Briggs V Twin 22HP oil leak under both cylinder heads
- Thread starter sdnomad
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Do as startech says.
Use a UV tracer in your motor's oil.
You can get a Automotive store. Review on-line how to use first.
Be sure and get the correct type for motor oil. (not for water, antifreeze, freon, etc)
Do not let the RV dry for long time once detected because it will be permanent dye when going back to confirm no leak later.
I've had to use black matte spray paint over old dried dye to confirm that I had fixed the original leak
Use a UV tracer in your motor's oil.
You can get a Automotive store. Review on-line how to use first.
Be sure and get the correct type for motor oil. (not for water, antifreeze, freon, etc)
Do not let the RV dry for long time once detected because it will be permanent dye when going back to confirm no leak later.
I've had to use black matte spray paint over old dried dye to confirm that I had fixed the original leak
Doubt it's warped enough that it's the heads/block.
Those use the thicker type head gasket. If it's the head gasket on both it's probly not been torqued in the proper sequence.
You can check a head by lapping on a piece of glass, usually
Those use the thicker type head gasket. If it's the head gasket on both it's probly not been torqued in the proper sequence.
You can check a head by lapping on a piece of glass, usually
sdnomad
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How long do you run the engine with UV dye to find the leak? Do you run for a certain length of time or just until you see fresh oil dripping? It was dripping after running 1 minute.
Not seeing a reason to buy UV dye.
Do see several reasons to clean those oil/grit/dirt/grass lined/insulated cooling fins before you toss a valve or other engine damage occurs.
Once the engine is CLEAN, that will help you locate the leak.
Do see several reasons to clean those oil/grit/dirt/grass lined/insulated cooling fins before you toss a valve or other engine damage occurs.
Once the engine is CLEAN, that will help you locate the leak.
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Well in a shop setup it makes finding the true source of the leak a lot faster. Besides you can make a false find without it. Recently had a horizontal shaft engine leaking oil that appeared to be the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel. I almost pull the shroud and flywheel but instead went the UV dye route first. The oil leak wasn't even where it appeared to be. It was the oil fill cap leaking and the engine fan was sucking it up around the flywheel.
The last 1 oz dye bottles were 4.40 ea and I use only a 1/2 oz per engine so for me it is well worth it. Now of course the local 374CS is around $10 per oz.. Still even at this price it is worth it Now you would need a 365 nM light source. A pet urine strain UV won't cut it as it is around 400 nM.
Now of course I use the UV light here for counterfeit bill detection too to see the different color strips.
I even use it to find Hydro leaks.
sdnomad
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I put the dye in and ran it. It looks like it is coming from the head gaskets. I don't see where it could be coming from anything else in that area. It must be the way the air circulates that it pushes the majority of the leak towards the block and away from the head gasket. The two cooling fins past the head gasket have dye up in between them on both cylinders. The head gaskets between the heads and block are wet but most of the oil and dye is dripping behind the gaskets between the next two cooling fins on the block. I'll do what I can to check if there is anything warped and install new head gaskets.
Strange that both were leaking.
Engine must have been excessively hot or the previous gaskets were not torqued in proper sequence and to torque specs or someone previously removed the heads and re-installed using the old gaskets.
Head gaskets are pricy now days and some/most are China type.
Engine must have been excessively hot or the previous gaskets were not torqued in proper sequence and to torque specs or someone previously removed the heads and re-installed using the old gaskets.
Head gaskets are pricy now days and some/most are China type.
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