Briggs engine kicks back when starting, runs rough, hard to start. But Ignition module, spark plug, flywheel key are fine?

[Tinkerer200]

Good to know, thanks. I'll try and get the flywheel off without using the chisel and hammer. Maybe I finally invest in a proper puller.

The proper puller is cheap, a lot cheaper than a new engine. I have photo of using the pry and hit method resulting in hole in thin casting area under the flywheel as mentioned above by StarTech - not worth the chance and you can make your own puller for that matter.
Walt Conner

 

[PTmowerMech]

I just cringe at the thought doing this on today's thin crankcases and ultra light flywheels. I havedone split in two flywheels and hole in crankcases where a DIYer use the pry bar trick.

Just a note some the holes for pulling do need to be tapped for first time use.

It takes finesse. And a little luck.

 

[StarTech]

I do use flywheel knockers without a pry bar and a 2 lb brass hammer. Matter of fact I had several made for smaller flywheels and I use a harmonic balancer puller most of the larger ones. I did make one puller recently to get HydroGear pulley off out bar stock.

So far I had only one flywheel I couldn't remove but some idiot torqued it down with an impact and fused it to the crankshaft.

 

[PTmowerMech]

I would never do this without making sure the bottom of the pry bar being on something solid. And the end of it on the inside edge of the fly wheel. Start with a couple of small taps. Then increase as needed. I'll never just hit one with a lot of force. LOL. The crank is connected to some important parts inside.

 

[TylerFrankel1]

Put a pry bar under the fly wheel, screw the bolt back onto the crank until the crank is about 1/4in below the top of the nut. Then give it a whack or two. (the nut) It should pop off without having to hit it too hard. Easy peasy, japaneasy.

Just make sure you got the pry bar on something pretty solid. Taryl makes a pretty good video about this if you're unsure.

Taryl Dactal is awesome. Unfortunately he's taking a break during all the Corona nonsense. Anyway, yeah, I think I'll get a puller for safety reasons. Like I said something cracked on my scrap engine just the other day so I'm nervous now. Really hope the holes are already tapped.

 

[tom3]

If you have a buddy with a good back, have him (her?) lift the mower by the flywheel, give the top of the crank/nut a good whack with the hammer. By holding it this way the shock to the flywheel is cushioned and the weight and shock will pop the flywheel loose. I like to screw the nut down flush with the top of the crank if possible.

 

[PTmowerMech]

Taryl Dactal is awesome. Unfortunately he's taking a break during all the Corona nonsense. Anyway, yeah, I think I'll get a puller for safety reasons. Like I said something cracked on my scrap engine just the other day so I'm nervous now. Really hope the holes are already tapped.

You might give it a couple of taps with the hammer and pry bar method. Just to see. A lot of times, they don't need more than a couple of taps.

 

[TylerFrankel1]

You might give it a couple of taps with the hammer and pry bar method. Just to see. A lot of times, they don't need more than a couple of taps.

I did, nothing yet. I may also leave this one alone. I checked the blade again and apparently the boss was damaged and the blade wasn't flat. I straightened it out and it's much smoother now, though it runs a bit low on the RPMs. I think the timing is a smidge off.

I tried to create a puller this morning by drilling out the holes to 3/16, then tried to threat some long 1/4 bolts in. They weren't self tapping and sure enough it did not work. I think I'll go get a harbor freight puller set that will be good for all my jobs from now on.

 

[PTmowerMech]

I did, nothing yet. I may also leave this one alone. I checked the blade again and apparently the boss was damaged and the blade wasn't flat. I straightened it out and it's much smoother now, though it runs a bit low on the RPMs. I think the timing is a smidge off.

I tried to create a puller this morning by drilling out the holes to 3/16, then tried to threat some long 1/4 bolts in. They weren't self tapping and sure enough it did not work. I think I'll go get a harbor freight puller set that will be good for all my jobs from now on.

Then you have to show it who's boss, BY GOD!!!!!! Give it a good whack. LOLOLOLOL

 

[StarTech]

You're going to need to tap the holes anyway and don't buy HF tap and die set. They are lousy to say the least.

Self tapping screws can be made if you know how.