Briggs & Stratton 8250 storm responder carb bowl held on with Phillips head screws???

[ILENGINE]

Couple of things that could of occurred. First the float valve may not be sealing. And 2nd that style of carb has a removable plastic insert for lack of better term which has an O ring that seals the fuel inlet as the fuel enters the float seat area. If that O ring came out or is torn it will allow the fuel to leak even before it enters the float valve seat area.

Also need to sure the jet doesn't fall out of the end of the plastic emulsion tube if removed from the carb. Also some of those carbs have a spring in the bottom of the fuel bowl to maintain upward pressure on the plastic emulsion tube mushroom top to seal the gasket and fuel inlet O ring to the carb body.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello P.,

This problem sounds like a bad float needle allowing too much fuel to flow past it and the seat. The needle acts like a fuel "gate keeper". It only allows fuel in as the engine uses it when working correctly.

Carburetors can be a tricky, intricate device unless you have worked on them for years and studied them intensely. That is what experienced small engine mechanics have done, and there has been a lot of trial and error along the way. I have a large box full of various (core parts) carburetors that I keep around for the bits and pieces I need from time to time.

Honestly, I think you would spend way more money and time trying to fix this carburetor than to purchase a new aftermarket one off of eBay. That would be the easy solution.

I know you are looking to upgrade to a bigger generator (in your other post), but this would make a good candidate for portable work or resell it to someone who is in need of a generator before a weather emergency hits. People will usually pay a fair price for working generators.

In my situation, I have kept one of these smaller generators along with my bigger (main) 15KW Generac portable that I use. I alternate between them depending on needs and weather conditions. The smaller generator uses way less fuel when only needed for basic lighting, a window A/C unit or to run the refrigerator and freezer. It is simply a matter of have a 30A to 50A adapter for the small generator to connect to the house inlet cable already in place.

 

[Pepsidrivah]

Couple of things that could of occurred. First the float valve may not be sealing. And 2nd that style of carb has a removable plastic insert for lack of better term which has an O ring that seals the fuel inlet as the fuel enters the float seat area. If that O ring came out or is torn it will allow the fuel to leak even before it enters the float valve seat area.

Also need to sure the jet doesn't fall out of the end of the plastic emulsion tube if removed from the carb. Also some of those carbs have a spring in the bottom of the fuel bowl to maintain upward pressure on the plastic emulsion tube mushroom top to seal the gasket and fuel inlet O ring to the carb body.

I spotted that o-ring when I took the carburetor back apart and made sure that it was seated properly around the plastic piece that goes in to the metal assembly. I think I'm going to try to find a diagram of the float mechanism in the carburetor that I have and see if I inadvertently dropped a miniscule piece that may be causing this. That's what I was thinking in the back of my mind that something was not allowing the float to stop the flow of gas once the bowl was full. Thanks for the info and I will proceed!

 

[Pepsidrivah]

Hello P.,

This problem sounds like a bad float needle allowing too much fuel to flow past it and the seat. The needle acts like a fuel "gate keeper". It only allows fuel in as the engine uses it when working correctly.

Carburetors can be a tricky, intricate device unless you have worked on them for years and studied them intensely. That is what experienced small engine mechanics have done, and there has been a lot of trial and error along the way. I have a large box full of various (core parts) carburetors that I keep around for the bits and pieces I need from time to time.

Honestly, I think you would spend way more money and time trying to fix this carburetor than to purchase a new aftermarket one off of eBay. That would be the easy solution.

I know you are looking to upgrade to a bigger generator (in your other post), but this would make a good candidate for portable work or resell it to someone who is in need of a generator before a weather emergency hits. People will usually pay a fair price for working generators.

In my situation, I have kept one of these smaller generators along with my bigger (main) 15KW Generac portable that I use. I alternate between them depending on needs and weather conditions. The smaller generator uses way less fuel when only needed for basic lighting, a window A/C unit or to run the refrigerator and freezer. It is simply a matter of have a 30A to 50A adapter for the small generator to connect to the house inlet cable already in place.

Thanks for the info. I will try to get a diagram of the carburetor float mechanism for this engine and see what I may have inadvertently dropped. This will also give me the necessary information to purchase a carburetor for this model. For what it's worth, taking it back apart the second time was a 5-minute deal after the wonderful folks on this forum gave me some technical insights. Definitely a resource everyone should take advantage of. You can't help but learn something! Thanks again!

 

[Pepsidrivah]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324264091762 is a link to a carburetor for my engine. The engines is 0304-30 b - 01. Not to sound completely ignorant, will I need to adjust any settings on the carburetor or is it plug and Play? I assume that the section off the carburetor that is in between the carburetor and the engine is something that I'll detach from mine. Let me know what you think and I'll place the order. I comb the area that I was working on the carburetor with a magnet hoping to find any dropped items but it was negative. Thank you for your help!

 

[Scrubcadet10]

that gasket that seals the plastic assembly needs replaced anytime you remove it. or else it WILL leak like this.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello P.,

The only adjustment on the carburetor is the idle stop screw with the Phillis head. The generator governor and tension adjust usually does the rest of the work.

These usually have a load adjust tension mechanism for making sure the output of the generator is correct.

Ideally, the generator should put out 60 Hz at 120+ volts. (USA power grid standard) A device called Kill A Watt P3 is perfect for verifying the generator output correctly.

Do a search online for James Condon ("The generator repair guy") has a lot of great videos about various generators including the storm responder models and adjusting them properly.

 

[Auto Doc's]

that gasket that seals the plastic assembly needs replaced anytime you remove it. or else it WILL leak like this.

Hello Scubcadet10,

This is where many people blame the Nikki carburetor because they could not just simply open it up and clean it with carb spray, then put it back together without the new seal kit. (I used to do the same thing)

The seals are one time use and distort easily. Spray cleaners just make them worse.

 

[Pepsidrivah]

Thanks 4 all the help! Will keep u posted.