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Briggs engine popping

#1

Omacrulzzz

Omacrulzzz

This is poulan pro riding mower with a Briggs engine. Model # 282H07-0196-E1. Brand new Briggs carb. New spark plug. New starter. Battery is reading over 12 volts on my meter. Won't crank unless I jump it off. Once it's running, it stays running and cuts grass, but constant popping sound. I tried adjusting valves, but it's still popping. I also tried replacing flywheel key. What am I missing?


#2

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

793880 cam superseded to 84005207... those are known for the compression relief failing and cranking hard... some also have issues with the cam lobes wearing down, causing popping.


#3

S

slomo

Filthy fuel tank could of plugged up that new Briggs carb.

Clean the fuel tank and flush with fresh gas.

Clean the cylinder cooling fins YEARLY as per your engine manual. Neglect this and you will have engine damage later.

slomo


#4

Omacrulzzz

Omacrulzzz

I neglected to mention I hit a log before the popping started. Sheared the flywheel key, then replaced it and assumed that was not a problem anymore. Tried several more things and gave up. Here I am two years later and decided to check that flywheel key again. Yup. Sheared again. Didn't torque the bolt tight enough. Put another key in, tightened the heck out of it, and voila, it's running now with no popping. Only problem I still have is the engine is shaking when the blades are engaged. I believe that's because of a deck pulley or maybe just needs a new belt. We shall see. I'm excited that I was able to get it working after putting so much effort into it and giving up multiple times.


#5

B

bertsmobile1

You are not the firsts nor will you be the last to break a new key
Usually there is a little damage to the key ways that most neglect to attend to which prevents the tapers locking properly .
As for the shaking check the blades are not bent and they are properly located on the star on the blade spindle.
Hitting things hard enough to stop the engine often also damages the star on the spindle


#6

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

also if there is a burnt spot in the belt from slipping (striking the object), that can cause a vibration/ shaking as well.


#7

Omacrulzzz

Omacrulzzz

Thanks. I replaced the blades and it is still shaking. I'm gonna take the deck off today and check the spindles and the other pulleys today.


#8

F

FarmGeezer

Anytime I shear a flywheel key I always use valve lapping compound and lap the flywheel on the crank snout to get a good tight fit. aif the flywheel is a bit crooked due to missalignment will cause a vibration.


#9

Omacrulzzz

Omacrulzzz

FarmGeezer said:
Anytime I shear a flywheel key I always use valve lapping compound and lap the flywheel on the crank snout to get a good tight fit. aif the flywheel is a bit crooked due to missalignment will cause a vibration.
Click to expand...
Im gonna get some of that valve compund next time it breaks. Right now it seems like its holding tight.
It only vibrates with the blades engaged. It would vibrate all the time if it was the flywheel wouldn't it? That's why I was thinking it's the deck causing the problem now.


#10

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10 said:
also if there is a burnt spot in the belt from slipping (striking the object), that can cause a vibration/ shaking as well.
Click to expand...


#11

StarTech

StarTech

This one of the engines that Briggs had to redesign the flywheel and crankshaft. They issue a service bulletin on on it.

Two things were done to help resolve the shearing.
  • Change the flywheel key to a steel one. Both on the old style and new style.
  • Increase the flywheel retainer torque to 110 ft-lbs. Service manuals still list the old torque value.
Note I have seen at one flywheel on these to be busted where they meet the crankshaft.


#12

Omacrulzzz

Omacrulzzz

There was a burnt spot in the belt like you said. I put on a new belt and it seems tighter but still vibrating. I found a broken spring . It's the little spring that attaches to the idler. I looked at a diagram and it says it's the spring return idler. The idler shakes back and forth when the blades are engaged. I'm gonna get a new spring. Do you all think a broken spring could be responsible for the vibration?


#13

Omacrulzzz

Omacrulzzz

Omacrulzzz said:
There was a burnt spot in the belt like you said. I put on a new belt and it seems tighter but still vibrating. I found a broken spring . It's the little spring that attaches to the idler. I looked at a diagram and it says it's the spring return idler. The idler shakes back and forth when the blades are engaged. I'm gonna get a new spring. Do you all think a broken spring could be responsible for the vibration?
Click to expand...
I just replaced that idler return spring. It helped a little with the vibration. Still looks a little shaky to me, but the new blades, new belt, and new spring all seemed to decrease the vibration. Not sure what else to do at this point. I have another mower with a briggs engine and I cranked them up at the same time yo compare. The vibration doesn't look too significantly different I think.


#14

B

bertsmobile1

Omacrulzzz said:
There was a burnt spot in the belt like you said. I put on a new belt and it seems tighter but still vibrating. I found a broken spring . It's the little spring that attaches to the idler. I looked at a diagram and it says it's the spring return idler. The idler shakes back and forth when the blades are engaged. I'm gonna get a new spring. Do you all think a broken spring could be responsible for the vibration?
Click to expand...
No
All that the return spring does is to pull the idler back off the belt so it does not get damaged & the belt has no tension so it can slip on the engine pulley .
If the idler is bouncing then something is changing the tension and usually it will be a bit of crud stuck in the V of a pulley.
Bits of branches get caught then flattened down into the V and are hard to see.
However if you remove the belt and lay a long screwdriver in the V so it touched the pulley about 1" back from the tip of the blade then spin the pulley, and crud will cause the screwdriver to skip.
Some pulleys are made in 2 pieces riveted or welded together and these halves can split apart and that is also hard to see .


#15

Omacrulzzz

Omacrulzzz

bertsmobile1 said:
No
All that the return spring does is to pull the idler back off the belt so it does not get damaged & the belt has no tension so it can slip on the engine pulley .
If the idler is bouncing then something is changing the tension and usually it will be a bit of crud stuck in the V of a pulley.
Bits of branches get caught then flattened down into the V and are hard to see.
However if you remove the belt and lay a long screwdriver in the V so it touched the pulley about 1" back from the tip of the blade then spin the pulley, and crud will cause the screwdriver to skip.
Some pulleys are made in 2 pieces riveted or welded together and these halves can split apart and that is also hard to see .
Click to expand...
Ok. I'm gonna check that tomorrow before I crank it up again. I did have to clean crud from under the pulleys, but I didn't think to clean the v in the pulleys. Maybe I'll luck out and there's a pebble or piece of wood jammed in there. Thanks.


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