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Craftsman Rototiller fuel problem....

#1

RobertBrown

RobertBrown

This machine sits for 10 months every year. For the past 5 or so I have been able to resurrect it with some starter fluid and a little elbow grease. I all ways run it out of gas before letting rest.
The motor would run if I use starter fluid, or if I poured a little gas in the carb, but it would not pull the gas up from the tank. It would only run a few seconds and stop.
I removed the cover on what I call a "fuel pump" and although the diaphragm was intact, it had no sign of gas reaching it and it was stretched out pretty good, enough to where I though it would not pump.

I'm about to pull the trigger on the diaphragm, spring and the round stainless steel....follower
Model 135202
Type 0145
Code 93040627

My question is this: What other parts should I order to get this thing up and running....short of a new carb.

Had links to 5 pictures and exploded views with part numbers but I guess that is not allowed any more. Kinda s()cks


#2

R

Rivets

I don't see a need to replace the spring and spring cap. I would just replace the diaphragm, plus the intake and tank gaskets, just to make sure you eliminate any air leaks.


#3

BlazNT

BlazNT

Make sure the fuel line is clear. Blow through it from fuel pump side to fuel tank.


#4

I

ILENGINE

BlazNT said:
Make sure the fuel line is clear. Blow through it from fuel pump side to fuel tank.
Click to expand...

this engine has the extended tube down into the tank, that gets pumped up into the small well on top of the tank were it is drawn up the small tube into the carb venturi.


#5

BlazNT

BlazNT

ILENGINE said:
this engine has the extended tube down into the tank, that gets pumped up into the small well on top of the tank were it is drawn up the small tube into the carb venturi.
Click to expand...

Guess I should have looked it up before I typed.:laughing:


#6

M

Mikel1

Their is usually a screen at the bottom of the extended tube of the carb. I have seen them clog up, more so if tank is rusty. If your going to pull the carb I would go ahead and clean the carb.


#7

B

bertsmobile1

And dont forget about the cylinder screen over the main jet, slip it off and clean it along with the main jet


#8

RobertBrown

RobertBrown

Here are the pictures










zzz3.JPG


#9

RobertBrown

RobertBrown

UPDATE 3-5-16

First of all....THANKS to everyone that contributed to this repair. I really appreciate you suggestions and directions.

This afternoon I was able to disassemble the tank and carburetor on this tiller. Seems to me based on your replies I need the tank/carb gasket in addition to the diaphragm pump parts. I have not purchased anything yet. Based on your responses I decided to wait until I had time to get it apart. Hope i can remember how all those linkages re-connect. :ashamed:
I'm considering a new pick up tube but it looks like it may be more trouble than it's worth. Other than some discoloration it appears to be fine...
Tank after disassembly cleaning...


Tank side of carb (bottom)


Pick up screem


This rust has me a little concerned, looks like a plug that is rusted, some port that was not used in this application.



Pickup tube


Tank after repainting


#10

M

Mike_Goad

I hope i do not get in trouble for this but....
Make sure to always use a fuel stabilizer in the gas. I work for B3C fuel solutions and we make Ethanol Shield which stabilizes the gas and fights the ethanol issues. it will revitalize plastic and rubber parts as well. please google it.
we also make Mechanic in a Bottle that will clean the fuel system without the need to remove the parts.
if anyone wants a free sample, send me an email and i will send you a sample.


#11

RobertBrown

RobertBrown

That probably qualifies as spam, especially since you say you work for the company and you only have 4 posts here.
I won't report it and I don;t think anyone is paying attention or cares.
Your product is one that is difficult to tell how well it works....any gas left for very long will screw things up.


I re assembled the tank carb and linkage today....I'm still waiting for the parts for the diaphragm pump......Amazon has comped the shipping...and sent some other perks to keep me as a customer.
I'm not in a hurry.


#12

R

Rivets

Robert, that's not spam, just a new member who has found something he thinks works well for him. He's just offering an alternative, it's up to you whether you agree and want to try it. You will find people on this forum who agree and who disagree, all up to personal preference. Personally I tell people to just use nonethenol fuel, because the reformulated fuel we have in this area creates a mess with fuel systems. To each his own, use what works for you and if additives work in your area, go for it.


