Can I Extract Self-Tapping Spindle Screws and Reuse Spindles?

[beatleswmc01]

Hey everyone. I got a Cub Cadet from work for $50 last year and I’m looking to flip it. It came with the deck not installed and the spindles were off, the heads were broken off (we got it like that)
If the spindles are good can I use a drill bit and extractor to get the old screws out and then reuse the spindle? It makes a big difference in being able to sell it as-is or completely ready to go. Thanks!

 

[StarTech]

Normally
Rebuild the spindle housings while they are still attached. Otherwise the screws will likely snap off. Very hard to drill out and due the metal fusing most extractors will snap off if you try removing the screws that way too.

But since they are already broken off you need to replace the spindle assemblies now.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

I'd get a torch and heat the screws up, then extract.

 

[7394]

There ya go.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Heat & lots of real penetrating fluid if there is enough hanging out to get grip onto
If you have a TIG/MIG weld a nut to the top that is hanging out making sure you fill all of the hole in the nut ( it gets a lot of heat in there )
While still hot saturate with penetrating fluid ( as it cools it will suck the fluid in )
If broken off under the surface then start with a Dremmel type tool and a titanium bit that has a flat end
Use it to make the broken end flat so when you punch & drill it the hole will be strait & true ( or you have the best chance of that happening ) .
After that it is progressively bigger drills till there is just a spiral of the old bolt showing
Then pick the thread end & pull it out.
Now if there is a good bit of the bolt hanging out the top ( pointy end ) you can do the weld a nut on bit as well , clean up the fracture surface with the Dremmel and simply screw it all the way through.
If you do the latter then the hole will now be parallel so a self tapper will not work and you will need to tap the hole & fit a lock nut on the top

A lot of work so not economic for a shop to do but if you want to resell and you don't have to make $ 120 /hr ( charge out rate ) then the time does not matter

 

[StarTech]

Right in shops it is simply not economical to waste a day trying trying a few pennies. Tri Lobe screws are very hard to get out due oxidation. But of a homeowner time is worth something in my opinion but others like to consider it not worth a penny like the IRS.

Now the OEM 719-07293-M spindle housings are only retails for 35 usd each but double check per your actual model number as there may be a different version used. And these are available in after market for as little as 21.50 usd each thru Amazon. So is it worth all the time and money wasted?

 

[shadetree#1]

Not worth the effort trying to remove or even drill through the steel self tappers in the aluminum housing. How do I know this.
You should also check this first before attempting to rebuild or re-work any spindle housing, I've seen some of them old spindle housing not hold a new bearing race snug because the old bearing race had spun and ruined the aluminum housing but the old rusty bearing was still snug in the aluminum housing and not apparent that it had ruined the housing until you attempted to install a new bearing.

You might also check with 8TEN.com either by email or phone call. (just look at their site for the info they need to answer your Q's.
I've bought complete Cub Cadet DECK rebuild kits from them for less than $100.
Pricing individual parts would be almost twice the amount of a kit.
When contacting them you will need the exact model#, serial# but you will be SOL with them and get the wrong one if the deck is not the original one for the tractor.
After they give your their kit number, search online and sometimes Amazon will have the kit for few dollars less even though it's from 8TEN store. Some of their kits are complete with new blades and some kits do not have the blades. I've had good luck with 8TEN kits.
Also when you get a kit number double check by looking at the size of the belts and idler pulleys to make sure they are correct for yours. Sometimes the kit will have wrong size belt. I've bought their kits knowing that the belt was wrong size because the price of the kit was still within reason.

 

[tgzzzz]

Relative to spindles, I just bought and installed an Amazon Asian assembly from PetMigo. [Yeah, me too.] It looked fine tho, has a grease fitting, but no weep hole to know when the housing is full, and gone are those self-tappers -- replaced thankfully by capscrews into a threaded spindle assembly. As a belt and suspenders guy I put lockwashers and nuts on the protrusions sans instructions. 2016 CC ZRT.

So questions, 1) do real pros think grease gets past the bearing "seals?" You Tube offers two very different yet believable conclusions. I'm thinking of buying a spare housing, drilling a weep hole, removing the "seals" from some American bearings and generally having the best replacement possible that I can R and R in just a few minutes. I'm not convinced that OEM parts are better knowing as we do about sourcing.

2) I was taught not to use anti-seize or grease when using a torque wrench. There is some disagreement on this of course. But yesterday, when my air wrench, then my breaker with 2' cheater pipe didn't break my blade free, I was forced to reconsider. So, new spindle and new blade went on with anti-seize. I'll be watching that side carefully. Best practice? THX