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My brother in law has cub cadet and it is getting slower and slower.
The engine starts and runs very well.
is this a transmition problem or clutch or other problem
any ideas please?

What model CC is it?
They made shaft driven gear & hydro drives...
And belt drives... :smile:KennyV

Yes, we'll need a little more information. If it is a hydro model, check your transmission oil level. If it is a belt driven model, check your belts and pulleys for wear, as well as any tensioning springs, etc. If you have an electric clutch, check it for slippage.:wink:

The adjustment of the hydro is time consuming easy adjustment . Make sure hydro fluid is filled to the top and your belt that runs the cooling fan is ok . Your brake adjustment should be checked also . Same type of spring threaded double bolt set up . Might be dragging ?
Remember it is easy to adjust the system but it is turn the bolt and spring, lock the bolt, drive it - some machines that come into our repair shop just do not have the ground speed anymore .
Mostly caused by never cleaning the piles of dead grass sitting on the rear axle - it is air cooled too and owners neglect to keep the engine, deck,rear axle clean .

The pump in your hydro transmision could be worn out. I have an older craftsman with a hydrogear hydro transmision. Mine doesn't go as fast as it used to, even with a new belt, and the oil is full. It makes this really loud, deep whining noise when the clutch is let out and driving. It doesn't seem to be losing power or anything it just doesn't go as fast as it used to. Keep in mind though, this tractor has see a lot of abuse, lots. This tracotr is used off road and towing, i mean towing big, heavy logs and stuff, and up hills too. If anyone has any input, i would like to hear it. Thanks.

I don't think that it is Hydro drive.
The lawn tractor has a rod that is connected to the foot pedal going back under the frame to the transmition.
I think that this has some sort of clutch arrangement in the transmition underneath.
I dont think that it has a belt drive either.
I am not an expert with this mower by means!
All i know is that the harder you push down on the pedal it just plods along now and will sometimes
spring into a little more speed.
Does this mean the transmition has to be rebuilt?
Any ideas would be great.

CUB CADET RUNNING VERY SLOW

I just found this posting about Cub Cadet transmition clutch issues and shimming SOLUTION from another site.
See below, does anyone know if this cheep fix really works out well?
Interesting!

My local dealer who quoted $600 to fix this problem. His solution was to replace the whole assembly. I finally spoke with someone at Cub Cadet tech support and they told me how to fix it wit $5 worth of parts!
The solution is to remove the frame cover (6 bolts) to get access to the top of the cluth assembly. The clutch assembly has a cover on on the top rear. If you remove this cover (3 bolts) you will see a bearing. The clearance between the outer race of this bearing and the cover (put straight edge against it shuold be 2/1000 - 7/1000. If it is not your clutch will slip. To fix it buy some $2 shims (washers). The part numbers are
736-3126 - Washer, flat, 1.25 x 1.8 x 0.005
736-3127 - Washer, flat, 1.25 x 1.8 x 0.010
736-3104 - Washer, flat, 1.25 x 1.8 x 0.015
736-3105 - Washer, flat, 1.25 x 1.8 x 0.020
736-3106 - Washer, flat, 1.25 x 1.8 x 0.025
736-3107 - Washer, flat, 1.25 x 1.8 x 0.062

Once you have these remove the bearing. Press on the forward pedal to help push it out and then pull it the of the way. I did this with a bent heavy paper clip. Insert the proper washers to get back within spec (2/1000 - 7/1000), insert the bearing and put the cover back on.
If the spacing is to small (< 2/1000) then the tractor may creep when idling in 1st gear. Other than that you shuold be in good shape!

I assume this will work on any cub cadet lawn tractor with auto-gear transmission.

Don't listen to these posts, beacuse they have no idea, and probably have over 10,000 posts a month. Okay what you need to do is remove the engine drive pulley that connect to a shaft attached to the brake lever. This pulleu (s) keep tension on the drive belt. This plate is attached to the frame via, a bolts that has a brass bushin in it. It is rusted tight, so the full tension is not applied when the brake lever is release, Clean it, put the should bolt in acid for a few minutes, lube it and back together.

mwhitnell said:

Don't listen to these posts, beacuse they have no idea, and probably have over 10,000 posts a month. Okay what you need to do is remove the engine drive pulley that connect to a shaft attached to the brake lever. This pulleu (s) keep tension on the drive belt. This plate is attached to the frame via, a bolts that has a brass bushin in it. It is rusted tight, so the full tension is not applied when the brake lever is release, Clean it, put the should bolt in acid for a few minutes, lube it and back together.

Click to expand...

#1 This thread is almost nine years old and the OP stated that he has already received a message from Cub Cadet how to fix the problem.

2# The autogear Cub Cadets (2000 Series) are horizontal engine, shaft drive. There is no drive belt or pulleys.

My lord you just posted to a nine year thread. If the OP hasn't fix by now it probably won't get fix......

Don’t be hard on a new guy trying to help, not everyone is used to how the threads are dated.

mwhitnell said:

Don't listen to these posts, beacuse they have no idea, and probably have over 10,000 posts a month. Okay what you need to do is remove the engine drive pulley that connect to a shaft attached to the brake lever. This pulleu (s) keep tension on the drive belt. This plate is attached to the frame via, a bolts that has a brass bushin in it. It is rusted tight, so the full tension is not applied when the brake lever is release, Clean it, put the should bolt in acid for a few minutes, lube it and back together.

Click to expand...

its okay, we all know your trying to help, and by the looks of it you have a good amount of knowledge to help the pros on here, but if the thread hasn't been active in over a couple months, don't bother replying to it, and if you don't know how to tell where/ how old the thread is, its okay ill tell you

if you look at the top of any bodys post ( on the thread ) if you look just about an 1/4 of an inch on top of their "statement" and you will see something like this (just an example): "Yesterday at 10:46 AM"
and that date and time will be in a light grey.
if the most recent date and time is over about an month old, don't worry about replying to it

and theres also a way to see when the thread started ( date )
if yo scroll all the way to the top you will see the title of the thread in bold black letters
and for this thread it says, "cub cadet engine is running very slow but engine is good."
then once again about an 1/4 an inch under that you will see a forum username in light grey, and that name will be the person that started the thread.
and right next to that ( in light grey words ) you will see a little clock symbol with a date next to it, and that date of course is the date that this thread was started.
so for this thread it says
nigelbb Aug 14, 2011


and thats how yo figure out dates and times ?

now remember, when your viewing a thread that you're about to reply to, remember what i have said before you reply.


-logan

Sorry I came off a little rough but he has been a member since 2014 so I would think he would know by how the system works.

noooooooooooo, you didn't come on rough, i actually laughed so hard!

it was so funny because i read the post you said in a "dude WTF were you thinking voice" in my head
do u know what i mean?

And the OP never actually cam back with the mower number so it could be an original International Cub , a stand alone Cub or an MTD Cub .
For the heck of it I did try to reverse search the part numbers for the shim washers to see what they were ised on but came up empty .

They used on the following machines though these parts are now NLA.