Export thread

Can't Remove Pully Nut....Help

#1

P

polarisgold

I just bought an '06 Yard Machine for $150. It looks great for an '06 and runs great as well. I got such a good deal due to the fact that one of the blade spindals is froze up. So I got a new one but it came without a pully but I can not remove the pully nut from tthe old spindal. I stuck the old spindal in a vise and viced gripped the threaded opposite end. It won't budge.

The nut/spindal is not rusted in any way and looks to be in great condition.

Any ideas on holding this pig and removing the nut would be greatly appreciated!!


#2

EngineMan

EngineMan

Have a better look at the bolt some are left hand threaded bolts, you may, and am not saying you are, turning the wrong way.


#3

L

Lawnranger

polarisgold said:
Any ideas on holding this pig and removing the nut would be greatly appreciated!!
Click to expand...

I use a 1/2" impact.


#4

rmancini

rmancini

Old shipyard trick - try tightening first.
Rich


#5

P

polarisgold

rmancini said:
Old shipyard trick - try tightening first.
Rich
Click to expand...

That may have been what I was doing.....do you know weather or not blade spindals are left or right hand thread??


#6

P

polarisgold

Lawnranger said:
I use a 1/2" impact.
Click to expand...

My 1/2" Impacts is usless due to the fact that I had to sell my compressor.

Do you know if blade spindals are left or right hand thread??


#7

P

polarisgold

EngineMan said:
Have a better look at the bolt some are left hand threaded bolts, you may, and am not saying you are, turning the wrong way.
Click to expand...

Are blade spindals typically right hand thread or left???


#8

M

motoman

polarisgold said:
Are blade spindals typically right hand thread or left???
Click to expand...

Typical I do not know. My Crafstman is right hand BOLT. If you can get a long handled pipe wrench on the spindle try to match the handle length with the breaker bar . Use extensions on both handles if necessary. Small dia pipe works.
If safe and last resort weld a lever onto the spindle . Sometimes this is done to loosen auto flywheel bolts.


#9

I

ILENGINE

If the discharge is on the right side of the deck the spindles are right hand thread. If the discharge is on left side of the deck then they are left hand. Or another way to explain it is right hand blade has right hand thread and left hand blade is left hand thread.


#10

P

polarisgold

ILENGINE said:
If the discharge is on the right side of the deck the spindles are right hand thread. If the discharge is on left side of the deck then they are left hand. Or another way to explain it is right hand blade has right hand thread and left hand blade is left hand thread.
Click to expand...

Its on the right side. So now I am back to my original question.....See ititle. I have the spindal locked in a vice and I'm using a 1/2"ratchit with a pipe slid over the handel and the nut moved a little, then nothing. I guess I'll try a longer pipe.


#11

P

polarisgold

motoman said:
Typical I do not know. My Crafstman is right hand BOLT. If you can get a long handled pipe wrench on the spindle try to match the handle length with the breaker bar . Use extensions on both handles if necessary. Small dia pipe works.
If safe and last resort weld a lever onto the spindle . Sometimes this is done to loosen auto flywheel bolts.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice....I'll give it a try.


#12

EngineMan

EngineMan

if you get down and have a look at the thread you will see if it's right or left hand thread its not that hard to work out.


#13

P

polarisgold

rmancini said:
Old shipyard trick - try tightening first.
Rich
Click to expand...

That does work sometimes....thanks for the advice.


#14

P

polarisgold

EngineMan said:
if you get down and have a look at the thread you will see if it's right or left hand thread its not that hard to work out.
Click to expand...

As long as I can keep my cool and think! Problem is if ssomething does not work as expected I get a little upset and try something else, if that does not work I leave my garage and go to the laptop for advice from you and others on here kind enough to put up with a new lawn mower mechanic.

I hate it when someone points out what should have been obviouse.:ashamed:


#15

SONOFADOCKER

SONOFADOCKER

I use a hardware store threaded pipe as a breaker bar . Three foot pipe works for me.


#16

M

MBTRAC

An old Aussie farmers "trick" on rusted/seized bolts/threads->

Firstly, exercise caution on the advice below, do not use/or allow the acetone mix near/or to penetrate any seals/gaskets, bearing or nyloc nuts (it will destroy them!!) & the mix must be "fresh" as the acetone evaporates quickly (it's also very flammable ).

