change hydro oil

Rdr202

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I have a 10 yr old Toro MX5060. 300 hrs. Two local dealers have told me there's no need to change the hydro oil till 500 hrs. I was talking to a rep at the Hyro Gear (I think thats the name of the Co.) about another issue and during the discussion he told me it should be changed. I'd like to hear from people who know on here that does not have any vested interest in the issue. My gut feeling is to have it changed, but I don't know. That brings up another thing -- I don't know if I feel comfortable draining and refilling the hydros. Is it something a homeowner like me can do?
I use a simple formula to know if something needs an oil change.

First you find the cost to replace the piece of equipment then you get the cost of filters and oil and lubricant.

Now if the equipment cost is way more than the filters, oil and lubricant I go with the oil change.
 

rhiebert

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I have a 10 yr old Toro MX5060. 300 hrs. Two local dealers have told me there's no need to change the hydro oil till 500 hrs. I was talking to a rep at the Hyro Gear (I think thats the name of the Co.) about another issue and during the discussion he told me it should be changed. I'd like to hear from people who know on here that does not have any vested interest in the issue. My gut feeling is to have it changed, but I don't know. That brings up another thing -- I don't know if I feel comfortable draining and refilling the hydros. Is it something a homeowner like me can do?
 

jcworks

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comes out the breather
Go to hydrogear and download the parts diagram
On some you have to fill through the 1/2" breather hole and they are a PIA .
Yes I can see where that can be a pain. I am thinking the wheels would have to be off for sure and maybe a small flexible plastic tubing fitted on a funnel would work here. As for the breather, from what I can tell the breather is for hydros with internal expansion tanks only. There is a small reservoir bolted to the frame which I think is the expansion tank on my mower. I don't think there is a breather on this one. By the way, I got both of those by-pass valves working now whereas I had only one side working. Maybe my pushing back and forth and the WD40 somehow freed it up or just a piece of grit or something. Anyway, thanks for your help on that, I'd have never known just looking on my own. And frankly, neither of the two Toro dealers I talked to about it could solve it -- yet it was so simple.
 
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moparjoe

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I have a 10 yr old Toro MX5060. 300 hrs. Two local dealers have told me there's no need to change the hydro oil till 500 hrs. I was talking to a rep at the Hyro Gear (I think thats the name of the Co.) about another issue and during the discussion he told me it should be changed. I'd like to hear from people who know on here that does not have any vested interest in the issue. My gut feeling is to have it changed, but I don't know. That brings up another thing -- I don't know if I feel comfortable draining and refilling the hydros. Is it something a homeowner like me can do?
Like anything that people buy, the manufacturer wants it to wear out so you have to spend more MONEY. What would you rather do, spend money to fix the hydro or spend money on new oil.
 

jcworks

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Like anything that people buy, the manufacturer wants it to wear out so you have to spend more MONEY. What would you rather do, spend money to fix the hydro or spend money on new oil.
Moparjoe, its not the cost of the oil. Its a matter of 3 things. All I get from the dealers is either: (1) it doesnt need it till 500 hours, (2) appearing to be hesitant about doing it and expressing caution that sometimes all the air isn't purged and air lock occurs resulting in being unable to save the hydro. (3) Me being a homeowner, never having serviced a hydro before. Its not the cost of doing so; its a matter of can I do it right [or] do I have confidence in a local Toro dealer doing it and doing it right. Right now I'm leaning toward trusting myself and the info you guys have given me. I'll likely wait till early fall to do this after the mowing season.
 

RogerASki

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I have a 10 yr old Toro MX5060. 300 hrs. Two local dealers have told me there's no need to change the hydro oil till 500 hrs. I was talking to a rep at the Hyro Gear (I think thats the name of the Co.) about another issue and during the discussion he told me it should be changed. I'd like to hear from people who know on here that does not have any vested interest in the issue. My gut feeling is to have it changed, but I don't know. That brings up another thing -- I don't know if I feel comfortable draining and refilling the hydros. Is it something a homeowner like me can do?
I have a 10 yr old Toro MX5060. 300 hrs. Two local dealers have told me there's no need to change the hydro oil till 500 hrs. I was talking to a rep at the Hyro Gear (I think thats the name of the Co.) about another issue and during the discussion he told me it should be changed. I'd like to hear from people who know on here that does not have any vested interest in the issue. My gut feeling is to have it changed, but I don't know. That brings up another thing -- I don't know if I feel comfortable draining and refilling the hydros. Is it something a homeowner like me can do?
Hi, just saw your post. The link below was posted to Murray Forum. It might help you as it did me. Let me know what you think.
Thanks, Ski
 

BTBO

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I have a 10 yr old Toro MX5060. 300 hrs. Two local dealers have told me there's no need to change the hydro oil till 500 hrs. I was talking to a rep at the Hyro Gear (I think thats the name of the Co.) about another issue and during the discussion he told me it should be changed. I'd like to hear from people who know on here that does not have any vested interest in the issue. My gut feeling is to have it changed, but I don't know. That brings up another thing -- I don't know if I feel comfortable draining and refilling the hydros. Is it something a homeowner like me can do?
I have a Scag Liberty Z 48" w/Hydro Gear ZT 2800's. I too called Hydro Gear who said to change the oil and filters @ 75 hrs. After riding on the mower for 10-15 minutes to get the oil warm, I pulled one filter and let it drain, then did the other. Re-filled the system using Amsoil Synthetic 20W50 and Hydro Gear filters. Went through the procedure of purging air from the system with rear wheels off the ground, but worked each side 15-20 times. In my case, the hardest part in doing this was finding a wrench to remove the filters, as there is not much room to swing that wrench. But alas, it all worked out. Make sure you have a pan/container under the filters as the oil rather gushes out when filters are removed.
 
