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Briggs & Stratton 8250 storm responder carb bowl held on with Phillips head screws???

#1

Z

Zzz

Generator unit is about 14 years old Briggs & Stratton Storm responder 8250. Always run clean gas through the unit and use stabilizer. Change it every 6 months. This year it had all the signs of crap in the carburetor. I went to take the bowl off to give it a good cleaning and it's held on by Phillips head screws? They're not tough enough screws to handle the unscrewing process. Suggestions? Thanks for any ideas in getting this bowl off without doing major damage!


#2

S

slomo

Powerbuilt 1/2" Drive Impact Driver Kit

1761259080018.png


#3

R

Rivets

Three things that have bailed me out when I run into this problem with Phillips screws.
1. Make sure you have the right size driver. Most often people use a driver which is too small.
2. I dip my driver into some very fine lapping compound, which gives improved gripping power.
3. Soaking each screw in thread buster for 30 minutes can help break the bond caused by electrolysis.
PS: I’m assuming you have the carb removed from the engine.


#4

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

If the carb is a Nikki or Mukuni carb they are NOT Phillips head screws they are JIS screws. Indicated by a little dot next to the X shape.


#5

A

Auto Doc's

Hello P.,

Hopefully the carburetor has been removed, if not you are fighting a losing battle.

A few good strikes with a hammer and a regular Phillips screwdriver normally shocks them so they come out.
The idea is to not grind out the slots by using forced hand pressure methods.

Word to the wise: You need to mix the stabilizer in the fuel can by lightly shaking it before refilling. Don't just pour stabilizer of any kind in the tank of any machine. Most people miss this step.


#6

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Im usually able to grip the heads with Irwin vice grips and get them out that way


#7

StarTech

StarTech

One way to get these screws is take a long solid bit of the appropriate size. Mount the carb in a vise with protection for the carb ends. I use long rods to prevent slippage in the vise. Now place the bit in place and strike the end of the bit with a heavy hammer. This produces the shock that will usually break the static bond of the screw to the threads. Then you should be able to loosen and remove the screws.

And they are Japanese standard screws [JIS] which has a different Phillips design. Usually the bottom the cross is more flatten and slightly less in depth. This why some Phillips screwdriver has the tip ground down.

Btw JIS screws specs are applied to other metric screws such the ones with hex heads, commonly called bolts. Which means a lot of the time the hex is smaller. This has been a great help on Kawasaki v twins muffler screws here as a 12mm hex is a lot easier to remove and install vs the standard 13mm hex.

This just like where last week I replaced the 1/2 hex head 5/16 screws on the Hydro Gear where I had to thin the wall of a 1/2 socket to get them out. I used a 12 point flange version of the 5/16 screw and it is much easier to install and will be for the next tech to remove.


#8

F

Forest#2

Post up a picture of the bottom of the carb bowl showing the screws?

I suspect you have the JIS (Japan Inbred Screw) type.
I use the methods mentioned in post #7 and I also have a !/4 inch drive ratchet and extension and the bit held in a 1/4 socket if you do not have the correct adapter and the carb mounted in a vise where I can push down with force so as to get a good feel and do not let the bit slip and mangle the screw head during the FIRST ATTEMPT.


#9

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

I use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megad...1761314041&sprefix=vesse,aps,151&sr=8-41&th=1


#10

R

Rivets

For those who don’t know, there are 2 types of 4 sided screwdrivers. One is called a Reed and there other is called a Phillips. Difference is that the Reed style comes to a point and the Phillips has a flat end. Most people don’t know this ( even techs) and don’t use the correct one for the job.


#11

F

Forest#2

Rivets said:
For those who don’t know, there are 2 types of 4 sided screwdrivers. One is called a Reed and there other is called a Phillips. Difference is that the Reed style comes to a point and the Phillips has a flat end. Most people don’t know this ( even techs) and don’t use the correct one for the job.
Click to expand...

Have you ever seen a Arthur Head screwdriver?
(very rare, possibly only 4 made from the A head of a typewriter key)
The A on the screwdriver fits into the A hole on the screw.
Made by Arthur Spooner OF THE KING OF QUEENS SHOW

You can review such on-line.


#12

R

Rivets

Never seen or heard of it. But I’ve never watch King of Queens.


