Export thread

I am now in the process of working on the deck the Cub Cadet 1600 that was given to me. I have been heating the blade nuts and squirting PB Blaster on them and still cannot get them loose. I am now considering just cutting them loose with a Moto-Tool. I do not want to beat them with a maul because I think the spindles are still ok. Any suggestions? The deck has been repaired by welding which I intend to grind off and patch with heavy sheet metal on both sides.

jross,keep soaking them with PBlaster and if you have an air impact wrench then you should have no problem getting them off...russ

173abn said:

jross,keep soaking them with PBlaster and if you have an air impact wrench then you should have no problem getting them off...russ

Click to expand...

When I was younger and couldn't afford an air impact wrench, I had pretty good success at breaking loose rusted fittings by using a SNUG fitting wrench and a section of pipe slipped over the wrench, or whacking the free end of the wrench with a section of 2X4. It also helps the penetrating oil soak into the threads if you tap on the head of the bolt or side of the nut with a plactic tip hammer, the vibration helps the oil soak in.

Does anyone know if they happen to be left handed threads ?

BKBrown said:

Does anyone know if they happen to be left handed threads ?

Click to expand...

Looking down at the blades, they rotate in a counter clockwise direction, indicating they are right hand threads.

if you don't have an air impact wrench then agreed a "helper " is your best bet.try using a box end wrench and liberal amts. of the blaster. russ

BKBrown said:

Does anyone know if they happen to be left handed threads ?

Click to expand...

I don't think Cub Cadet ever did that ... there are some others that have...
Impact wrench will get it like russ suggests ..:smile:KennyV

It was that same job that caused me to go down to Harbor Freight and get a Chicago 1/2" electric impact wrench ten years ago. The blade nuts came right off and I've been using it ever since for this, and for rotating tires on various vehicles. If you don't have an air compressor it's a good and cheap way to get the job done. Lots of good reviews on that product, it's one of their better items.

Definitely a standard thread on those. Counter-clockwise to remove.

BTW I got the first blade nut off by jamming a wood scrap between the blade and the deck to prevent rotation, then I hit the handle of a huge Crescent wrench with a rubber mallet. It cost nothing and it worked, but I didn't see myself doing that forever so I sprang for the HF wrench.

Impact gun is the best way.....If you dont want to buy one, just take it to a local garage to get them off.....Then from now on, make sure they are taken off every year to keep them undoable...(is that a word?)

Good advice above with impact wrench, I put never-seize on threads and also where the washer on the nut contacts the blade. That will help you the next time. Also I wouldn't put the nuts on with the impact.

glennsjr said:

Also I wouldn't put the nuts on with the impact.

Click to expand...

But what if I'm selling the mower to someone I don't like? :biggrin: Cub says 70-100 ft. lbs. of torque for reinstallation, which translates to "fairly darned tight" using the TLAR (that looks about right) method.

poncho62 said:

Impact gun is the best way.....If you dont want to buy one, just take it to a local garage to get them off.....Then from now on, make sure they are taken off every year to keep them undoable...(is that a word?)

Click to expand...

The closest Websters comes to that word "undoable" is "undouble"....close enough, we get your meaning.....:thumbsup:

Jetblast said:

But what if I'm selling the mower to someone I don't like? :biggrin: Cub says 70-100 ft. lbs. of torque for reinstallation, which translates to "fairly darned tight" using the TLAR (that looks about right) method.

Click to expand...

90-95 foot-pounds is about what the torque for most lug nuts is for cars...if that helps.

I use a 24" long 1/2" drive breaker bar to remove and install. Use an old 2x4 to block the blade. I don't go crazy when tightening. Just good and snug, ease off, then one quick pull to get a little 'creak' telling me it's tight enough.

I agree with the other post about just taking it somewhere to get the nuts busted loose. Throw the deck in the pickup, go to a tire shop even, they should be able to take care of you.

Lisle Impact Tool Set (3/8 inch Drive) - A specialty tool with bark and bite! - 3/8" Hand Impact Tool Set - Epinions.com

Link to Hand Impact Tool review -- by Lisle

I had one at one time, but I guess one of the renters I had years ago liked the tool :frown: -
only problem I see is that it is 3/8" drive and not 1/2", but the one I had was sturdy enough to handle large 3/8" drive sockets. The hammer strike and torque at the same time sometimes worked better than an impact wrench.