For any rusted or seized bolts/threads mixed 50/50 Acetone & oil (ideally auto transmission oil but any oil will work from light machine, compressor, engine oil to the ideal auto transmission oil) - you won't need much just a few drops applied sparingly, leave for day or so & then retry to loosen the bolt if it doesn't work the first time again put a few drops on each day .....etc until it loosens, above all have patience, it will always work after 1 or maybe few more applications !!! (and will avoid the bolt snapping/stripping) - I usualy dip a drinking straw in the 50/50 mix (I make only at max. an ounce or two at a time) then place my thumb on the end on the straw & drip the mix on to the bolt/thread.
It all works very simply as the acetone "eats" the rust/crud then evaporates leaving the oil to penetrate/lubricate the thread (repeated applications allow the mix to work its way into the thread).
Make sure when you replaced the bolt you firstly lubricate the thread with a little oil or grease prior to torquing correctly tp stop it seizing again (Acetone can be purchased usually at any auto or marine store in the paint or fibreglass section)

Impact drivers & air wrenches/rattle guns are great too but they do snap bolts & stress crack hardware if you are not skilled in using them.

Let us know how you get on


#17

P

polarisgold

MBTRAC said:
An old Aussie farmers "trick" on rusted/seized bolts/threads->

Firstly, exercise caution on the advice below, do not use/or allow the acetone mix near/or to penetrate any seals/gaskets, bearing or nyloc nuts (it will destroy them!!) & the mix must be "fresh" as the acetone evaporates quickly (it's also very flammable ).

For any rusted or seized bolts/threads mixed 50/50 Acetone & oil (ideally auto transmission oil but any oil will work from light machine, compressor, engine oil to the ideal auto transmission oil) - you won't need much just a few drops applied sparingly, leave for day or so & then retry to loosen the bolt if it doesn't work the first time again put a few drops on each day .....etc until it loosens, above all have patience, it will always work after 1 or maybe few more applications !!! (and will avoid the bolt snapping/stripping) - I usualy dip a drinking straw in the 50/50 mix (I make only at max. an ounce or two at a time) then place my thumb on the end on the straw & drip the mix on to the bolt/thread.
It all works very simply as the acetone "eats" the rust/crud then evaporates leaving the oil to penetrate/lubricate the thread (repeated applications allow the mix to work its way into the thread).
Make sure when you replaced the bolt you firstly lubricate the thread with a little oil or grease prior to torquing correctly tp stop it seizing again (Acetone can be purchased usually at any auto or marine store in the paint or fibreglass section)

Impact drivers & air wrenches/rattle guns are great too but they do snap bolts & stress crack hardware if you are not skilled in using them.

Let us know how you get on
Click to expand...

I want to thank you for your advice. I finally got that darn nut off!!! Now I get to see how well my new to me mower cut the grass, which I was able to start yesterday. It cut a whole lot better than that piece of crap Dynamark I have.

Now the big question is how do I get rid of my Dynamark with its blown engine?


#18

P

polarisgold

SONOFADOCKER said:
I use a hardware store threaded pipe as a breaker bar . Three foot pipe works for me.
Click to expand...

After much effort my 24" torque converter (Pipe) did the trick. I gave up too quickly the first time I tried to loosen the nut.

Thanks for your reply.


#19

C

chance123

Always remember "Lefty=loosey, and righty=tighty". Most all blade nuts/bolts are this way. The only exception are blades that go in the clockwise rotation. A good rule of thumb is if the leading edge (the sharpened part) rotates counter clockwise (as looking at it from underneath), You would loosen the nut/bolt in the "same" direction as engine running rotation


#20

P

polarisgold

chance123 said:
Always remember "Lefty=loosey, and righty=tighty". Most all blade nuts/bolts are this way. The only exception are blades that go in the clockwise rotation. A good rule of thumb is if the leading edge (the sharpened part) rotates counter clockwise (as looking at it from underneath), You would loosen the nut/bolt in the "same" direction as engine running rotation
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. I got the silly nut off and got my new to me mower running. It cuts so much better than my old Dynamark piece of crap.


Footer Links 1

Top