#13

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Forest#2 said:
Have you ever seen a Arthur Head screwdriver?
(very rare, possibly only 4 made from the A head of a typewriter key)
The A on the screwdriver fits into the A hole on the screw.
Made by Arthur Spooner OF THE KING OF QUEENS SHOW

You can review such on-line.
Click to expand...
LOL!!!!!
"It fits into the corresponding A HOLE" :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:


#14

Z

Zzz

Well I started taking off the carburetor and am unfamiliar with the tool that I need to take the bolts off and hold the carburetor on. I know it's probably simple but every time I try to fix something, I run into something new. I'm open to suggestions on how to take those two bolts out so I can remove the carburetor and take the bowl off! Thank you in advance!

Attachments









#15

A

Auto Doc's

Pepsidrivah said:
Well I started taking off the carburetor and am unfamiliar with the tool that I need to take the bolts off and hold the carburetor on. I know it's probably simple but every time I try to fix something, I run into something new. I'm open to suggestions on how to take those two bolts out so I can remove the carburetor and take the bowl off! Thank you in advance!
Click to expand...
Those long screws (studs) that hold the carburetor on have a star on the tip that require an E-torx bit to take out. The studs each have a shoulder that hold the carburetor on.

A good pair of baby vise-grip pliers usually work, but damage to the stud will occur, so a proper bit is preferred.

Another method to remove them is called "double nutting". It is where you screw both air cleaner retainer nuts onto the stud with the flanged portion facing one another, tighten them against each other so they are tight. Then put a wrench on the one closest to the carburetor and back the stud loose.


#16

Z

Zzz

My photography leaves a little to be desired. The ends of those bolts are six pointed. My first thought is to just grab a hold of them with vice grips and turn counterclockwise. I don't know...
While I have the brain power focused in on something, what do you guys think about Westinghouse generators and or Duramax generators? Thank you!


#17

A

Auto Doc's

Hi P.,

Please don't mix subjects.

Open a separate thread post to discuss portable generator choices.


#18

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Pepsidrivah said:
Well I started taking off the carburetor and am unfamiliar with the tool that I need to take the bolts off and hold the carburetor on. I know it's probably simple but every time I try to fix something, I run into something new. I'm open to suggestions on how to take those two bolts out so I can remove the carburetor and take the bowl off! Thank you in advance!
Click to expand...
E5 external torx.. Harbor freight has em


#19

Z

Zzz

Just drove over and picked up a set. I shall give it a shot tomorrow when there is enough light. Thanks for everybody's help ‼️


#20

Z

Zzz

I took the carburetor off. I was able to remove the two screws and took the carburetor bowl off.There was a little bit of gunked up gas and I cleaned it. I cleaned out the entire fuel tank. I put the float mechanism back in and seated it just as I found it. The problem that I have created is this, it is getting too much gas. It sputters and pops and there's actually gas coming out of the air filter area. Not a tremendous amount, but still not right. When I turn the fuel line off, when the engine gets down to the point of running out of fuel it purrs like a kitten for 30 seconds and then dies. I have made no intentional changes to any carburetor needle valves. What might I have done to the carburetor to cause this?


#21

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Couple of things that could of occurred. First the float valve may not be sealing. And 2nd that style of carb has a removable plastic insert for lack of better term which has an O ring that seals the fuel inlet as the fuel enters the float seat area. If that O ring came out or is torn it will allow the fuel to leak even before it enters the float valve seat area.

Also need to sure the jet doesn't fall out of the end of the plastic emulsion tube if removed from the carb. Also some of those carbs have a spring in the bottom of the fuel bowl to maintain upward pressure on the plastic emulsion tube mushroom top to seal the gasket and fuel inlet O ring to the carb body.


#22

A

Auto Doc's

Hello P.,

This problem sounds like a bad float needle allowing too much fuel to flow past it and the seat. The needle acts like a fuel "gate keeper". It only allows fuel in as the engine uses it when working correctly.

Carburetors can be a tricky, intricate device unless you have worked on them for years and studied them intensely. That is what experienced small engine mechanics have done, and there has been a lot of trial and error along the way. I have a large box full of various (core parts) carburetors that I keep around for the bits and pieces I need from time to time.

Honestly, I think you would spend way more money and time trying to fix this carburetor than to purchase a new aftermarket one off of eBay. That would be the easy solution.

