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Cub cadet runs terrible, it has a new carb, new coils, new alternator, and new starter. any help on how to fix it would be appreciated

How about supplying us with the model information from the engine so we can see what you are working on.

ILENGINE said:

How about supplying us with the model information from the engine so we can see what you are working on.

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Sorry about that, it’s a Briggs model 294447 type 0445-01

Again this is not a Western Union telegram service that charges by the word so how about some more specific detail ?
Runs bad is not much to go on .

bertsmobile1 said:

Again this is not a Western Union telegram service that charges by the word so how about some more specific detail ?
Runs bad is not much to go on .

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it backfires when trying to add throttle and when at idle it goes between sputtering and running good. like it will struggle and then instantly run good and then go back to stuttering. it also diesels for about 5 seconds after shutting it off and blows fire out of the carb when trying to add throttle, sometimes it wont even rev up when adding throttle and instead will just stay at low rpm's and sputter.

Thanks

Take the bolt out of the flywheel & check that the timing key is still intact
The key way should make a perfect square .
Then do a leak down test , a blown head gasket can do this
Loosen the carb and see if fuel drips out past the manifold gasket
Was it a genuine carb, a certified good carb from a real shop or a Amazon/ebay lucky dip carb ?

Someone throwing parts at the problem.

Questions: What was the original problem? Was the flywheel torque back to spec after changing the stator [alternator]?

StarTech said:

Someone throwing parts at the problem.

Questions: What was the original problem? Was the flywheel torque back to spec after changing the stator [alternator]?

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at first it wouldn't run and i changed the fuel solenoid and got it running but it was cutting out while i was driving it. then i took it apart and tried to fix it and now it runs much worse. when i put the flywheel back on i used an impact because i don't have a torque wrench.

bertsmobile1 said:

Take the bolt out of the flywheel & check that the timing key is still intact
The key way should make a perfect square .
Then do a leak down test , a blown head gasket can do this
Loosen the carb and see if fuel drips out past the manifold gasket
Was it a genuine carb, a certified good carb from a real shop or a Amazon/ebay lucky dip carb ?

Click to expand...

i know the timing key is intact because i just took the flywheel off yesterday
I drained the oil this morning and it smelled like gas, this is a sign of a blown head gasket, right?
I don't think it is a genuine carb as i did buy it off Ebay.

You may have multiple problems now with all the parts and changes you have been throwing at it. My guess is that you will need to go over your work to be sure each step was done correctly, then focus on whatever problem is left. Oil that smells like gas and oil that is thinned by gas are two different issues. Was the dipstick level higher than when you changed the oil?

sgkent said:

You may have multiple problems now with all the parts and changes you have been throwing at it. My guess is that you will need to go over your work to be sure each step was done correctly, then focus on whatever problem is left. Oil that smells like gas and oil that is thinned by gas are two different issues. Was the dipstick level higher than when you changed the oil?

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I don’t think the oil was higher than it was when I changed it, do you think trying to find a genuine carb would be a good idea

You do not know anything is right till you check it TODAY
The carb is flooding because the float is not shutting off the fuel as it should.
The bowl has to have an air vent in it or fuel could not flow out and because of EPA laws that vent now is connected to the inlet tract so fuel vapours can not escape into the atmosphere.
The fuel from the defective carb runs down the inlet tract then fill up the cylinder , flows past the rings and dilutes the oil in the sump
The thinner oil does not lubricate the engine properly and bypasses the rings when running so the engine burns oil and smokes .
On top of that the oil level rises from the fuel that has leaked into it and running with the oil level too high will also cause oil to enter the combustion chamber.
And finally the crankcase fume is run back through the carb and if the crankcase oil is thin then that fume will have a lot of oil droplets and of course the fuel so you get even more oil in the cylinder plus the fuel so the "air" entering the carb will have both fuel & oil in it then gets more fuel added to it so it burns rich.
Thus you get oil , black smoke & white smoke all coming out the exhaust , engine misses , has low power output and will surge because the revs will be all over the place.
If there is enough raw fuel in the cylinder when the piston comes up to TDC it can bend the conrod or blow the head gasket
You see now why we are always banging on about buying cheap parts of ebay or amazon .

And the tell tale of an internally blown head gasket is to run the engine for a few minutes.
Turn it off
Count to 10
Take the dip stick out
If smoke rises from the dip stick tube then the gasket is gone

Drain the Fuel and Carb bowl. Check emulsion Tube holes if you can access them. There is often a very tiny hole on the jet at the bottom of the float bowl. A wire from a wire brush will handle that. Carefully remove Float and needle valve and allow fresh clean gas to wash through the seat area. Carefully reassemble. Do not use an Impact gun on Flywheel bolt.
Really hand tight is good enough. Check tightness on all head bolts and carb mount bolts. Replace Spark plugs with properly gapped and tested ones. If you are confident, check Valve lash. Have new gaskets on hand. Check that coils are wired correctly.

sorry for not responding for a while, i ordered a genuine carb and put it on and that didn't solve it. turns out, the coils i had gotten were bad and when i put the original ones back on it ran perfectly.