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Cub Cadet LT1045 Won't Start
#1
S
steind1
S
steind1
I have a cub cadet LT1045 (2007) and the engine won't start. It won't even crank. Just put in a new battery and I have lights but when turning the key all it does is make a whistle sound. All wiring visually is ok and oil is full. Have any ideas why it might not start?
#2
L
Lawnranger
L
Lawnranger
This was put together by a few forum members and might help. Let us know how you are doing.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#3
K
Kirby
I did not have any power on either one of the small terminals, also no power on the other large terminal while turning the key switch.
There was also no power on the hot lead leading to the starter. I just replaced the solenoid on my mower, could it have gone out again? Also what could be causing the failure of the solenoid? It was running good and when i turned it off by the key it would not restart.
K
Kirby
This was put together by a few forum members and might help. Let us know how you are doing.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
I did not have any power on either one of the small terminals, also no power on the other large terminal while turning the key switch.
There was also no power on the hot lead leading to the starter. I just replaced the solenoid on my mower, could it have gone out again? Also what could be causing the failure of the solenoid? It was running good and when i turned it off by the key it would not restart.
#4
reynoldston
reynoldston
I have said this before. You need a wiring diagram to trouble shoot electrical problems. You follow this diagram like a road map till you find your dead-end road. Other then that you are just guessing.
#5
K
Kirby
K
Kirby
Would you happen to have a link or know where i can go to get a wiring diagram for a 2009 lt1045?
#6
D
dcmjcook
Were you able to find a wiring diagram? I am looking for a wirning diagram for a model 1525. I found a wiring diagram for a 1045 on Google searcing for "electrical schematic 1525".
one of the google search returns listed pictures of various cub cadet schematic drawings. One of those drawings popped up a dialog box that said the diagram was for a 1045.
I was able to download a service manual from the Cub Cadet web site. That manual was for 1000/1500 Series Riding Tractors. THe manual did not have any electrical schematics. The manual listed step by step electrical trouble shooting items with pictures. the steps listed match what the 1045 schematic indicates.
Did replacing the PTO switch fig your problem?
Don
D
dcmjcook
I have said this before. You need a wiring diagram to trouble shoot electrical problems. You follow this diagram like a road map till you find your dead-end road. Other then that you are just guessing.
Were you able to find a wiring diagram? I am looking for a wirning diagram for a model 1525. I found a wiring diagram for a 1045 on Google searcing for "electrical schematic 1525".
one of the google search returns listed pictures of various cub cadet schematic drawings. One of those drawings popped up a dialog box that said the diagram was for a 1045.
I was able to download a service manual from the Cub Cadet web site. That manual was for 1000/1500 Series Riding Tractors. THe manual did not have any electrical schematics. The manual listed step by step electrical trouble shooting items with pictures. the steps listed match what the 1045 schematic indicates.
Did replacing the PTO switch fig your problem?
Don
#8
gfp55
go to google images, put in {wire harness cub cadet lt1045} hit enter, bingo
gfp55
Were you able to find a wiring diagram? I am looking for a wirning diagram for a model 1525. I found a wiring diagram for a 1045 on Google searcing for "electrical schematic 1525".
one of the google search returns listed pictures of various cub cadet schematic drawings. One of those drawings popped up a dialog box that said the diagram was for a 1045.
I was able to download a service manual from the Cub Cadet web site. That manual was for 1000/1500 Series Riding Tractors. THe manual did not have any electrical schematics. The manual listed step by step electrical trouble shooting items with pictures. the steps listed match what the 1045 schematic indicates.
Did replacing the PTO switch fig your problem?
Don
go to google images, put in {wire harness cub cadet lt1045} hit enter, bingo
#9
K
Kirby
K
Kirby
Were you able to find a wiring diagram? I am looking for a wirning diagram for a model 1525. I found a wiring diagram for a 1045 on Google searcing for "electrical schematic 1525".
one of the google search returns listed pictures of various cub cadet schematic drawings. One of those drawings popped up a dialog box that said the diagram was for a 1045.
I was able to download a service manual from the Cub Cadet web site. That manual was for 1000/1500 Series Riding Tractors. THe manual did not have any electrical schematics. The manual listed step by step electrical trouble shooting items with pictures. the steps listed match what the 1045 schematic indicates.
Did replacing the PTO switch fig your problem?