I know you are looking to upgrade to a bigger generator (in your other post), but this would make a good candidate for portable work or resell it to someone who is in need of a generator before a weather emergency hits. People will usually pay a fair price for working generators.

In my situation, I have kept one of these smaller generators along with my bigger (main) 15KW Generac portable that I use. I alternate between them depending on needs and weather conditions. The smaller generator uses way less fuel when only needed for basic lighting, a window A/C unit or to run the refrigerator and freezer. It is simply a matter of have a 30A to 50A adapter for the small generator to connect to the house inlet cable already in place.


#23

Z

Zzz

ILENGINE said:
Couple of things that could of occurred. First the float valve may not be sealing. And 2nd that style of carb has a removable plastic insert for lack of better term which has an O ring that seals the fuel inlet as the fuel enters the float seat area. If that O ring came out or is torn it will allow the fuel to leak even before it enters the float valve seat area.

Also need to sure the jet doesn't fall out of the end of the plastic emulsion tube if removed from the carb. Also some of those carbs have a spring in the bottom of the fuel bowl to maintain upward pressure on the plastic emulsion tube mushroom top to seal the gasket and fuel inlet O ring to the carb body.
Click to expand...
I spotted that o-ring when I took the carburetor back apart and made sure that it was seated properly around the plastic piece that goes in to the metal assembly. I think I'm going to try to find a diagram of the float mechanism in the carburetor that I have and see if I inadvertently dropped a miniscule piece that may be causing this. That's what I was thinking in the back of my mind that something was not allowing the float to stop the flow of gas once the bowl was full. Thanks for the info and I will proceed!


#24

Z

Zzz

Auto Doc's said:
Hello P.,

This problem sounds like a bad float needle allowing too much fuel to flow past it and the seat. The needle acts like a fuel "gate keeper". It only allows fuel in as the engine uses it when working correctly.

Carburetors can be a tricky, intricate device unless you have worked on them for years and studied them intensely. That is what experienced small engine mechanics have done, and there has been a lot of trial and error along the way. I have a large box full of various (core parts) carburetors that I keep around for the bits and pieces I need from time to time.

Honestly, I think you would spend way more money and time trying to fix this carburetor than to purchase a new aftermarket one off of eBay. That would be the easy solution.

I know you are looking to upgrade to a bigger generator (in your other post), but this would make a good candidate for portable work or resell it to someone who is in need of a generator before a weather emergency hits. People will usually pay a fair price for working generators.

In my situation, I have kept one of these smaller generators along with my bigger (main) 15KW Generac portable that I use. I alternate between them depending on needs and weather conditions. The smaller generator uses way less fuel when only needed for basic lighting, a window A/C unit or to run the refrigerator and freezer. It is simply a matter of have a 30A to 50A adapter for the small generator to connect to the house inlet cable already in place.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I will try to get a diagram of the carburetor float mechanism for this engine and see what I may have inadvertently dropped. This will also give me the necessary information to purchase a carburetor for this model. For what it's worth, taking it back apart the second time was a 5-minute deal after the wonderful folks on this forum gave me some technical insights. Definitely a resource everyone should take advantage of. You can't help but learn something! Thanks again!


#25

Z

Zzz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324264091762 is a link to a carburetor for my engine. The engines is 0304-30 b - 01. Not to sound completely ignorant, will I need to adjust any settings on the carburetor or is it plug and Play? I assume that the section off the carburetor that is in between the carburetor and the engine is something that I'll detach from mine. Let me know what you think and I'll place the order. I comb the area that I was working on the carburetor with a magnet hoping to find any dropped items but it was negative. Thank you for your help!


#26

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

that gasket that seals the plastic assembly needs replaced anytime you remove it. or else it WILL leak like this.


#27

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

1761697577193.png


#28

A

Auto Doc's

Hello P.,

The only adjustment on the carburetor is the idle stop screw with the Phillis head. The generator governor and tension adjust usually does the rest of the work.

These usually have a load adjust tension mechanism for making sure the output of the generator is correct.

Ideally, the generator should put out 60 Hz at 120+ volts. (USA power grid standard) A device called Kill A Watt P3 is perfect for verifying the generator output correctly.

Do a search online for James Condon ("The generator repair guy") has a lot of great videos about various generators including the storm responder models and adjusting them properly.


