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Can't find spindle for 72"

#1

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

STT-29DFI-SS
S/N Starts with C81

I've looked at about 4 places online, where I can normally find all the part numbers I need. But for some reason, all of these places are leaving the deck part diagrams off their diagrams for this particular model. I'm needing a deck spindle for it.
I'm not sure if it's the same as the 52 and 61's (461663) I've been using (customer supplied). This time, the customer wants to buy it from me because he's got a couple of extra days. Stens has the 461663. But say it's only for the 52.

Anyone know the part number for this 72" deck spindle? Sorry to ask. But I just can't find it.


#2

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Look at #24 in this diagram, bottom right corner, but yeoooooewwwww, $255!! Part number 461697 ,, at that price i hope i'm wrong.


#3

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

A lot of SCAGs have spindles with rapered roller bearings and they are rebuildable. What is wrong that you need to replace the spindle?


#4

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

A lot of SCAGs have spindles with rapered roller bearings and they are rebuildable. What is wrong that you need to replace the spindle?
i noticed it had the spindle broke down,
1603333859745.png


#5

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Last scag spindle i worked on took standard size bearings. Only issues was getting a thin walled 1 1/2" socket to get the nut off. If it is an older SCAG i would rebuild the spindle. Haven't worked on rhe newer style.


#6

B

bertsmobile1

As hammer said,
Built properly with tappered rollers
So provided the housing is not broken , and it is probably a steel fabrication you are just up for bearings or even just an adjustment.
This is the prime reason we keep on using the 2000 / 3000 series Cubs,
Tapers on the blades like they should be.


#7

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman


This should fit the spindle


#8

StarTech

StarTech

Look at #24 in this diagram, bottom right corner, but yeoooooewwwww, $255!! Part number 461697 ,, at that price i hope i'm wrong.
Not the right spindle, not the deck spindle.


#9

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

A lot of SCAGs have spindles with rapered roller bearings and they are rebuildable. What is wrong that you need to replace the spindle?

Commercial customer is wanting to sell this. But make sure everything is good before doing it. This one spindle is getting a bit sloppy and wants it replaced.

I'm glad you said that. Because I've kept all of the spindles he's replaced thinking they might be rebuildable. Just never had the time to look into it.


#10

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

i noticed it had the spindle broke down,
View attachment 54663

Yes, I noticed that diagram. But didn't think it was one from the deck. But couldn't remember where another spindle was, other than the deck. Did I miss it before> Or was this spindle from the deck. Since it didn't actually say, I wanted to be sure. Thanks.


#11

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Commercial customer is wanting to sell this. But make sure everything is good before doing it. This one spindle is getting a bit sloppy and wants it replaced.

I'm glad you said that. Because I've kept all of the spindles he's replaced thinking they might be rebuildable. Just never had the time to look into it.
Do what you need for the business but the spindle may just need the preload on the bearings adjusted or $20 in parts to replace the bearings. Sell him a new one, rebuild the old one and resell it.


#12

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Not the right spindle, not the deck spindle.
According to the parts place it's a deck spindle...


#13

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

As hammer said,
Built properly with tappered rollers
So provided the housing is not broken , and it is probably a steel fabrication you are just up for bearings or even just an adjustment.
This is the prime reason we keep on using the 2000 / 3000 series Cubs,
Tapers on the blades like they should be.

The last one I did, I had to almost completely disassemble the spindle to get it off. Me and the front end man just removed the seals and the bearings just a few minutes ago. Looks easy enough. He's well schooled on bearings and races.
The big bottom nut on this spindle is as tight as it'll go. No more adjustment on this. It's solid against the bearings and spacer (between the bearings).
So I'm gonna get new bearings, races and seals for it.

The customer is going to be happy about all this because he's been buying new spindles from the local dealer for about $200. Then paying me to put them on.

One question. Is that big nut supposed to be extremely hard to get off. Seems the closer it gets to coming off, the tighter it gets?


#14

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

According to the parts place it's a deck spindle...

The one on this machine doesn't have all those groves. Is smooth with the key slot. Just like the ones on the 52" and 61".


#15

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

The last one I did, I had to almost completely disassemble the spindle to get it off. Me and the front end man just removed the seals and the bearings just a few minutes ago. Looks easy enough. He's well schooled on bearings and races.
The big bottom nut on this spindle is as tight as it'll go. No more adjustment on this. It's solid against the bearings and spacer (between the bearings).
So I'm gonna get new bearings, races and seals for it.

The customer is going to be happy about all this because he's been buying new spindles from the local dealer for about $200. Then paying me to put them on.

One question. Is that big nut supposed to be extremely hard to get off. Seems the closer it gets to coming off, the tighter it gets?
it's not left hand threads is it?


#16

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Last scag spindle i worked on took standard size bearings. Only issues was getting a thin walled 1 1/2" socket to get the nut off. If it is an older SCAG i would rebuild the spindle. Haven't worked on rhe newer style.

That nut you're talking about is a bugger to get off.


#17

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

The one on this machine doesn't have all those groves. Is smooth with the key slot. Just like the ones on the 52" and 61".
wonder if someone else replaced them with the wrong spindles before? i highly doubt it but, seems weird, Scag shows one thing, then the mower its self shows another.


#18

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

it's not left hand threads is it?

It's coming off. Just little at a time. It could be my impact getting weak.


#19

StarTech

StarTech

According to the parts place it's a deck spindle...
Read a little more carefully. It is a deck drive spindle and not a deck spindle.