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jdwalsh

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Thanks Bert, I will change the hydro oil. I read the manual on HydorGear's website. It sounds easy enough to do. However there's two things I have to contend with. (1) The purging procedure first says (with wheels jacked up) to move the control arms with the bypass valves open, then move the control arms forward and backward 5 or 6 times with the wheels jacked up, engine idling. Repeat with the bypass valves closed. Then do the same thing with wheels on the ground. In an earlier conversation between you and I about the bypass rods and bypass arms I was able to get one side to disengage as it should. You helped a lot on that. The other side I wasn't able to free it up. So, to change oil by the book I'll have to try again to free up that bypass valve. (2) I don't have a torque wrench as the manual suggests torquing the top port plugs to 120 lbs. Maybe I will just have to take it in for the hydro oil change. Two Toro dealers I mentioned this to previously both said wait till 500 hours. So I did. The HydroGear guy though said it already should have been done. Finding an independent like yourself in the Birmingham area ain't easy. I'll look though.
Check that spec again. I'm pretty sure it said 120 INCH/lbs. No torque wrench needed. Just gently snug it up and check for leaks. If not, you're good, if you do have leaks, a little bit more until leak stops. Good luck
 

Cajun power

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Yes, they have filters. So, ALL the oil will drain from there, thats good. My only remaining thought is the filter guard screws are to be torqued to 115 and the top port plug to 120. If its really necessary to torque to those levels, if I can't manage that level I suppose a cheater pipe would work.
in ALL THE YEARS (DECADES!) I have serviced Hydrostatic Motor Drives I have NEVER used a torque wrench to install filters OR top filler plugs! EVER! You are talking about using a "cheater" bar to install filters and a plug and red flag warning bells going off in my mind! Read the service manual again please. Are you sure it is not INCH POUNDS? ...because it sounds like the use a cheater bar would be for some torque spec so high in the foot pound range that would require huge amounts of force. I find that very very very UNLIKELY. The last thing you want to do is make a mistake and go king kong with a cheater bar and bork up the aluminum threads. So please for the love of all things good and right, please refer to the service manual and not some online forum or youtube video dude telling you some ridiculous torque value requiring a cheater bar. It is most certainly NOT in the foot pound range and NO cheater bar would be necessary to tighten the filter and top bolts! Read the service manual ...

here is what I have ALWAYS done: hand tight...lightly coat the rubber seal on the filter with oil and hand tight, same thing with the top bolts. Hand tight. With the hand...no torque wrenches needed to do this.

there are basic things you will always want to do to prevent damage to the hydros when doing lube changes. I will list several tips that apply to all hydros I have ever serviced:

1. always lift the back wheels...on blocks for safety. I put the entire mower up off the ground, with the rear wheel where the hydros are located pitched down...gravity is your friend when you want to drain the lube...just makes the process easier this way. The key is safety. Because you are going to be starting the engine, sitting on it and running hydros after the oil change! . follow the service manual after the oil is changed...I LISTEN to the sound of the hydros during this air purge procedure...at low engine rpm...then as the sound changes, increasing engine rpm! You can hear the sound change. At first you might hear a slight squealing sound from the hydros....this squealing sound should go away as air is purged. Move the controls SLOWLY. Do not rack them back and forth like you are trying for gold in rowing. Make sure you move the steering bars back and forth and then one forward and one back motion...many many times. The service manual should show you the motion required. I do this for at least 2-5 minutes. THEN I turn engine OFF and let it sit for 10 minutes, grab a cold one, and then I look for leaks. A sheet of paper below the filters and filler plugs/bolts helps to find leaks. Fix any leaks...meaning simply hand tighten again.

2. The service manual should also show exactly how much oil. HOWEVER...AND THIS IS KEY. There will always be some oil that does not drain. So if you go by the service manual, which assumes the hydros are completely empty, then if you fill with the prescribed amount, then you will be overfilling..and that is not good and will damage the hydros. So What I do it measure how much oil drains out. It's a simple thing to do. Then THAT AMOUNT is how much I add. No more. No less. On some hydro systems, there is a reservoir and a min and max fill line. This is usually a COLD FILL LINE. Remember this when replacing hydro. Make sure the hydros are not hot when replacing oil to this line. Follow the service manual.

3. If you don't know what an equivalent hydro oil can be used, then use exactly what the service manual prescribes. (alot of people get confused about oil equivalents...so if this is confusing then just buy exactly what the service manual states). No need to become a rocket surgeon and use specialized oil additives. Just use the correct hydro oil per the service manual.

4. Clean the cooling fans. Just soap and water...since you are working in the area, its a good idea to clean then up..make sure there is nothing twisted around the cooling fan shafts and that the entire hydrodrive body surface is nice and clean...this helps remove debris and grime that can cause problems allowing them to run as cool as possible....I use simple soap and water and a small plastic brush... I do this after adding the hydro oil. This helps identify leaks during the purge test. If you have drained oil all over the hydro drive and machine will confuse you thinking you have a leak.
 
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