I haven't done enough research to find one similar in 1/2"

Air OR electric Impact is best ... BUT if you can block the blade and get a good shot at it with one of these...
Impact Screwdriver Set with Case
This will also work... just not as well . :smile:KennyV

Got em off with my friends Dewalt impact gun. Unfortunately I used it to remove the spindle bolts , most of which broke off. Some MTD spindles appear to be identical to the 1600 Cub Cadet spindle. Could they be interchanged?

jross said:

Got em off with my friends Dewalt impact gun. Unfortunately I used it to remove the spindle bolts , most of which broke off. Some MTD spindles appear to be identical to the 1600 Cub Cadet spindle. Could they be interchanged?

Click to expand...

Good deal. The only thing better than having an impact wrench, boat, or country cabin is having a friend with an impact wrench, boat, or country cabin.

As long as the mounting bolt patterns, shaft lengths and diameters, and pulley mounting heights above the deck spec out just like the spindles you're replacing, I don't see why not. Buying from someone with a fair return policy would be good insurance just in case you miss something.

Short Version: A few messages up from here, "glennsjr" said don't use the impact wrench to reinstall the blade nuts. Good advice.

Long Version: I just swapped out my stock high-lift blades for Oregon Gator 3-in-1 blades, and since laying under the mower with the front end up in the air wasn't feeling good on my creaky joints, I decided I'd use my electric impact wrench to tighten the blade nuts up just until they barely seated, then torque them tighter from there. That was a mistake because they all ended up way too tight. I'm sure I could do it better given another shot, but I'd have to rely on eyeballs more than feel.

The upshot was this. During normal installation you can hit recommended torque with hand tools just by holding the blades from turning with your other hand and get it done quick-like, however after screwing this up I had use a piece of wood between the blades and the deck to get them loosened enough so that I could torque them up correctly. Getting the wood in the right spot for each blade and turning the nut means using both hands, while laying on the back, and it took more time in the jungle than I'd have liked. I might as well have dropped and flipped the "Super Easy To Remove Deck" It's easy to remove, but reinstalling it is like landing a fighter on an aircraft carrier at night when you desperately need to go to the bathroom.

Off topic, but Jetblast -- I like your avatar

:biggrin:

That's a beautiful dog, BK. I wouldn't shoot that dog even it was attacking my private parts.:biggrin: (inside joke)

That must be an inside joke !
Didn't mean to hijack the thread - maybe we need a "Pets" thread ? or a Cats thread and Dogs thread !

Jetblast said:

That's a beautiful dog, BK. I wouldn't shoot that dog even it was attacking my private parts.:biggrin: (inside joke)

Click to expand...

IT COULD HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS

TRY TO LOOSEN IT THAT WAY AS U MAY BE TRYING TO TIGHTEN IT INSTEAD OF LOOSENING IT.

jross said:

Got em off with my friends Dewalt impact gun. Unfortunately I used it to remove the spindle bolts , most of which broke off. Some MTD spindles appear to be identical to the 1600 Cub Cadet spindle. Could they be interchanged?

Click to expand...

Most likely will interchange with a lot of them...
UN fortunately many of the throw away spindles used today are installed with self taping bolts... BIG mistake to use those... they are going to break off when you try to remove them... You will be better off doing it like they use to and still do on serviceable spindles ... Drill holes through it and attach using BOLTs LOCK Washers & NUTs... little more work to do it right BUT a LOT easier to remove if you have to... :smile:KennyV

They are NOT left-handed threads...Impact is the answer, use a 6 point 15/16"socket 1/2"drive. Good Luck!

Yep, a 15/16" six point impact socket is the best answer, IMHO. I slobber Never-Seize on the male threads at reassembly time, torque the thing to 80 lbs-ft., and then apply some more never sieze on the nut and any exposed threads on the spindle. The never sieze seems to slow down the inevitable "grass welding" that goes on under mower decks.:biggrin: