Corroded ring terminal, battery cable

[SeniorCitizen]

I understood that deterioration by corrosion was causing it to spin .

Would some of the various dielectric grease brands may work as well . II can recall i'll look for the ingredients on various brands .

 

[AutoMechanic]

I’d replace that terminal and use some dielectric grease or some terminal protectant on it. You could replace the whole cable too if you can source one. At least clean it off for now though.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I've often wondered if younger guys know the oxidation needs removed from both components ?
No , a clean shop towel won't do it . The oxidation is hard and a common wire brush won't do it either .
I like the brush made to do that down to shining metal . I can't find it so i use my pocket knife to scrape clean to bare metal ,

 

[rdedrick]

People,

MTD mower turned over a bunch of time, weakly, and never started. So I cleaned off the corrosion from the positive battery cable and noticed the terminal on that red cable has ben reduced by corrosion over 26 years to about 1/2 the surface it originally had. Does this make a big difference?

It is made of yellow bronze (brass??). Need I replace with same type? Or can I use aluminum? Have yous done this before? Do I just pry apart the clamped/crimped fasterers and recrimp?

Thanks, people.

If its down to half its size due to corrosion that's a big difference. Using PI 3.14 half the diameter is far less than half. Cut he cable and re-crimp back to where the cable has no corrosion. Or replace it. It will make a difference. for minor oxidation use some "Deoxit" and a brush it comes in a spray can.

 

[PGB1]

I understood that deterioration by corrosion was causing it to spin .

Would some of the various dielectric grease brands may work as well . II can recall i'll look for the ingredients on various brands .

Don't use Dielectric grease.
Webster's Dictionary: "Insulating. Unable to conduct electrical, energy".

Use instead the stuff mentioned on Page 3.
Paul

 

[StarTech]

The only time you would dielectric (non-conductive) grease would be to make a multiple terminal connectors water resistance. With terminals such as battery you want a conductive grease.

Even when using dielectric grease you can over pack the connector leading to lost contact of some terminals.

As said for battery terminal use conductive anti oxidation grease, tightly crimp the terminals, and use heat shrink to provide additional sealing of joint.

 

[rdedrick]

I've often wondered if younger guys know the oxidation needs removed from both components ?
No , a clean shop towel won't do it . The oxidation is hard and a common wire brush won't do it either .
I like the brush made to do that down to shining metal . I can't find it so i use my pocket knife to scrape clean to bare metal ,

I found a tool for cleaning terminals. It may be pricey at over $25 dollars for the average person's needs but if you work on multiple machines or any vehicle it's great. A piloted bonding brush. A couple seconds using it chucked in a drill you have clean metal. Both the terminal and also a ground mounting point. google the following.

06741 PILOTED BONDING BRUSH (1/8")

 

[PGB1]

The only time you would dielectric (non-conductive) grease would be to make a multiple terminal connectors water resistance. With terminals such as battery you want a conductive grease.

Even when using dielectric grease you can over pack the connector leading to lost contact of some terminals.

As said for battery terminal use conductive anti oxidation grease, tightly crimp the terminals, and use heat shrink to provide additional sealing of joint.

The anti-ox pastes that are castor oil based waterproof very well. (Burndy Penetrox is one)
Ideal's NoAlox also waterproofs, although I don't know what the carrier grease is. SDS is mute on the subject.

 

[PGB1]

I found a tool for cleaning terminals. It may be pricey at over $25 dollars for the average person's needs but if you work on multiple machines or any vehicle it's great. A piloted bonding brush. A couple seconds using it chucked in a drill you have clean metal. Both the terminal and also a ground mounting point. google the following.

06741 PILOTED BONDING BRUSH (1/8")

The bonding brushes look like they'd be handy in electrical distribution work where stuff gets really corroded. Thanks for posting it, RedRick.

Those wire brushes for cleaning oxidation off of copper tubing before sweating joints work well, too. You can get tapered ones for inside and circle ones for posts. Just don't go too crazy and brush off the plating on the lugs.

 

[wingstrut]

If it was me and had that much corrosion, I would be replacing the entire cable. More that likely the cable insides are also corroded. I never use aluminum connectors on cable that size, always use copper or brass. I also never use crimp connectors on battery cables. I use solder connectors. I also use 8 gauge cable.

Rivets has it correct, the wiring on just about everything is minimum gauge so the companies can save a bunch of money.
When I replace I always go larger and solder everything.