Don[/QUOTE
Yes the bad switch repaired my 1045, and it ran fine for about a month, but now its down again. It turns over this time but will not start. just constantly turns over until the battery runs down.
#10
M
mechanic mark
Pages 84-86 are wiring diagrams. Look online at sears multimeters and go purchase an inexpensive one. Next print out wiring diagram and follow step by step instructions in troubleshooting section starting at page 71. Believe me, you'll be glad you did when you locate the problem, plus your multimeter will serve you well for years to come.
.
M
mechanic mark
Pages 84-86 are wiring diagrams. Look online at sears multimeters and go purchase an inexpensive one. Next print out wiring diagram and follow step by step instructions in troubleshooting section starting at page 71. Believe me, you'll be glad you did when you locate the problem, plus your multimeter will serve you well for years to come.
.
#11
D
dcmjcook
D
dcmjcook
Mechanic Mark,
I have been working a starting issue with my series 1525.
I have found the schematic drawings, but their resolution is very poor. So poor that I can not read the colors for the wires. There are three different electrical schematics. Page 84 does not show an RMC it shows a relay and a monitor, Page 85 has an RMC module and a relay. Page 86 has an RMC, a relay and a starter with the solenoid in the starter. Both P85 and 86 show a set of wires going to the position of the monitor shown on page 84 but noi mention of a monitor. I am know thinking that the item I thought was the RMC module is in fact the relay. I do not think my series 1525 has an RMC on it.
I need to figure out how to check the relay and the wires coming to it to determine why the relay was getting out; why the mower will start with the relay pulled out; why the mower will not turn the PTO on when the rely is out.
I appologize for taking so long to reply. I had back issues and had one of those microscope surgeries to trim a bulging disk and remove spurs that had been pressing on the main nerve to my leg and feet. I am improving and walking ever well. I am still not allowed to bend over. Working on the lawn mower is on hold.
I will send another note after the doctor clears me to crawl around on the ground again.
Thanks again for replying to my posts. I appreciate your input.
Don
I have been working a starting issue with my series 1525.
I have found the schematic drawings, but their resolution is very poor. So poor that I can not read the colors for the wires. There are three different electrical schematics. Page 84 does not show an RMC it shows a relay and a monitor, Page 85 has an RMC module and a relay. Page 86 has an RMC, a relay and a starter with the solenoid in the starter. Both P85 and 86 show a set of wires going to the position of the monitor shown on page 84 but noi mention of a monitor. I am know thinking that the item I thought was the RMC module is in fact the relay. I do not think my series 1525 has an RMC on it.
I need to figure out how to check the relay and the wires coming to it to determine why the relay was getting out; why the mower will start with the relay pulled out; why the mower will not turn the PTO on when the rely is out.
I appologize for taking so long to reply. I had back issues and had one of those microscope surgeries to trim a bulging disk and remove spurs that had been pressing on the main nerve to my leg and feet. I am improving and walking ever well. I am still not allowed to bend over. Working on the lawn mower is on hold.
I will send another note after the doctor clears me to crawl around on the ground again.
Thanks again for replying to my posts. I appreciate your input.
Don
#12
M
mechanic mark
M
mechanic mark
Post # 7 mtd pages 84-86 wiring diagram for 1525 kaw. 15 hp year 2003.Were you able to find a wiring diagram? I am looking for a wirning diagram for a model 1525. I found a wiring diagram for a 1045 on Google searcing for "electrical schematic 1525".
one of the google search returns listed pictures of various cub cadet schematic drawings. One of those drawings popped up a dialog box that said the diagram was for a 1045.
I was able to download a service manual from the Cub Cadet web site. That manual was for 1000/1500 Series Riding Tractors. THe manual did not have any electrical schematics. The manual listed step by step electrical trouble shooting items with pictures. the steps listed match what the 1045 schematic indicates.
Did replacing the PTO switch fig your problem?
Don[/QUOTE
Yes the bad switch repaired my 1045, and it ran fine for about a month, but now its down again. It turns over this time but will not start. just constantly turns over until the battery runs down.
#13
P
Paul19
P
Paul19
I need a diagram photo of the wiring ignition switch 7 terminal dont know what wires goes where
#14
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Back of the switch is marked
B Battery
G Ground
S Start
L Lights
M Magneto
A Alternator
B Battery
G Ground
S Start
L Lights
M Magneto
A Alternator