Export thread

When I bought a used LT1024, it initially hesitated to turn over but I thought the battery was just weak since it was a cold day and the tractor hadn't been used since the summer. I've only had it start once since then. Flywheel makes 1-3 revolutions but seems to be too much pressure to keep it turning. Voltage at battery and solenoids reads 12.5. After I adjusted the valve gaps to .004 it seems to make a few more revolutions but now I hear air releasing on each revolution. I also tried to jump the starter but it still only turns 1 - 3 revolutions. Thoughts?

clarkmti said:

When I bought a used LT1024, it initially hesitated to turn over but I thought the battery was just weak since it was a cold day and the tractor hadn't been used since the summer. I've only had it start once since then. Flywheel makes 1-3 revolutions but seems to be too much pressure to keep it turning. Voltage at battery and solenoids reads 12.5. After I adjusted the valve gaps to .004 it seems to make a few more revolutions but now I hear air releasing on each revolution. I also tried to jump the starter but it still only turns 1 - 3 revolutions. Thoughts?

Click to expand...

Try easy things 1st.
Is there too much oil in engine and smells like fuel? If yes then needle in carb leaking and engine hydrauliced.
Is there a parasitic load on the engine (belt etc) causing engine to stop turning?
What engine fitted?
If a B & S then worst case is the decompressor on the end of the camshaft is broken and not allowing engine to turn past the compression cycle of the engine.

has not been used for 3 years, only cranks a few times then seems to choke.
Sounds like you need to rename the Cub, Hilton because some thing has decided your exhaust will make a perfect place to live.
with the rocker box removed watch where in the cycle the engine chokes.
If before or during compression stroke then it is the decompressor
If it is during the exhaust then it is a blocked exhaust .
Be a little careful if you mower has become a wild life refuge as some of the things ( wasps ) take umbrage at you busting up their home and a hasty retreat while lying on your back with your arms entangled in the mowers innards becomes a little difficult.

gang - thanks for the feedback. Just a bit more information: when I first brought the tractor home it was cranking fairly well but sounded like it was almost back-firing or missing - barely getting it started regardless of the choke or throttle setting. However, I can no longer get but 1 or 2 revolutions - far too short, I think, to have a fuel mixture problem. I never get to that point. One additional note; I did pick up about 3 additional revolutions or so once I corrected the valve gap. I'm thinking maybe I set the exhaust gap too small (.004) and that's why I'm hearing air during the cranking??

ISeries Riding Tractor Shop Manual Post engine manufacturer as well as all numbers from engine, thanks. Also, how did you adjust valves, procedure?

When posting please include engine make as well as all numbers from engine, thanks. This is procedure for B&S engines:Engine cold, remove spark plugs & valve covers, rotate engine clockwise by hand until screwdriver is all the way out then rotate 1/4" inches more & check rocker arms by hand, both should be loose & parallel to one another if you are on correct stroke, if not keep rotating until they are so, you are now ready to adjust valves. If manual says 0.004-0.006 adjust both intake & exhaust valves for this cylinder to 0.005 using feeler gauge. Loosen locknut & insert 0.005 feeler gauge between rocker arm & rocker shaft & tighten set screw slowly until you feel a slight drag on feeler gauge while moving gauge between rocker arm & rocker shaft, if you feel a slight drag on 0.005 gauge by removing & reinstalling 2 or 3 times adjustment is correct. Hold setscrew firmly while snugging up locknut, sometimes your manual will have torque of locknut. Recheck with feeler gauge after snugging locknut, sometimes set screw will tighten up when snugging locknut that's why you need to recheck with feeler gauge after snugging locknut, this procedure calls for patience.

Thanks for the reference. This was my first attempt at setting valve gaps. Followed several youtube videos. Based upon the first video I watched, I placed a screwdriver into the spark plug chamber and hand turned the flywheel until the screwdriver was pushed out of the engine the most. I then loosened the set star nut and tightened the outer nut until the .004 feeler gauge was snug. I believe I reversed the process ok because it seemed to keep the gap. Engine wouldn't turn any more than before. I watched several other videos that suggested that I need to set the gap on the free rocker, which can only happen when the other one rocker is completely compressed. So I tried that approach. I had better results but not enough force to keep it cranking. However, I do hear the sound of air when it tries to turn over now.

In the morning I was going to follow the early post and see if I can tell whether the revolutions stop on the compression or the exhaust stroke.

Problem is fixed and tractor works great now. I'm really embarrassed to say that I've only worked on one small engine - a 1 cylinder 15hp Kohler. I didn't realize the new tractor I bought was a Twin V and has a second set of value gaps to adjust. One of those was way too close and, after adjusting, tractor starts fine.

Thanks for all the help and sorry for being so stupid........:laughing:

clarkmti said:

Problem is fixed and tractor works great now. I'm really embarrassed to say that I've only worked on one small engine - a 1 cylinder 15hp Kohler. I didn't realize the new tractor I bought was a Twin V and has a second set of value gaps to adjust. One of those was way too close and, after adjusting, tractor starts fine.

Thanks for all the help and sorry for being so stupid........:laughing:

Click to expand...

Not stupid at all, most folks will not even attempt adjusting valves, afraid of messing up, think it's too complicated, it is very important to check and adjust valves on B&S engines every 250 hrs., pat yourself on the back, well done. By the way, post model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx from engine sticker or data plate, thanks.