briggs fuel pump issue
- Thread starter kjinohio
- Start date
I can and do run non ethanol in all my saws and 2 stroke stuff. I've cut\/split up to 80 cord in a year so buying that much for the splitter isn't in the cards. Last pump died with less than 3 hrs use and it came from Briggs parts dealer so there id something up. Original lasted me 7 years and engine had 271 hrs on it when I got it. Something has changed as I assure you, the first one never had non ethanol in it.
So sounds like faulty pumps.
If you pull the hose off AT the carb inlet and have nothing, pump is lame. Obviously cranking the engine while doing this.
One could install a higher than the carb aux fuel source for testing. If she runs like a top, AGAIN it points to a bad pump. Just for confirmation.
If you pull the hose off AT the carb inlet and have nothing, pump is lame. Obviously cranking the engine while doing this.
One could install a higher than the carb aux fuel source for testing. If she runs like a top, AGAIN it points to a bad pump. Just for confirmation.
Nice job.
I have be using this one on my john deere for 5 years now. From Amazon.Using a Briggs engine on a wood splitter I built. About a 2 years ago the original fuel pump quit so I got a new OEM Mikuni. Put it on and worked fine. A year later, it went out again. Once again, bought an OEM and worked fine for a spitting job I had. Went to start it today and after that one time use, it's dead again. This time I've ordered a knockoff brand but want to know what brand/model of electric would be good to use if this one dies as well? Been VERY frustrating. The original pump worked fine for 8 years with no issues. I do run ethanol fuel but to die after a single use points to factory issues.Anyone else run into this? It's a 25 HP Briggs and a 808656 Fuel pump.
Electric Fuel Pump 12V Universal Low Pressure 12 Volt Transfer Inline Fuel Pump for Lawn Mower Carburetor Gas Diesel Engine 2.5-4psi HEP-02A
As engines wear, the pump doesn't work like when new. Be Done with the impulse type pump. Get an Electric low pressure pump off Amazon or eBay, under $20 and pump just works all the time, no more troubles ever. Even if no battery, should be a battery charge source off the magneto. Get rid of that crappy impulse pump. It can fail and allow gas into Oil instead if Carb. I'm sure they designed it that way.
Nice build. Just about any small fuel pump these days will work fine. You may also need a pressure regulator to drop the pressure to 1 psi as most are above that by 1.5 psi or higher. These inline pumps are all pretty much the same design. Check to see if they have check valves or anti siphon built in. And anyone trying to convince you that ethanol is killing your pulse pump is ill informed or just reading from a script.It's a Briggs Intek V twin 25 HP engine. Model 445777, type 0231 E1, Code 03102240. Mikuni pump # is 027013 with Briggs # being 808656. Line from tank gravity feeds out quickly, no obstructions. Engine runs perfect with gas or either sprayed into air inlet. Pump is used on a lot of engines. It's just not pumping anything no matter how much it is cranked. Fuel delivery issue.
OzPete
Member
The pump is "driven" by crankcase pulse, and anything that reduces the amount of crankcase pulse at the pump will severely reduce the pump's output. At the very least, all of the following should be checked because they will affect fuel pump performance ...
*Leaking / perished / cracked / dislodged pulse hose.
*Worn piston rings = (piston ring blow-by leaks past piston rings into crankcase thus reducing crankcase pulse).
*Leaking / blown head gasket = (compression and/or combustion pressure leaks down pushrod cavity into crankcase thus reducing crankcase pulse).
*Leaking O-ring under cap of oil dipstick = (atmospheric pressure enters crankcase thus reducing crankcase pulse).
*Faulty / inoperative crankcase Breather = (Breather's reed valve is unable to seal, thus reducing crankcase pulse).
*Any gasket (rocker cover / sump / breather ??) leaking, thus affecting the integrity of the crankcase as a sealed volume.
Your Briggs & Stratton Service Dealer will have the specification for minimum Crankcase Vacuum, and the equipment (Manometer) for testing case vacuum.
*Leaking / perished / cracked / dislodged pulse hose.
*Worn piston rings = (piston ring blow-by leaks past piston rings into crankcase thus reducing crankcase pulse).
*Leaking / blown head gasket = (compression and/or combustion pressure leaks down pushrod cavity into crankcase thus reducing crankcase pulse).
*Leaking O-ring under cap of oil dipstick = (atmospheric pressure enters crankcase thus reducing crankcase pulse).
*Faulty / inoperative crankcase Breather = (Breather's reed valve is unable to seal, thus reducing crankcase pulse).
*Any gasket (rocker cover / sump / breather ??) leaking, thus affecting the integrity of the crankcase as a sealed volume.
Your Briggs & Stratton Service Dealer will have the specification for minimum Crankcase Vacuum, and the equipment (Manometer) for testing case vacuum.