I've looked at about 4 places online, where I can normally find all the part numbers I need. But for some reason, all of these places are leaving the deck part diagrams off their diagrams for this particular model. I'm needing a deck spindle for it.
I'm not sure if it's the same as the 52 and 61's (461663) I've been using (customer supplied). This time, the customer wants to buy it from me because he's got a couple of extra days. Stens has the 461663. But say it's only for the 52.
Anyone know the part number for this 72" deck spindle? Sorry to ask. But I just can't find it.
#2
Scrubcadet10
Look at #24 in this diagram, bottom right corner, but yeoooooewwwww, $255!! Part number 461697 ,, at that price i hope i'm wrong.
Last scag spindle i worked on took standard size bearings. Only issues was getting a thin walled 1 1/2" socket to get the nut off. If it is an older SCAG i would rebuild the spindle. Haven't worked on rhe newer style.
As hammer said,
Built properly with tappered rollers
So provided the housing is not broken , and it is probably a steel fabrication you are just up for bearings or even just an adjustment.
This is the prime reason we keep on using the 2000 / 3000 series Cubs,
Tapers on the blades like they should be.
Commercial customer is wanting to sell this. But make sure everything is good before doing it. This one spindle is getting a bit sloppy and wants it replaced.
I'm glad you said that. Because I've kept all of the spindles he's replaced thinking they might be rebuildable. Just never had the time to look into it.
Yes, I noticed that diagram. But didn't think it was one from the deck. But couldn't remember where another spindle was, other than the deck. Did I miss it before> Or was this spindle from the deck. Since it didn't actually say, I wanted to be sure. Thanks.
Commercial customer is wanting to sell this. But make sure everything is good before doing it. This one spindle is getting a bit sloppy and wants it replaced.
I'm glad you said that. Because I've kept all of the spindles he's replaced thinking they might be rebuildable. Just never had the time to look into it.
Do what you need for the business but the spindle may just need the preload on the bearings adjusted or $20 in parts to replace the bearings. Sell him a new one, rebuild the old one and resell it.
As hammer said,
Built properly with tappered rollers
So provided the housing is not broken , and it is probably a steel fabrication you are just up for bearings or even just an adjustment.
This is the prime reason we keep on using the 2000 / 3000 series Cubs,
Tapers on the blades like they should be.
The last one I did, I had to almost completely disassemble the spindle to get it off. Me and the front end man just removed the seals and the bearings just a few minutes ago. Looks easy enough. He's well schooled on bearings and races.
The big bottom nut on this spindle is as tight as it'll go. No more adjustment on this. It's solid against the bearings and spacer (between the bearings).
So I'm gonna get new bearings, races and seals for it.
The customer is going to be happy about all this because he's been buying new spindles from the local dealer for about $200. Then paying me to put them on.
One question. Is that big nut supposed to be extremely hard to get off. Seems the closer it gets to coming off, the tighter it gets?
The last one I did, I had to almost completely disassemble the spindle to get it off. Me and the front end man just removed the seals and the bearings just a few minutes ago. Looks easy enough. He's well schooled on bearings and races.
The big bottom nut on this spindle is as tight as it'll go. No more adjustment on this. It's solid against the bearings and spacer (between the bearings).
So I'm gonna get new bearings, races and seals for it.
The customer is going to be happy about all this because he's been buying new spindles from the local dealer for about $200. Then paying me to put them on.
One question. Is that big nut supposed to be extremely hard to get off. Seems the closer it gets to coming off, the tighter it gets?
Last scag spindle i worked on took standard size bearings. Only issues was getting a thin walled 1 1/2" socket to get the nut off. If it is an older SCAG i would rebuild the spindle. Haven't worked on rhe newer style.
wonder if someone else replaced them with the wrong spindles before? i highly doubt it but, seems weird, Scag shows one thing, then the mower its self shows another.
wonder if someone else replaced them with the wrong spindles before? i highly doubt it but, seems weird, Scag shows one thing, then the mower its self shows another.
The other two are the same as this one. But If the bolt pattern on the housing is the same as the 61, then it's possible. If so, then it seemed to work, because he said he hasn't replaced this one in a while.