#13

I

ILENGINE

Rivets said:
Robert, that's not spam, just a new member who has found something he thinks works well for him. He's just offering an alternative, it's up to you whether you agree and want to try it. You will find people on this forum who agree and who disagree, all up to personal preference. Personally I tell people to just use nonethenol fuel, because the reformulated fuel we have in this area creates a mess with fuel systems. To each his own, use what works for you and if additives work in your area, go for it.
Click to expand...

Rivets, the guy that suggested the fuel additive works for B3C fuel solutions so his reply could be construed as pushing his product


#14

R

Rivets

Yes, I agree he is trying to sell his product, but I don't see much difference when Robert@Honda points out the advantages of Honda or his post. Just as long as he realizes the rules on pushing sales, he should probably use the Marketplace section. Just my opinion.


#15

M

Mike_Goad

Sorry if I stirred up a bees nest.
Yes I do work for the company that makes Mechanic in a Bottle. However, I have been in the lawn and garden industry for 25 years repairing, teaching, and now fuel additives.
I used to be fan of Sta-bil but since i have been working here (4 years) i have seen what the other do and what our products do.
I am in the process of working with this group and other groups to promote our products but more importantly, to use my years of experience to help others.


#16

I

ILENGINE

Not much of a hornets nest. It is just easy to step over that line between suggesting a product and what is considered advertising.


#17

B

bertsmobile1

Which is not a problem when you are up front from the start and mention you have a financial interest in the product you are extoling.


#18

reynoldston

reynoldston

Not a fan of additives at all because I find they cause more problems then they do good. This being said I would like to know more about this Mechanic in a Bottle. Always looking for something new and improved. Just send me a private message on it seeing how this is so upsetting to everybody.


#19

M

motoman

Off topic but Sta-Bil has always worked for me. The corn lobby is under fire in congress. Maybe ethanol will roll back somehow.


#20

B

bertsmobile1

reynoldston said:
Not a fan of additives at all because I find they cause more problems then they do good. This being said I would like to know more about this Mechanic in a Bottle. Always looking for something new and improved. Just send me a private message on it seeing how this is so upsetting to everybody.
Click to expand...

No idea what is in the bottle, I definately did not pee in it :laughing:
GA's were running a promo on it and according to the rep a few shops were adding it to the fuel when the mowers were returned.
Aparently there are some very low temp volatiles in there that naturally make the engine start a bit earlier thus giving the customer the illusion the shop had worked "magic" on their engine.
I did try a bottle but was not greatly impressed and neither were my customers as there was no change in the customer feed back . It would appear neither were the buying public as it has been on the discount list for a very long time.
OTOH It doesn't snow here so the longest a mower sits is 1 month.
I run flash lube in the fuel injected LPG vans and that does make a difference, It prevents the engine knocking so the ignition over advances till the temperature sender detects overheating and backs the timming off .
The mixture of almost combustable hydrocarbon solvents & light fuel oil we get disged up down here ( all the stuff the rest of the world doesn't want ) will go off in a week in high summer so I don't keep fuel very long.


#21

reynoldston

reynoldston

Mike Goad gave up the ship, never hear anything back from him? :confused2:


#22

M

Mikel1

I don't use additives and I use ethanol gas. I leave fuel in mower every year(last 18 years) for 5 months then cut grass with that same fuel. Additives are good at taking your money sort of like those lottery tickets.


