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Good morning! I have a 26 hp engine, model 44P777-0124-G1. The only way I can get it to start is to spray a small amount of carb cleaner or starting fluid in the breather. Once started it runs fine. I noticed that once started I can leave the choke lever pulled up and the engine doesn't run any different. That's telling me the choke isn't working properly. I can manually push the linkage with my finger and the choke will not close. Will a tune up kit for the carb fix this? I have taken the carb apart and cleaned everything with no luck. Everything seems to move freely. Any ideas how to fix this? Thanks in advance!

It might help a little more if you give more then just a model number. What is this engine on and the make of the engine.

I would start by inspecting the choke cable from the choke lever to the place on the front of the engine where the cable connect to work the choke. Either something has come loose and the cable is sliding at the clamping points, or the cable is broken or bent at the control lever

reynoldston said:

It might help a little more if you give more then just a model number. What is this engine on and the make of the engine.

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Dang, I thought the model number would be enough. I didn't think it mattered what the engine was sitting on but it's a Ferris, 54" zero turn lawnmower. In the original post I stated it's a 26hp engine. I posted in the Briggs & Stratton forum so I thought that was understood but it's a Briggs & Stratton.

ILENGINE said:

I would start by inspecting the choke cable from the choke lever to the place on the front of the engine where the cable connect to work the choke. Either something has come loose and the cable is sliding at the clamping points, or the cable is broken or bent at the control lever

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Thanks. I have checked the cable and when I pull the choke handle, everything moves freely. I try to push it further by hand at the carburetor but it won't close any further. It's like the choke plate inside is not make a good seal or something. I can take this thing apart and put back together but I'm not real sure what's going on inside. I know the choke plate isn't supposed to close completely but is there some sort of seal or something under the plate that may be bad? I plan to take apart again to look but thought I might get some tips before I tear into it. Thanks.

Using a mechanics or small mirror look inside to see if the choke plate is moving.

I got tired of adjusting my choke, that wouldn't help start the engine anyway, and developed a primer system that removing the filter cover isn't required to prime so it will start. Briggs is too busy screwing around with life time oil change engines to make one that isn't aggravating.

If the choke is working OK there is only one thing. The fuel pump isn't holding prime.

I gave up on attempting to keep the choke adjusted on mine. Briggs seems more interested in making an engine that doesn't need oil changes than build one that will start. Look inside the carb throat with a small mirror or mechanics mirror to see what the choke butterfly valve is doing when operating the cable.

Needing to prime every time when cold, removing the air filter lid each time to prime got old real fast, so i developed a method to prime with gasoline that doesn't require filter lid removal. It was so simple I could enjinerr that all by myself and there ain't nothing to break, but possibly replace my drug store primer bulb once in awhile. Works every time.

SeniorCitizen said:

I gave up on attempting to keep the choke adjusted on mine. Briggs seems more interested in making an engine that doesn't need oil changes than build one that will start. Look inside the carb throat with a small mirror or mechanics mirror to see what the choke butterfly valve is doing when operating the cable.

Needing to prime every time when cold, removing the air filter lid each time to prime got old real fast, so i developed a method to prime with gasoline that doesn't require filter lid removal. It was so simple I could enjinerr that all by myself and there ain't nothing to break, but possibly replace my drug store primer bulb once in awhile. Works every time.

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That's exactly what I thought about doing.

reynoldston said:

If the choke is working OK there is only one thing. The fuel pump isn't holding prime.

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I did replace the fuel pump when all this started and it did not fix the problem. The reason I thought it was the choke is because when it is running, and I pull the choke knob, it doesn't change the way the engine in running. I'm sure it's something simple and I just can't figure it out.

Seniorcitizen, did you put the primer bulb before or after the fuel filter or would it really matter?

msdeerhunter said:

Seniorcitizen, did you put the primer bulb before or after the fuel filter or would it really matter?

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The gasoline goes in after the filter. Matter, yes, I wanted it to go directly into the carb throat. I'll see if I can find a picture of it. You may laugh but it be better than what Briggs has.

Can't find the pics maybe deleted. I'll try and get one later.

I believe there may be a picture of my set up here on the forum from a year or two or 3 or 4 ago but I have not a clue how to find it with the search system.

IF chokong down the motor makes no difference then you have a major carburettor problem and perhaps an air leak to boot.
This is worth fixing as it can end up with some nice big holes in the pistons.

bertsmobile1 said:

IF chokong down the motor makes no difference then you have a major carburettor problem and perhaps an air leak to boot.
This is worth fixing as it can end up with some nice big holes in the pistons.

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I have sure seen this happen on 2 cycle engines that are running lean, big hole in piston!!!!

Home made primer parts list:

1) eye dropper
1) valve stem - short automotive - cap and core ( Schrader Valve ) removed
1) 1/4" wood dowel 3/8" - 7/16" long slightly tapered on one end

Drill appropriate size hole in plastic cover so hole aligns with the carb throat below - off center slightly L to R
Pull valve stem into hole valve core/cap end down
Replace plastic filter cover
Place dowel in visible valve stem hole - tapered end first

To prime, remove dowel - lay on seat - there is a reason to place it there
Put one full eye dropper or 2 half full droppers of gasoline into hole
Replace wood dowel you laid on the seat
Put choke into full choke position
Start engine
Happy mowing

Tip: I keep an empty Echo 2 Cycle oil bottle with gas in the cup holder - eye dropper in there too in a paper towel sleeve - sanitary you know.

Guess I've been lucky with the Intek choke...Never looked inside the carb. A long shot...assuming the choke disc is on a shaft operated by a crank, try holding the disc while moving the crank to be sure the shaft is not broken.

I maybe should add. Even if the choke works as designed, prime it anyway in cold weather and save the starter. When primed plus choke they more likely to start with the first compression stroke.

reynoldston said:

It might help a little more if you give more then just a model number. What is this engine on and the make of the engine.

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6-4-2
This is either a strange steam engine configuration or a B & S engine
Type 44 will be a V twin

Remove the cowle and start the engine.
Spray something around all of the joints in the manifold using a trigger spray pack.
Some like to use water, others like WD 40 doesnot really matter all you are trying to do is see if it gets sucked in to the engine. Just do not use petrol or spirits or an aerosol unless you are good at putting out fires.
Choke cables oft get a little rusty so it might be jambing before it closes the choke so take off the choke cable and work the choke by hand and see if you get the same results.

Let us know how you went so we can help you further.

There should be enough fuel in the carb bowl to start engine regardless of fuel pump. Choke plate should close completely. There is likely a couple of holes in the carb choke plate, I have blocked one of them to aid in starting IF linkage is closing choke butterfly properly.

I can send you a Service Manual IF you like, address below, put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

This may help ......... Boobala .........:smile:

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_v-twin_carb.asp

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_v-twin_carb2.asp

Boobala said:

This may help ......... Boobala .........:smile:

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_v-twin_carb.asp

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_v-twin_carb2.asp

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Thanks for the useful links.

SeniorCitizen said:

Thanks for the useful links.

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Glad you like them Senior Citizen, Please be sure to share with others that may need the info, Have a GREAT day ........... Boobala ...... :thumbsup: