carburetor adjusting

[goosemasterkl]

I have an Echo that doesn't have a primer bulb on the carburetor and when I go to first crank it up with it being cold it's hard to start but after a few pulls it will finally start. I'm thinking there's not enough gas to the carburetor at first. Which jet would I adjust to give it more fuel so maybe it will start sooner with less pulls. Thanks in advance to anyone who may reply.

 

[triumph65068]

your fuel pump may be weak

 

[Rivets]

How old is this Echo, the newer models have a very different starting procedure. What does your manual say as how to start? If you post back give us more info on the unit you are talking about.

 

[Jason1]

You can search youtube for videos on carburetor adjustment. There's allot of content there.

 

[MowLife]

I’m a Stihl man myself but have a few echo’s that were given to me. In my experience echo’s have all been cold blooded....once warmed up they run nice. The way I adjust carbs is start fresh by closing both the high (H) and the low (L) jets completely and opening them 1 full turn. This is normally a good starting point if the carb is way out of adjustment or new. Crank it up and adjust your idle screw till it runs about twice as fast as normal idle. Now adjust the L jet until it runs its smoothest without engaging trigger...it may raise idle more but that’s normal. Now adjust the idle back down till head stops spinning. Then hold throttle wide open and adjust H jet to run smooth and near its highest rpms. Readjust idle if nessesary. While idling hit throttle fast to see if it responds quickly...if a delay you have the H jet too closed and need to open a little. This is how they taught us in Stihl school except we has proper tools to set/govern the rpms to prolong its life.

 

[bertsmobile1]

You can search youtube for videos on carburetor adjustment. There's allot of content there.

There is a lot of content but unfortuneatly a lot of it is tosh.
Add to that every new pollution control level, changed drastically the way carbs are set up.
What apples to Teir 1 carbs will not necessarily work for tier 2 ,3, or 4.
Perfect example is the Post from Mowman above.
That will not work on a tier 3 or higher carb where the jet needles need to be 2 turns out because the holes are finer and the jets are pointier.
People read his post and think "Stihl said to do it this way so it must be right " where as it is right , but only for a defined number of carbs fitted to engines before a cut off date which itself is different for different States.
Tier 1 carbs do not have return lines
Teir 2 and latter carbs have return lines and work under pressure .

 

[MowLife]

Good points Bert...I agree