Craftsman - Kohler Mo# 917.271030. wires and connector connected to the voltage regulator burnt

ILENGINE said:
I did but I don't see a reason for them to be wired to a relay. While would you connect AC to a relay. And if they were connected to the same relay would create a dead short back to the stator. I was just thinking they were a casualty to a backfeed on the ground side of the relays. There is a major short someplace in that system. And I wouldn't be surprised if the stator is also cooked.
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Well they are on 87 & 87A so would be NC thus shorting out the stator when the ignition is turned off
Not the best way to electronically brake an engine
 
Thank you all for your kind help. So, the 2 yellow wires that are connected to the AC line, are they for headlights? Can I eliminate them? The headlight never worked anyway. I tried to trace the 2 yellow wires, they go in a relay (1 of 3 relays), and then I lost it! The wires from 1 relay go to the second and then the third!
 
Try to find the correct wiring diagram for your mower and your questions will be better answered. Good luck.
 
biplob827 said:
Thank you all for your kind help. So, the 2 yellow wires that are connected to the AC line, are they for headlights? Can I eliminate them? The headlight never worked anyway. I tried to trace the 2 yellow wires, they go in a relay (1 of 3 relays), and then I lost it! The wires from 1 relay go to the second and then the third!
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No they are for the engine braking system per diagram in post #12. It appears the system failed or was wired wrong and the engine braking was applied while the engine was running normally and not stopping thus massive amounts current was being generated.
 
biplob827 said:
Thank you all for your kind help. So, the 2 yellow wires that are connected to the AC line, are they for headlights? Can I eliminate them? The headlight never worked anyway. I tried to trace the 2 yellow wires, they go in a relay (1 of 3 relays), and then I lost it! The wires from 1 relay go to the second and then the third!
Click to expand...
And to answer your second question. Yes they can be eliminated.
 
Thanks IL. The coffee hasn't kick in yet here. Beside I just had to rewire my keyboard USB cable. Shorted out as I was posting. It time for a new keyboard anyway as half of the letters are missing.
 
I believe you have a direct short somewhere . A fuse would not allow that type of damage if it was in that circuit.
High resistance somewhere or melted insulation. Follow each wire, replace any overheated connedtions and clean all mating surfaces that wires connect to. Good Luck.
 
I have to tell you to run don’t walk from this model I had it since it was new with that exact engine and it was constant electrical problems from the third year forward.. I can tell you is that there was a diode instead of a rectifier to turn ac to dc (it was the cheap way to do it) and that diode used to overheat and fry the wiring, If I recall correctly, the right way to do it is to convert the diode into a rectifier which is what it should’ve been in the first place for an engine this size. What I did was I extended the wire and put the uninsulated diode on top of the pull start inlet air screen and the cool air being pulled over it solved the problem but it was a rig. I remember that somehow also that engine threw the plastic governor gear in the bottom end andI had to take it apart and put it back in place. I can tell you this before I figured out the diode thing I must have went through forty 30 amp fuses and freid a bunch of wire before figuring it out…
 
Again, thank you all for your kind advice. I found the correct schematic diagram, and it looks like there is no purpose for those 2 yellow wires. Kindly correct me if I am wrong. I eliminated the 2 yellow wires and the mower is running fine and the battery is charging.
 

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Yes that the schematic for the model posted, just not how your mower wiring is setup. Yours was setup with an engine braking system so wiring diagram in post #12 would be the correct one to go by.
 
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