The last one I did, I had to almost completely disassemble the spindle to get it off. Me and the front end man just removed the seals and the bearings just a few minutes ago. Looks easy enough. He's well schooled on bearings and races.
The big bottom nut on this spindle is as tight as it'll go. No more adjustment on this. It's solid against the bearings and spacer (between the bearings).
So I'm gonna get new bearings, races and seals for it.
The customer is going to be happy about all this because he's been buying new spindles from the local dealer for about $200. Then paying me to put them on.
One question. Is that big nut supposed to be extremely hard to get off. Seems the closer it gets to coming off, the tighter it gets?
That nut preloads the the bearings. I can't remember off hande the preload torque. I think something like 150 in lbs. Look to see if the nut and shaft were staked to stop from backing off. Need to file the stake punches to free up the nut. Once you preload the bearings stake the nut.
#27
PTmowerMech
The local parts store has a National Bearing "A-4" for about
Te heck with buying spindles now. Since I last posted, I not have 2 rebuilt ones sitting on the shelf, greased and ready to go. I called the customer and told him the price difference between what he was spending at the dealer, plus me installing it, vs me installing a rebuilt one, he was excited. I'm saving him at least $100. Plus I'm making more.
#28
PTmowerMech
End result. Got the rebuilt spindle on, everything seems to work as it should. The only difference is sort of a high pitch squeal. I can't tell if it's a metallic squeal.
I did notice the belt is getting worn and has a couple of pretty deep cracks in it.
I greased it before I put it on, until grease came out of the releaf tab. I ran it, gonna grease it some more. It almost sounds like it's external, rather than in the bearings. But I know it's not a typical belt squeal.
#29
Hammermechanicman
How did you preload the bearings? Shaft turn smooth and easily in spindle when done?
When I first installed it, it was too tights. So I backed the 1 1/2 nut off a little at a time, until it spun freely. A little less freely than the other. ( a tiny bit less) because the others had a little up and down movement in them.
#31
StarTech
Preload is the resistance to turning once the assembly is tighten and is usually measures in either in-lbs or ft-lbs depending the manufacture's designed specs. Usually you got to initial more to fully seat the cups, loosen, and retighten to the preload spec.
An example is one of the Polaris ATVs I repair where the front axle is initially torque to 400 in-lbs to fully seat the cone cups, then the nut is back off 3/4 of a turn, and finally re-torqued to a rolling torque (preload) of 150 in-lbs.
I don't currently have the preload spec but an email is in for it.
#32
Hammermechanicman
What star said. Been a while since i did a scag spindle but i think the spec was 150 in lbs. About 30 or 40 ft lbs to seat everthing then back off then tighten a 1 1/2" nut to 150 in lbs which is not much. Some folks adjust tapered roller bearings to no play some with a few thousandths play and some no play with preload. Best to consult the manual if you can find it.
Preload is the resistance to turning once the assembly is tighten and is usually measures in either in-lbs or ft-lbs depending the manufacture's designed specs. Usually you got to initial more to fully seat the cups, loosen, and retighten to the preload spec.
An example is one of the Polaris ATVs I repair where the front axle is initially torque to 400 in-lbs to fully seat the cone cups, then the nut is back off 3/4 of a turn, and finally re-torqued to a rolling torque (preload) of 150 in-lbs.
I don't currently have the preload spec but an email is in for it.
That sounds about like what I did. Since I over tightened it the first time. Then back it off til it felt about like the others. Except there was no up & down play.
The customer didn't come pick it up today, so I'll check the torque on it in the AM. I'm about to leave the shop now. Already cleaned up.
There should be no axial play to us the slightest perception of axial play in a tapered roller to allow for thermal expansion
So run it till it gets nice& hot then see if the spindle is tight. If not, job done if yes then back off one flat then run it again for a while and check for freeness .
Much the same as doing wheel bearings on your car / truck .
#35
StarTech
I went back and look at the assembly ipl again. Really you should not be able to over tighten the tapers; unless, you really over did it or didn't have the cups fully seated . There is an inner spacer to set the preload and there is even an outer spacer but of course these can be damage by over tightening things. With automobiles and ATVs that I have done there is no inner spacer allowing the mechanic to re-adjust the preload when the bearings and cups are slightly worn but in good condition.