Briggs Coil Replacement, Restoration (Model 92502)

[TylerFrankel]

Couple quick points.

The blade acts as a second flywheel, sure would help eliminate the kickback you're seeing. And converting points to electronic ignition with the solid state coil does increase the spark advance a couple degrees, makes for a bit more power but could also be causing the kickback without the blade on the motor. Those old motors are probably the usual plain aluminum bores, need to use the correct oil for any life from that. Today's oils have eliminated much of the barrier lubrication needed for this design.
Working on these simple motors is interesting and even fun sometimes.

Well hello everyone! Thanks for all the replies. I got it to work today! I decided with much hesitation to take apart my new main lawnmower to use its deck. The other decks I have were literally rusted so hard that penetrating oil, hammers, impact drills, and 170LBS of man couldn't make their bolts budge. Hopefully I remember how to put it back together. Anyway, got the motor mounted and put the blade on, and after a good bit of pulling she revved right up and ran steadily until I pulled the spark plug cord off. It sounds strong enough to me, but I'm still going to drain the oil and re-add for safety, and replace the air filter, clean it up a bit, etc. Thanks everyone! I may be back to update on this engine, but I also have 3 others to repair. This is an awesome project and I can tell the spark was advanced, it seems to be a few degrees before TDC. Still worked out! Really appreciate everyones knowledge and advice.

 

[TylerFrankel]

Well hello everyone! Thanks for all the replies. I got it to work today! I decided with much hesitation to take apart my new main lawnmower to use its deck. The other decks I have were literally rusted so hard that penetrating oil, hammers, impact drills, and 170LBS of man couldn't make their bolts budge. Hopefully I remember how to put it back together. Anyway, got the motor mounted and put the blade on, and after a good bit of pulling she revved right up and ran steadily until I pulled the spark plug cord off. It sounds strong enough to me, but I'm still going to drain the oil and re-add for safety, and replace the air filter, clean it up a bit, etc. Thanks everyone! I may be back to update on this engine, but I also have 3 others to repair. This is an awesome project and I can tell the spark was advanced, it seems to be a few degrees before TDC. Still worked out! Really appreciate everyones knowledge and advice.

Quick Question:

How terribly important is it to measure how hard I torque bolts onto blade, engine head, sump, etc.? I don't have any way to measure, I've always just tightened everything until I can't tighten it more without standing up and leveraging (enough so that it takes a good bit of force to loosen but not too tight). I try to make it uniform tightening throughout and haven't had any trouble so far....

 

[tom3]

A short handle 3/8" ratchet on most engine bolts will get them about right, a 1/2" on the blade bolt, pretty snug on that. Most parts with a gasket don't need to be super tight, but evenly tightened is pretty important.

 

[TylerFrankel]

A short handle 3/8" ratchet on most engine bolts will get them about right, a 1/2" on the blade bolt, pretty snug on that. Most parts with a gasket don't need to be super tight, but evenly tightened is pretty important.

Good advice. Thanks man!

Today I started work on #2 since #1 is in working order. Its going to need a bit more work, as a suspicious level of oil made its way into the piston head, the points and condenser and/or coil aren't producing ANY spark, and the starter clutch is rusted to hell and back. Will be an interesting project. Post more soon! Thanks everyone!