Craftsman Mower Will not start with Auto Choke

ProMower

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This post isn't meant to sound bull-headed, that's what i don't like about the internet, meanings and feeling behind words are harder to transmit,
anyhow, you did manually push on the choke linkage at the carb towards the closed position to be sure there was no slack in it?
Ya, I know what you mean. But I of course did that. Anyways, works perfect now!!
 

Rivets

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Hate to tell you this, but on today’s new auto choke carbs the idle jet is part of the starting circuit in the carb. It is now used to supply a little extra fuel for starting. Second, it wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen a new carb with a partially plugged jet. But seeing that you made DIY adjustments to the carb and probably know more than I do, I will go look for someone else to pick any argument with. Anyone want to talk oil or ethanol???
 

Hammermechanicman

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Not sure what wrong but some things that can cause hard starting. I have seen engines that needed the air cleaner assy in place or wouldn't start but ran fine once started. If the intake valve doesn't have perfect seal it can be hard to start but run fine once started. Misadjusted float level can cause hard starting. Low compression can cause hard starting.
 

Hammermechanicman

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"I will go look for someone else to pick any argument with. Anyone want to talk oil or ethanol??"

My oil is better than your oil.??
 

StarTech

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Scrub, Over the years I had choke vanes to be off center where they close on one side but not the other. On these I file the offending side to allow the vane to fully close. Sometimes it not center in the retainer part of the shaft, again vane needs moving to the correct position.

There have been even times bleed holes have to be either reduce/closed up or open up. Tecumseh engines were some the worst offenders of being too open. Several years ago I had Subaru 650 that had to close one the choke vane bleed holes to get the engine to start in below 40F weather.

I even had a leaf blower where the original carburetor choke vane wasn't restrictive enough and new replacement was over restrictive causing immediate flooding after install. I tried the old vane and then had a no start condition as there was not enough choking, What I finally was to rework the bleed hole on hte new vane to about half way between the new bleed and the old bleed. The use it several years afterward until his daughter back over it breaking the intake manifold which for some reason the blower would not start again.
 

StarTech

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Hate to tell you this, but on today’s new auto choke carbs the idle jet is part of the starting circuit in the carb. It is now used to supply a little extra fuel for starting. Second, it wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen a new carb with a partially plugged jet. But seeing that you made DIY adjustments to the carb and probably know more than I do, I will go look for someone else to pick any argument with. Anyone want to talk oil or ethanol???
No way I getting in one those arguments.
 

upupandaway

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This one has me stumped.
I just remembered - the choke being the brass piece is in a slot in the plastic shaft. with the choke open, wiggle the choke plate a little and try choking again to see if it seats better or with the choke closed use a pick or small screwdriver and wiggle the plate to see if u can get it to seat(close) better. Point is(from personal experience) the plate if not in the perfect position, may not fully close thus not choking properly.
 

bertsmobile1

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Contary to popular belief, you use both the idle and the main jet during starting unless there are check valves to turn them on & off.
In fact you use both jets all the time it is just at hgher revs it is 9% mainjet 5% idle jet
If you think o don't use the idle jet, next time you get a carb with an adjustable one close it off fully and see just how well it starts.
 
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