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Hi Ya'll, I have a Briggs Intek Single 18hp on a Troy-Bilt rider. Very generic. I have watched many videos on doing the valve adjust. One will have you set the lash by setting the engine at a point where one valve is open and the other closed, and another has you going to 1\4" past TDC and setting both valves at that point. Which is better? Secondly, some say to set them both at .004", others say set to spec. Again, which is better?

I don't have the manual, but it was said the manual says set engine 1\4" past TDC and adjust both closed valves to spec of I= .005" and E= .10".

Thanks

IT makes no difference which method you use just so long as you do it properly
The cams have both quietening ramps and decompression devices and both methods are designed to have the followers on the base circle of the cam
I set both to ,005" and I am guessing you just forgot the decimal point position with the E @ ,1" were you meant .010"

Thank Bertsmobile. Both are set to .005 both with one one closed at a time and with both closed. I did not know if it affected the compression relief.

Freddie21 said:

Thank Bertsmobile. Both are set to .005 both with one one closed at a time and with both closed. I did not know if it affected the compression relief.

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The 1/4 inch passed TDC gets you passed the compression release. So that is the method recommended by Briggs but the one valve open and set the other one works just as well, and for the amateur is a better method.

Single cylinder Intek engines are set at .003-.005 Intake and .005-.007 Exhaust. Personally due the way these wear the valve train I set at the minimum settings to extend the time between required adjustments. I do this setting where say the .003 gauge slips pass and the .004 gauge won't slip pass for the intake. And .005 slips pass and .006 doesn't for the exhaust.

Thanks StarTech

StarTech said:

Single cylinder Intek engines are set at .003-.005 Intake and .005-.007 Exhaust. Personally due the way these wear the valve train I set at the minimum settings to extend the time between required adjustments. I do this setting where say the .003 gauge slips pass and the .004 gauge won't slip pass for the intake. And .005 slips pass and .006 doesn't for the exhaust.

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I agree and I think B&S specified piston 1/4" down past TDC specifically for the amateur home owner. I can send you a Service Manual IF you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.
Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

Thanks Tinkerer. I'll look first to see if I can download a copy so you don't have to be put out.

Tinkerer200 said:

I agree and I think B&S specified piston 1/4" down past TDC specifically for the amateur home owner. I can send you a Service Manual IF you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.
Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

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Using the 1/4" past method is faster
Faster = less labour time
Less labour time = cheaper
And this particularly applies to warranty servicing .