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I have a tiller and chipper that have Tecumseh engines. I need carbs for both engines and I have been looking online. I noticed that several vendors are offering carbs at a very low price. These are made in China and are much cheaper. I know you get what you pay for but has anyone tried these?

Very seldom have to replace the carb on these engines. I clean and rebuild about four each week, did two yesterday. Willing to bet that all you need is kit number 631021B and a little time. Here is the procedure I use.

Needle and seat replacement

Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.

I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.

With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.

PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.

You are correct you get what you pay for.
Funny enough there is more than 1 factory in China that makes carbs, some make good ones some make diverted landfill.
The idea that there is more than 1 factory in China or India seem to be too complicated for most Americians who seem to think everything from China or India or Brazil or Indonesia is exactly the same.

Have a little think about what you have just asked for.
You want an opinion on an unknown carburettor to fit an unknown model tecumseh engine from an unknown factory in China bought from an unknown distributor.
I think you may have come to the wrong place.
This is a lawnmower list not a mystical mind reader & futureist list :confused2:

Even after due diligence there is always an unknown factor in online purchases. We do need a directory of good, proven Chinese sources. But until then all we know is that they are masters of dubious duplication. Even if an assembly contains mostly good parts that one with the dirt and sand still clinging will get you. Go brand name, oem, and Taiwan. Preferably Japan. IMO

There is a simple practie I have used for 40 years that has served me very well.
If the part is branded and comes in branded packaging then you have a 99% chance it is a quality item.
because if you made a quality item you want every one to know who made this really good thing so you can sell more of them.

If you are making junk to fool people you don't want them to know who made it so you can fool some more cheapskate idiots.
So you package your goods in a plain box with no brand name and nothing on the product that could possibly lead back to you.

bertsmobile1 said:

You are correct you get what you pay for.
Funny enough there is more than 1 factory in China that makes carbs, some make good ones some make diverted landfill.
The idea that there is more than 1 factory in China or India seem to be too complicated for most Americians who seem to think everything from China or India or Brazil or Indonesia is exactly the same.

Have a little think about what you have just asked for.
You want an opinion on an unknown carburettor to fit an unknown model tecumseh engine from an unknown factory in China bought from an unknown distributor.
I think you may have come to the wrong place.
This is a lawnmower list not a mystical mind reader & futureist list :confused2:

Click to expand...

Thank you for your analysis. I was asking a general question and I was looking for a general answer. I did not know that there had to be that specific. If I had known all of the factories in China and India I would have named them. BTW, you misspelled Americans and carburetor.

To everyone else, thanks for the input.

"Very seldom have to replace the carb on these engines. I clean and rebuild about four each week, did two yesterday. Willing to bet that all you need is kit number 631021B and a little time. Here is the procedure I use."

Where do you get your parts? One of the engines is on an old Troy-Bilt tiller. The engine model is HH60 105410f. The other is on a Craftsman chipper and the engine is Craftsman 143965021. Most of the parts sites want the model number of the carb and I don't know that.

Any help appreciated, Pete

Tecumseh parts are available at any good repair shop. Take your numbers into them and they will be able to look up the carb numbers for you. You will need to double check your model numbers, as the HH60-105410F does not come up in any of my sources. The craftsman number crosses to a Tecumseh model OHH50-68036C. The carb number this engine is 640017B. Willing to bet that the repair kit you will need for both carbs is part number 631021B, which costs roughly $4.00.

This thread makes me say it again. Responses like Rivets and many others DESERVE TO BE IN FORM OF STICKIES AT THE HEAD OF THE FORUM. When such info is simply allowed to float and only be found by (lucky) search , everyone suffers. If the absence of such stickies is thought to keep hits at a higher count it seems like false economy.