#29

A

Auto Doc's

Scrubcadet10 said:
that gasket that seals the plastic assembly needs replaced anytime you remove it. or else it WILL leak like this.
Click to expand...
Hello Scubcadet10,

This is where many people blame the Nikki carburetor because they could not just simply open it up and clean it with carb spray, then put it back together without the new seal kit. (I used to do the same thing)

The seals are one time use and distort easily. Spray cleaners just make them worse.


#30

Z

Zzz

Thanks 4 all the help! Will keep u posted.


#31

StarTech

StarTech

and bowl gaskets has to be perfect. IE no flaws. I once got a batch in where every one had the same defect. Sometimes a loupe is needed to inspect the gasket. As said you can't re-use the gaskets.


#32

Z

Zzz

Thanks! I ordered another carburetor and promise I will not remove the bowl from this one 🤔🤫


#33

R

RevB

Rivets said:
Three things that have bailed me out when I run into this problem with Phillips screws.
1. Make sure you have the right size driver. Most often people use a driver which is too small.
2. I dip my driver into some very fine lapping compound, which gives improved gripping power.
3. Soaking each screw in thread buster for 30 minutes can help break the bond caused by electrolysis.
PS: I’m assuming you have the carb removed from the eng
Click to expand...


#34

R

RevB

ILENGINE said:
If the carb is a Nikki or Mukuni carb they are NOT Phillips head screws they are JIS screws. Indicated by a little dot next to the X shape.
Click to expand...
And, consequently, you need a set of JIS screwdrivers......


#35

R

RevB

Rivets said:
For those who don’t know, there are 2 types of 4 sided screwdrivers. One is called a Reed and there other is called a Phillips. Difference is that the Reed style comes to a point and the Phillips has a flat end. Most people don’t know this ( even techs) and don’t use the correct one for the job.
Click to expand...
And a third called JIS, Japanese Industrial Standard, screws and drivers.


#36

R

RevB

Guess nobody has ever used an impact screwdriver.....there are larger sizes. I wouldn't necessarily buy this one as I have one from the 60s that uses ramps and not springs. Works most every time.....

1000013467.png


#37

B

bentrim

Auto Doc's said:
Those long screws (studs) that hold the carburetor on have a star on the tip that require an E-torx bit to take out. The studs each have a shoulder that hold the carburetor on.

A good pair of baby vise-grip pliers usually work, but damage to the stud will occur, so a proper bit is preferred.

Another method to remove them is called "double nutting". It is where you screw both air cleaner retainer nuts onto the stud with the flanged portion facing one another, tighten them against each other so they are tight. Then put a wrench on the one closest to the carburetor and back the stud loose.
Click to expand...
The first one I came to I tried a small, metric I believe, socket. It has taken out a lot of those screws without the price oof special tools.


#38

StarTech

StarTech

RevB said:
And, consequently, you need a set of JIS screwdrivers......
Click to expand...
So simple to make the JIS style Phillips. It is called using a grinder. Most of these cross points screwdrivers are JIS style already.

The first time I came across JIS screws back in the 80's, what we did was grind the point off to where the drive point fit properly.

Also those flat tips drivers needs to have a hollowed grind


#39

C

Craiger

Pepsidrivah said:
Generator unit is about 14 years old Briggs & Stratton Storm responder 8250. Always run clean gas through the unit and use stabilizer. Change it every 6 months. This year it had all the signs of crap in the carburetor. I went to take the bowl off to give it a good cleaning and it's held on by Phillips head screws? They're not tough enough screws to handle the unscrewing process. Suggestions? Thanks for any ideas in getting this bowl off without doing major damage!
Click to expand...
I feel your pain. I live in the rust belt where they salt away snow unless it's more than 6" deep, only then will the plows come out. I have 8 cars and have done all my own work for 60 years and have learned how to remove frozen fasteners over that time. Many are correct that you should use a good penetrating oil and vibration to shock the corrosion bond between the steel threads and the alloy carb body. Rather than hammering on the screwdriver, I like to use a pneumatic hammer with a blunt punch dialed down to low pressure so you don't bugger anything. I use about 20-25psi. This works the pen. oil in MUCH better than tapping with a hammer. Do this several times a few hours apart with fresh applications of the oil. Wait overnight if you can and repeat the next day. If the screw refuses to budge, next thing I try is a needle nose genuine Irwin Vise-Grip pliers, not one from Harbor Freight. The steel is much better quality and bites better. Clamp it on the shoulders of the screw as tight as your strength allows and try to wiggle both clockwise and counter-clockwise just the tiniest bit and once you get noticeable movement, increase the swings to allow the penetrating oil to work it's way in. Add more if it remains stubborn. Now you can try the screwdriver to finish getting it out.

