What check procedure was used? Did you see them and call it good? Yup they're in there.....
You need to elaborate a little more so we can help you.
Did you check the clearances using your engine manual?
Briggs and Stratton vanguard 20 HP V twin spitting fuel
- Thread starter Ianv
- Start date
You need to elaborate a little more so we can help you.
Did you check the clearances using your engine manual?
Can you sit down, take a breath and write out what is exactly wrong with this engine?
Your sentence fragments are tough to cipher out.
Can you post all the engine numbers? Need more than the first and second digits.
When you had the valve cover off did U turn the engine by hand and watch the valves to make sure they are opening and closing like they should. Have friend that was having problems with one the would hit and run just a few licks and die. He replace the ign. modules and lifters wanted me to take a look for him. He wanted to do a cylinder leak down test which we were going to do but I suggested we take the valve cover off and turn the engine over and check the valves were opening and closing. We did this and neither exhaust valve was opening. Worn out cam. Might this be your problem? The valves can open a little but if they don't have the proper lift they won't run right.
Ianv
Forum Newbie
Right side of the carb spitting out fuel both cylinders are getting spark but the right cylinder isn’t firing I have been through the carb the float valve was working properly I also took off the valve cover valves are tight valves are moving as they should and both cylinders have good compression when I try to run the machine with just the right cylinder it rarely fires and doesn’t stay running
Last edited:
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Ian
In this order
1) check the valve lash on both cylinders
They must have some clearance on the firing stroke or the compressed charge will either blow out the muffler or back through the carb
2) If the lash is OK pull the kill wires from both coils , dead cylinder suddenly starts to work = bad diode in the kill wire
3) If that makes no difference swap the coils over left to right ( Plugs as well ). Problem shifts to the other side = dead coil
In this order
1) check the valve lash on both cylinders
They must have some clearance on the firing stroke or the compressed charge will either blow out the muffler or back through the carb
2) If the lash is OK pull the kill wires from both coils , dead cylinder suddenly starts to work = bad diode in the kill wire
3) If that makes no difference swap the coils over left to right ( Plugs as well ). Problem shifts to the other side = dead coil
So now the valves are tight? Thought the valves were good couple comments ago?
This is why we ask so many questions. People say for example are the cooling fins clean. I get a yes response. Later a picture of their engine gets posted and it's filthy.