance and identification of type of ignition.
By trying the start the engine. If it starts up then you must either choke the engine to death, shut the fuel supply, or pull the spark plug lead to stop the engine.
The white wire isa ground connection so it is either ground ( no spark ) or open ( engine running ) .
So you check the MOWERS wiring by removing that white wire which creates an open circuit ( engine running ) connection for the coil.
No spark usually means the coil is shot
The unidentified thing the green wire goes to is the oil sending unit. On some units with the sending unit the oil light will flash when it is time to change the oil and flash for 2 hours and go out on its own. Yes remove the white wire and check for spark. If it sparks the problem is in the safety system on the tractor.
ok here are some things I have run into in this kind of situation brake switch and pto switch. U say pto switch how would that stop it from starting. The start circuit goes through the pto switch so you can't start it with the pto engaged. With pto engaged it opens the start circuit and with it disengage it closes the start circuit so it will start.
As previously mentioned, I had replaced nearly everything relating to fuel and spark on the Kohler engine - carb, fuel pump, fuel and air filter, spark plug, and ignition coil. I even corrected the lash of the valves. And, because the engine still would not start, I took it to a shop.
Come to find out, when I replaced/re-installed the ignition coil, I didn't install it close enough to the fly wheel. Its gap was too great to create spark. I should have, but didn't know that was a thing. Shop tech said it fired right up after setting the right gap. DOH!