If that doesn't work, I use a dime-size diamond wheel in a Dremel tool to cut a complete slot across one of the Philips slots. Next get a good sharp flat blade screwdriver of the correct size. If your screwdriver is worn so the tip is rounded smooth (very common, most people never sharpen their screwdrivers) grab a new fine file and file the tip sharp carefully while holding the driver in a vise. Now with plenty of pressure pushing in on the screwdriver, unscrew the screw. You might need to put a wrench on the screwdriver, some screwdrivers can accomodate a box end wrench where handle meets shank, if not use a square shank screwdriver to get torque with an open end or Crescent wrench. One hand on the wrench, your strongest hand on the driver to avoid the bit walking out and buggering the screw head.

If the screw still refuses to come out, do whatever you can to remove any remaining traces of fuel from the carb with low pressure compressed air run for a half hour or more. Then use a propane torch to hit the stubborn screws and have a wet rag handy to smother a fire should it occur. Have new gaskets on hand if you have to resort to heat. If that fails you should drill out what's left of the screws and use a tap to rethread the carb. If that's been buggered, you will need to drill out to the next size larger screw and re-tap.

Once you've got the screws out, throw them away and buy Allen head machine screws of the right size and never face this problem again. Or use Torx screws if you can find them. Then there's standard hex head if neither of the above can be found. This may or may not be an option depending on if there's enough clearance to accomodate the hex head. I've been known to grind down the hex flats until I reach the right diameter for clearance. Use a fine grinding wheel. It's challenging to keep the flats in a hexagon! Tractor Supply stores generally have a really good selection of fasteners in pull-out drawers. I use a little bit of Nevr-Seez on the screw threads when putting steel screws into a dissimilar metal as is found in carb bodies. Let us know how you make out, good luck. Patience is a virtue...


#40

Z

Zzz

RevB said:
Guess nobody has ever used an impact screwdriver.....there are larger sizes. I wouldn't necessarily buy this one as I have one from the 60s that uses ramps and not springs. Works most every time.....

View attachment 72174
Click to expand...
I picked one up from harbor freight and it was a little bit of Overkill but, like many of my other tools, I probably won't need it again 🤔 but if I ever do, I won't be able to find it 😳


#41

Z

Zzz

I just received my new carburetor for my Briggs & Stratton Storm responder. I'm attaching a couple of photos. The lever that is on it to control the choke is not going to fit the application. The other lever that's included will. What's the safe way of removing the lever handle that's installed in the carburetor right now? I will wait for your words of wisdom before I attempt Small engine lung replacement, I think that's the correct metaphor...

Attachments











#42

Z

Zzz

And I have just been corrected! Lung replacement surgery would be analogous to what I am attempting.


#43

M

My Hoe

Craiger said:
I feel your pain. I live in the rust belt where they salt away snow unless it's more than 6" deep, only then will the plows come out. I have 8 cars and have done all my own work for 60 years and have learned how to remove frozen fasteners over that time. Many are correct that you should use a good penetrating oil and vibration to shock the corrosion bond between the steel threads and the alloy carb body. Rather than hammering on the screwdriver, I like to use a pneumatic hammer with a blunt punch dialed down to low pressure so you don't bugger anything. I use about 20-25psi. This works the pen. oil in MUCH better than tapping with a hammer. Do this several times a few hours apart with fresh applications of the oil. Wait overnight if you can and repeat the next day. If the screw refuses to budge, next thing I try is a needle nose genuine Irwin Vise-Grip pliers, not one from Harbor Freight. The steel is much better quality and bites better. Clamp it on the shoulders of the screw as tight as your strength allows and try to wiggle both clockwise and counter-clockwise just the tiniest bit and once you get noticeable movement, increase the swings to allow the penetrating oil to work it's way in. Add more if it remains stubborn. Now you can try the screwdriver to finish getting it out.