Rivets said:

Tecumseh parts are available at any good repair shop. Take your numbers into them and they will be able to look up the carb numbers for you. You will need to double check your model numbers, as the HH60-105410F does not come up in any of my sources. The craftsman number crosses to a Tecumseh model OHH50-68036C. The carb number this engine is 640017B. Willing to bet that the repair kit you will need for both carbs is part number 631021B, which costs roughly $4.00.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, there are no shops in the area that will do any work for individuals. They are all committed to Lowes etc.

The correct number for the Tecumseh is HH60-105401F.

Where do get your information? If I could find a source I won't have to bother you guys so much.

If I had to purchase online (I have my suppliers as I work in the industry) I guess I would give Jacks Small Engines a try. I their service is half as good as their website, they should serve you well. Because your engine is so old, you will have to use the spec number of 105000F, to locate any parts needed. Part numbers I posted will work for both your engines. Can't believe there are no dealers in your area who will not sell you these parts, even the worst dealers around here will be glad to sell parts any day of the week, especially if you have the part numbers.

Piddler said:

Thank you for your analysis. I was asking a general question and I was looking for a general answer. I did not know that there had to be that specific. If I had known all of the factories in China and India I would have named them. BTW, you misspelled Americans and carburetor.

To everyone else, thanks for the input.

Click to expand...

Although he did not answer your actual question either, Rivets has your problem in hand so I won't add any thing to it.
And yes fingers slipped in one to may i's in Amercians, humble apologies, but Carburettor is a word of French origins and has 2 t's every where else in the world except the USA.
IT comes from the word Burette, also French, also a volume metering device.
carburettor Meaning in the Cambridge English Dictionary

I finally had time to work on my chipper today. I replaced the the needle and the seat in the carburetor. I also replace the primer bulb and the main nozzle tube.

The primer bulb is still not working. I have to give it a shot of carb. cleaner to get it started and it runs fine. If I cut it off, it will not restart without a shot of cleaner even when warm.

I let the carburetor body soak in cleaner for a couple of days and blew out the orifices with compressed air.

Any ideas? Thanks, Pete

Piddler , If you can pull up some of the articles in this forum via search you will see that the pro's often suggest probing in addition to softening (carb cleaner). The probing should be done with a softer probe like copper or brass wire, although some do it with oxy-acetylene tip cleaners. In addtion I have seen that so called "welsh plugs " are sometimes used. These cap the "drill thu" passages and may allow rifle bore type clean out. The welsh plugs I have seen can resemble freeze plugs on auto engines or be lead. Usually staked in after the passageway is cleaned. Pro staff should now edit my remarks...:laughing:

Three things to check. 1. Remove the primer hose and push the primer bulb with the end of the hose next to your cheek. If you feel air coming out then we know the primer bulb and line are good. 2. Second did you set the float level slightly rich as I talked about in my procedure? This will help with priming. 3. If these two items are correct then I feel that the main nozzle and jet you removed when cleaning are not installed correctly. You may not have gotten push all the way in, causing an internal air leak. Just an opinion.

I removed the carburetor and checked the float level and made sure the nozzle was pushed all the way in. The primer bulb is still not working and the engine will not start without a shot of carb cleaner. It starts fine after it has warmed up. I am going to use it until I finish my fall clean-up and work on it later.

To make sure that I understand, should I feel a bit of air at the port where the hose attaches when I mash the primer bulb?

Thanks, Pete

Just a FYI. Here is a knock off carb I have had good luck with from Ebay. This is for a 10 HP Tec but I wouldn't hesitate to buy from this seller. The carb was cheaper than the complete rebuild kit.

Seller: top-power-motor ( 5084 )

Item title Price Shipping price Qty Item total

US Stock CARBURETOR New For Tecumseh 632370A Fit HM100 HMSK100 HMSK90 Engines ( item: 311358208437 transaction: 583367430021 )


US $19.99

Piddler said:

BTW, you misspelled Americans and carburetor.

To everyone else, thanks for the input.

Click to expand...

I sure hope this isn't a spelling test because BTW gave some good information. :thumbdown: