Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust

gre1252

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
Hey All. I'm new to the forum so please excuse me if I mess up on any posting rules...

I have a Husqvarna YTH24v48 with a Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin engine model 44N877-0003-G1 170815YG. I've been living with a persistent afterfire from the exhaust port on cyclinder 2 since August 2019. The lawnmower was purchased with a damaged steering assembly from a thrift store with almost no hours (9-11) on it. The engine seems to run strong under load but I can't seem to find the cause of the afterfire.

The issue seems to be almost identical to the following post on this forum and youtube video:
When the engine runs on only one cylinder the afterfire goes away and it doesn't matter which cylinder. When both spark plugs are connected the afterfire returns only to cylinder 2. I have comfirmed the afterfire with the muffler off. The only difference between cylinder 1 and 2 is that cylinder 2 has higher compression by about 8%.

I have been through a bunch of engine tests, which I'll list at the end, but I haven't been able to see anything but a healthy new engine. I finally took the carburetor off for inspection based on the forum post above having the wrong carburetor. The only thing I found was slightly damaged float bowl gasket (698781) on a round section that did not seal anything. I replaced the gasket just in case, but it still continues to afterfire. The carburetor was very clean and nothing else seemed to be restricted or damage. I cleaned the carb anyway but nothing has changed. I plan on inspecting the fuel delivery, but I'm pretty much stuck except for invasive exploratory disassembly of the engine (cylinder head, camshaft.)

I would appreciate any help with this issue because I'm losing sleep over this. The only thing that stops the popping
and afterfire is running on one cylinder. Thanks in advance.

[Engine Tests Performed]
static compression test
dynamic (running) compression test
leak down test
cylinder contribution test with tachometer
ignition spark tester check
ignition diode check
ignition armature corrosion cleaning
ignition armature gap check
spark plug condition and gap check
ignition wire leak check
swap ignition coils
smoke test intake
smoke test exhaust cylinder 2
visual inspect exhaust valve chamber cyl 2
PB Blaster LMT Cylinder 2
Sta-Bil Fix It
Seafoam in Gas
PB LMT through Intake
Valve lash adjusment .005 Int/Exh
Valve guide check
Bent Push Rod inspection
Valve movement check with both covers remove
Flywheel sheer key inspection
New spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter
Clean emulsion tube with wire and carb cleaner
Clean main jet with wire
Blew transfer tube with compressed air
Cleaned air inlets of carb with wire and carb cleaner
Blew carb air inlets with compressed air
Checked backfire solenoid
Inspected float bowl needle
Clean idle circuit with wire and carb cleaner
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
If the problem goes away when the kill wires are removed then one of the diodes in the kill wire is bad.
Replace them both
the pigtail is about $ 50 ( Aus) the diodes are 20¢ .
 

DaveTN

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
Hi and Welcome to the LMF! You sound quite knowledgeable
and thorough. Sounds like folks will be asking you about
things soon.
 

Tinkerer200

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
Welcome from east central Illinois,

Walt Conner
 

gre1252

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
Thanks. I'm just a diy with a few acres to cut. I still have a lot to learn.

I did run the engine with the diode pack removed and the problem remained. I double checked the diodes with a meter according to the shop manual (273521) and they both passed. I cleaned and re-gap the armatures just to be sure and it still afterfire. I swapped the coils and the afterfire remained on cylinder 2.

The only strange thing I experience was with connecting to the kill switch terminal with a tachometer. At low speeds the needle held steady, but at high rpms the needle would fluctuate down wildly with cyl 2 backfire on either coil. I had to connect the inline spark tester (run on one cylinder) and I was able to get a steady reading on the active cylinder. I think I just needed a better tachometer that reads from the secondary coil.

Any theories on why the carb (single barrel) is the culprit? I don't see any signs of running lean on the spark plugs. Cylinder 1 has a normal tan color, but cylinder 2 has a little burnt on oil on the threads and a normal grey color. The orientation of the spark plug show it's coming from the intake valve...
 

DaveTN

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
Just curious if you could borrow a 'known good carb' that would
fit that engine and try it just to eliminate the carburetor?
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
I think we have a communication problem here
Diode pack ?
there are 3 places you find diodes on mower with a B &S engine
1) on the alternator either as a single diode or a rectifier
2) on the kill wires between the two magneto coils
3) on the PTO circuit , usually hidden under the dash
 

gre1252

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
I think we have a communication problem here
Diode pack ?
there are 3 places you find diodes on mower with a B &S engine
1) on the alternator either as a single diode or a rectifier
2) on the kill wires between the two magneto coils
3) on the PTO circuit , usually hidden under the dash

I ran it with the kill wires removed and it continued to backfire. I did not mess with the alternator rectifier(regulator) or the pto circuit.
 

gre1252

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
Just curious if you could borrow a 'known good carb' that would
fit that engine and try it just to eliminate the carburetor?
I have an old nikki double barrel that's running rich on a Murray.
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Persistent Popping and Afterfire from Exhaust
I ran it with the kill wires removed and it continued to backfire. I did not mess with the alternator rectifier(regulator) or the pto circuit.
Swap the coils left right & see if the problem shifts with them
 
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