If that doesn't work, I use a dime-size diamond wheel in a Dremel tool to cut a complete slot across one of the Philips slots. Next get a good sharp flat blade screwdriver of the correct size. If your screwdriver is worn so the tip is rounded smooth (very common, most people never sharpen their screwdrivers) grab a new fine file and file the tip sharp carefully while holding the driver in a vise. Now with plenty of pressure pushing in on the screwdriver, unscrew the screw. You might need to put a wrench on the screwdriver, some screwdrivers can accomodate a box end wrench where handle meets shank, if not use a square shank screwdriver to get torque with an open end or Crescent wrench. One hand on the wrench, your strongest hand on the driver to avoid the bit walking out and buggering the screw head.

If the screw still refuses to come out, do whatever you can to remove any remaining traces of fuel from the carb with low pressure compressed air run for a half hour or more. Then use a propane torch to hit the stubborn screws and have a wet rag handy to smother a fire should it occur. Have new gaskets on hand if you have to resort to heat. If that fails you should drill out what's left of the screws and use a tap to rethread the carb. If that's been buggered, you will need to drill out to the next size larger screw and re-tap.

Once you've got the screws out, throw them away and buy Allen head machine screws of the right size and never face this problem again. Or use Torx screws if you can find them. Then there's standard hex head if neither of the above can be found. This may or may not be an option depending on if there's enough clearance to accomodate the hex head. I've been known to grind down the hex flats until I reach the right diameter for clearance. Use a fine grinding wheel. It's challenging to keep the flats in a hexagon! Tractor Supply stores generally have a really good selection of fasteners in pull-out drawers. I use a little bit of Nevr-Seez on the screw threads when putting steel screws into a dissimilar metal as is found in carb bodies. Let us know how you make out, good luck. Patience is a virtue...
Click to expand...
Fellow Rust-belt dweller here. This is the voice of experience speaking (above, by @Craiger). Much wisdom here, for those open to it.


#44

Z

Zzz

Can I just pull the black choke controller lever off and replace it with the appropriate whatever? If yes what would be the appropriate way to remove the lever? I was thinking a screwdriver nudge on either side to free the lever from the carburetor. Let me know what you think. I am in the rust belt * 10. there is so much iron in the soil and the water here, it seems to exacerbate the oxidation process.


#45

R

RevB

Pepsidrivah said:
I picked one up from harbor freight and it was a little bit of Overkill but, like many of my other tools, I probably won't need it again 🤔 but if I ever do, I won't be able to find it 😳
Click to expand...
Best thing I did last year was take an inventory of every tool box, cabinet, parts for the garage. Same for the computer room/office/electronics and any other place where there are things I might need/want to find. I have three files about 10 pages each for the different locations saved as a PDF that can be quickly searched. Saved me several times but it is a challenge to keep it current. I'd say it's 99% right but entropy will have its way.....


#46

R

RevB

My Hoe said:
Fellow Rust-belt dweller here. This is the voice of experience speaking (above, by @Craiger). Much wisdom here, for those open to it.
Click to expand...
Forgot one modern tool that is easy to use and is a tremendous help....an induction heater. Red hot in seconds, no flame to deal with. I have a pencil model that I can change coil tips for smaller fasteners and another that will handle up to 7/8" fasteners. Above that it's usually oxy/acetylene with tips changed out to suit the job.


#47

T

TobyU

Pepsidrivah said:
Generator unit is about 14 years old Briggs & Stratton Storm responder 8250. Always run clean gas through the unit and use stabilizer. Change it every 6 months. This year it had all the signs of crap in the carburetor. I went to take the bowl off to give it a good cleaning and it's held on by Phillips head screws? They're not tough enough screws to handle the unscrewing process. Suggestions? Thanks for any ideas in getting this bowl off without doing major damage!
Click to expand...
I use a small pair of Vise Grips the actual brand name ones and squeeze them very tightly in the proper direction around the outside of the screw and then I can crack them loose.
You won't need to put them back anywhere near as tight so you'll be fine.


#48

P

PGB1

If you're ever in a jam for a small JIS driver but happen to have a Reed & Prince driver, quite often that driver will operate the screw. I know it sounds odd because the R & P tapers to a fine point, but it works well on JIS when held at a tiny bit of an angle off perpendicular.

Taking an old "next size too large" phillips and grinding a bit of the tip flat also usually works on JIS.

I do the cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool trick mentioned earlier to make a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. And, if possible, stainless hex head goes back in.


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