#23

M

Mike_Goad

Still Here....
I know everyone has there own opinion on fuels and additives and they have a bad rap as "snake oil".
Just to give a little education on ethanol blended fuel.
First off, ethanol is good for the economy, it is a renewable source of fuel, and it is good for the environment. It is not going away. In fact, scientists are looking for new and more cost effective ways to produce ethanol other than from corn. The oil companies say they do not like Ethanol but they really do. Ethanol is a cheap way for them to boost octane.
With that said, ethanol has an evil side as well.
All ethanol has water in it; depending upon the area, the amount can very. Ethanol is hygroscopic which means that it will absorb water from anything including the air. Once it has absorbed enough water, the ethanol and water will fall of the gas and sit at the bottom of the tank. if that mixture is sucked up by the carburetor while the engine is running, the engine will probably seize up. Another fact about ethanol is that it does not mix with 2-stroke engine oil. in other words, when you mix your oil and gas together for trimmers etc, some of that gas has no lubrication value.
The ethanol water mixture is also very corrosive (ph of 3.5-4). It will eat metal, rubber, and plastic parts. Feel the fuel line on your trimmer. is it soft or hard? chances are it is hard. This is from the ethanol.
When you buy gas, only get what you need for a month as ethanol blended gas will start to go bad after 30 days. Engines will run on gas that is starting to go bad, but it will destroy an engine if ran for long enough time. One tankful may not do it but running several gallons will. The old gas will carbon up the piston/cylinder and on 4-stroke units, it will gum up the valves so that they stick open.
I have processed and denied many warranty claims over the years because of old gas.
The key is to find a good fuel stabilizer and keep the gas stabilized at all times.
The trick is to know which stabilizer to use.
Almost all stabilizers use either alcohol or petroleum distillates as the base for their stabilizers. These items burn very dirty in the engine and will carbon up the engine over time. As far as alcohol is concerned, ethanol is also alcohol and we are having issues with that. Why would you want to add more to the gas?

Yes I work for a fuel additive company. Yes our products truly do work. So I do not cross any lines, please google Mechanic in a Bottle. You can also send me a private message and I will send you a free sample. I always say that proof is in the pudding.


#24

B

bertsmobile1

Mike_Goad said:
Still Here....
I know everyone has there own opinion on fuels and additives and they have a bad rap as "snake oil".
Just to give a little education on ethanol blended fuel.
First off, ethanol is good for the economy, it is a renewable source of fuel, and it is good for the environment. It is not going away. In fact, scientists are looking for new and more cost effective ways to produce ethanol other than from corn. The oil companies say they do not like Ethanol but they really do. Ethanol is a cheap way for them to boost octane.
With that said, ethanol has an evil side as well.
All ethanol has water in it; depending upon the area, the amount can very. Ethanol is hygroscopic which means that it will absorb water from anything including the air. Once it has absorbed enough water, the ethanol and water will fall of the gas and sit at the bottom of the tank. if that mixture is sucked up by the carburetor while the engine is running, the engine will probably seize up. Another fact about ethanol is that it does not mix with 2-stroke engine oil. in other words, when you mix your oil and gas together for trimmers etc, some of that gas has no lubrication value.
The ethanol water mixture is also very corrosive (ph of 3.5-4). It will eat metal, rubber, and plastic parts. Feel the fuel line on your trimmer. is it soft or hard? chances are it is hard. This is from the ethanol.
When you buy gas, only get what you need for a month as ethanol blended gas will start to go bad after 30 days. Engines will run on gas that is starting to go bad, but it will destroy an engine if ran for long enough time. One tankful may not do it but running several gallons will. The old gas will carbon up the piston/cylinder and on 4-stroke units, it will gum up the valves so that they stick open.
I have processed and denied many warranty claims over the years because of old gas.
The key is to find a good fuel stabilizer and keep the gas stabilized at all times.
The trick is to know which stabilizer to use.
Almost all stabilizers use either alcohol or petroleum distillates as the base for their stabilizers. These items burn very dirty in the engine and will carbon up the engine over time. As far as alcohol is concerned, ethanol is also alcohol and we are having issues with that. Why would you want to add more to the gas?

Yes I work for a fuel additive company. Yes our products truly do work. So I do not cross any lines, please google Mechanic in a Bottle. You can also send me a private message and I will send you a free sample. I always say that proof is in the pudding.
Click to expand...

Mike. if you want any respect for you and the company you work for,
STICK TO THE KNOWN FACTS

I have already responded to this on a separate thread but forgot to mention what you ommitted.
The prevention of the bacterial attack which grows in the water/ethanol mix in th bottom of the carb.
This is the whiteish jelly like goo that ends up in the bottom of the carb and is the same ( I think ) as the bacteria that used to be a prblem in deisel storeage tanks.


#25

RobertBrown

RobertBrown

Follow up:
I replaced the diaphragm, carb gasket, and crankcase fitttngs,
The engine started right up and runs well...other than some surging....that I can't seem to adjust with the throttle as I could before.


Thanks for your help with this


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