#20

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

wonder if someone else replaced them with the wrong spindles before? i highly doubt it but, seems weird, Scag shows one thing, then the mower its self shows another.

The other two are the same as this one. But If the bolt pattern on the housing is the same as the 61, then it's possible. If so, then it seemed to work, because he said he hasn't replaced this one in a while.


#21

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Read a little more carefully. It is a deck drive spindle and not a deck spindle.
Makes sense now, thanks StarTech. (y)


#22

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

@StarTech S/N C8100091


#23

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Missing link. Deck model number SMST-72A SN C9000129. I think will solve the problem.


#24

StarTech

StarTech

Lane you have the right PN ending in 1663. Btw Stens is nearly double what I paid for this spindle earlier this year.

Reference IPL
SST-29DFI-SS IPL MANUAL

I am going through a secure server in Germany but the forum should be able to turn the link into a live one.


#25

StarTech

StarTech

Or can use the following link for the deck itself.

SMST-72A SN C9000001-C9099999


#26

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

The last one I did, I had to almost completely disassemble the spindle to get it off. Me and the front end man just removed the seals and the bearings just a few minutes ago. Looks easy enough. He's well schooled on bearings and races.
The big bottom nut on this spindle is as tight as it'll go. No more adjustment on this. It's solid against the bearings and spacer (between the bearings).
So I'm gonna get new bearings, races and seals for it.

The customer is going to be happy about all this because he's been buying new spindles from the local dealer for about $200. Then paying me to put them on.

One question. Is that big nut supposed to be extremely hard to get off. Seems the closer it gets to coming off, the tighter it gets?
That nut preloads the the bearings. I can't remember off hande the preload torque. I think something like 150 in lbs. Look to see if the nut and shaft were staked to stop from backing off. Need to file the stake punches to free up the nut. Once you preload the bearings stake the nut.


#27

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

The local parts store has a National Bearing "A-4" for about
Lane you have the right PN ending in 1663. Btw Stens is nearly double what I paid for this spindle earlier this year.

Reference IPL
SST-29DFI-SS IPL MANUAL

I am going through a secure server in Germany but the forum should be able to turn the link into a live one.

Te heck with buying spindles now. Since I last posted, I not have 2 rebuilt ones sitting on the shelf, greased and ready to go. I called the customer and told him the price difference between what he was spending at the dealer, plus me installing it, vs me installing a rebuilt one, he was excited. I'm saving him at least $100. Plus I'm making more.


#28

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

End result. Got the rebuilt spindle on, everything seems to work as it should. The only difference is sort of a high pitch squeal. I can't tell if it's a metallic squeal.
I did notice the belt is getting worn and has a couple of pretty deep cracks in it.

I greased it before I put it on, until grease came out of the releaf tab. I ran it, gonna grease it some more. It almost sounds like it's external, rather than in the bearings. But I know it's not a typical belt squeal.


#29

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

How did you preload the bearings? Shaft turn smooth and easily in spindle when done?


#30

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

How did you preload the bearings? Shaft turn smooth and easily in spindle when done?

I'm not sure how to "preload" them.

When I first installed it, it was too tights. So I backed the 1 1/2 nut off a little at a time, until it spun freely. A little less freely than the other. ( a tiny bit less) because the others had a little up and down movement in them.


#31

StarTech

StarTech

Preload is the resistance to turning once the assembly is tighten and is usually measures in either in-lbs or ft-lbs depending the manufacture's designed specs. Usually you got to initial more to fully seat the cups, loosen, and retighten to the preload spec.

An example is one of the Polaris ATVs I repair where the front axle is initially torque to 400 in-lbs to fully seat the cone cups, then the nut is back off 3/4 of a turn, and finally re-torqued to a rolling torque (preload) of 150 in-lbs.

I don't currently have the preload spec but an email is in for it.


#32

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

What star said. Been a while since i did a scag spindle but i think the spec was 150 in lbs. About 30 or 40 ft lbs to seat everthing then back off then tighten a 1 1/2" nut to 150 in lbs which is not much. Some folks adjust tapered roller bearings to no play some with a few thousandths play and some no play with preload. Best to consult the manual if you can find it.


#33

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Preload is the resistance to turning once the assembly is tighten and is usually measures in either in-lbs or ft-lbs depending the manufacture's designed specs. Usually you got to initial more to fully seat the cups, loosen, and retighten to the preload spec.

An example is one of the Polaris ATVs I repair where the front axle is initially torque to 400 in-lbs to fully seat the cone cups, then the nut is back off 3/4 of a turn, and finally re-torqued to a rolling torque (preload) of 150 in-lbs.

I don't currently have the preload spec but an email is in for it.

That sounds about like what I did. Since I over tightened it the first time. Then back it off til it felt about like the others. Except there was no up & down play.

The customer didn't come pick it up today, so I'll check the torque on it in the AM. I'm about to leave the shop now. Already cleaned up.


#34

B

bertsmobile1

There should be no axial play to us the slightest perception of axial play in a tapered roller to allow for thermal expansion
So run it till it gets nice& hot then see if the spindle is tight. If not, job done if yes then back off one flat then run it again for a while and check for freeness .
Much the same as doing wheel bearings on your car / truck .


#35

StarTech

StarTech

I went back and look at the assembly ipl again. Really you should not be able to over tighten the tapers; unless, you really over did it or didn't have the cups fully seated . There is an inner spacer to set the preload and there is even an outer spacer but of course these can be damage by over tightening things. With automobiles and ATVs that I have done there is no inner spacer allowing the mechanic to re-adjust the preload when the bearings and cups are slightly worn but in good condition.


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