Can't Remove Pully Nut....Help

[polarisgold]

Typical I do not know. My Crafstman is right hand BOLT. If you can get a long handled pipe wrench on the spindle try to match the handle length with the breaker bar . Use extensions on both handles if necessary. Small dia pipe works.
If safe and last resort weld a lever onto the spindle . Sometimes this is done to loosen auto flywheel bolts.

Thanks for the advice....I'll give it a try.

 

[EngineMan]

if you get down and have a look at the thread you will see if it's right or left hand thread its not that hard to work out.

 

[polarisgold]

Old shipyard trick - try tightening first.
Rich

That does work sometimes....thanks for the advice.

 

[polarisgold]

if you get down and have a look at the thread you will see if it's right or left hand thread its not that hard to work out.

As long as I can keep my cool and think! Problem is if ssomething does not work as expected I get a little upset and try something else, if that does not work I leave my garage and go to the laptop for advice from you and others on here kind enough to put up with a new lawn mower mechanic.

I hate it when someone points out what should have been obviouse.:ashamed:

 

[SONOFADOCKER]

I use a hardware store threaded pipe as a breaker bar . Three foot pipe works for me.

 

[MBTRAC]

An old Aussie farmers "trick" on rusted/seized bolts/threads->

Firstly, exercise caution on the advice below, do not use/or allow the acetone mix near/or to penetrate any seals/gaskets, bearing or nyloc nuts (it will destroy them!!) & the mix must be "fresh" as the acetone evaporates quickly (it's also very flammable ).

For any rusted or seized bolts/threads mixed 50/50 Acetone & oil (ideally auto transmission oil but any oil will work from light machine, compressor, engine oil to the ideal auto transmission oil) - you won't need much just a few drops applied sparingly, leave for day or so & then retry to loosen the bolt if it doesn't work the first time again put a few drops on each day .....etc until it loosens, above all have patience, it will always work after 1 or maybe few more applications !!! (and will avoid the bolt snapping/stripping) - I usualy dip a drinking straw in the 50/50 mix (I make only at max. an ounce or two at a time) then place my thumb on the end on the straw & drip the mix on to the bolt/thread.
It all works very simply as the acetone "eats" the rust/crud then evaporates leaving the oil to penetrate/lubricate the thread (repeated applications allow the mix to work its way into the thread).
Make sure when you replaced the bolt you firstly lubricate the thread with a little oil or grease prior to torquing correctly tp stop it seizing again (Acetone can be purchased usually at any auto or marine store in the paint or fibreglass section)

Impact drivers & air wrenches/rattle guns are great too but they do snap bolts & stress crack hardware if you are not skilled in using them.

Let us know how you get on

 

[polarisgold]

An old Aussie farmers "trick" on rusted/seized bolts/threads->

Firstly, exercise caution on the advice below, do not use/or allow the acetone mix near/or to penetrate any seals/gaskets, bearing or nyloc nuts (it will destroy them!!) & the mix must be "fresh" as the acetone evaporates quickly (it's also very flammable ).

For any rusted or seized bolts/threads mixed 50/50 Acetone & oil (ideally auto transmission oil but any oil will work from light machine, compressor, engine oil to the ideal auto transmission oil) - you won't need much just a few drops applied sparingly, leave for day or so & then retry to loosen the bolt if it doesn't work the first time again put a few drops on each day .....etc until it loosens, above all have patience, it will always work after 1 or maybe few more applications !!! (and will avoid the bolt snapping/stripping) - I usualy dip a drinking straw in the 50/50 mix (I make only at max. an ounce or two at a time) then place my thumb on the end on the straw & drip the mix on to the bolt/thread.
It all works very simply as the acetone "eats" the rust/crud then evaporates leaving the oil to penetrate/lubricate the thread (repeated applications allow the mix to work its way into the thread).
Make sure when you replaced the bolt you firstly lubricate the thread with a little oil or grease prior to torquing correctly tp stop it seizing again (Acetone can be purchased usually at any auto or marine store in the paint or fibreglass section)

Impact drivers & air wrenches/rattle guns are great too but they do snap bolts & stress crack hardware if you are not skilled in using them.

Let us know how you get on

I want to thank you for your advice. I finally got that darn nut off!!! Now I get to see how well my new to me mower cut the grass, which I was able to start yesterday. It cut a whole lot better than that piece of crap Dynamark I have.

Now the big question is how do I get rid of my Dynamark with its blown engine?

 

[polarisgold]

I use a hardware store threaded pipe as a breaker bar . Three foot pipe works for me.

After much effort my 24" torque converter (Pipe) did the trick. I gave up too quickly the first time I tried to loosen the nut.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[chance123]

Always remember "Lefty=loosey, and righty=tighty". Most all blade nuts/bolts are this way. The only exception are blades that go in the clockwise rotation. A good rule of thumb is if the leading edge (the sharpened part) rotates counter clockwise (as looking at it from underneath), You would loosen the nut/bolt in the "same" direction as engine running rotation

 

[polarisgold]

Always remember "Lefty=loosey, and righty=tighty". Most all blade nuts/bolts are this way. The only exception are blades that go in the clockwise rotation. A good rule of thumb is if the leading edge (the sharpened part) rotates counter clockwise (as looking at it from underneath), You would loosen the nut/bolt in the "same" direction as engine running rotation

Thanks for the response. I got the silly nut off and got my new to me mower running. It cuts so much better than my old Dynamark piece of crap.