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Model: 31F707 Type: 0112E1 Code: 0301167E

Ok, Ive adjusted the valves 10 times and same result. Turns over fine without the spark plug in it with the key, but put the plug back in and it only makes one revolution. I'm not sure what to do. I used the same youtube video I used when I did the headgasket on the last Briggs I worked on.

Any suggestions? I read somewhere about a decompression valve or something. I'm not afraid to open this motor up as I have done it before on another Briggs. Just don't want to waste my time til I know for sure.

Ok which video are you watching for a valve adjust ?? I am like a cat and I'm curious.... LOL

Are the rocker arms moving ALL the way with the valves when you turn it by hand to make sure the push rods are in the right place ???

Yes the ACR just might be all over in the sump and you don't have any compression release at all... Years ago we used to jump with a huge diesel battery to really have the amps to turn that HARD to start engine over.... If the rods were moving like they should then we knew that a ACR was messed up.........

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Ok which video are you watching for a valve adjust ?? I am like a cat and I'm curious.... LOL

Are the rocker arms moving ALL the way with the valves when you turn it by hand to make sure the push rods are in the right place ???

Yes the ACR just might be all over in the sump and you don't have any compression release at all... Years ago we used to jump with a huge diesel battery to really have the amps to turn that HARD to start engine over.... If the rods were moving like they should then we knew that a ACR was messed up.........

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

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This one here. Yes, I can see the valves opening and closing.


https://youtu.be/atQZFrcBMj8

JonnyBlaze said:

This one here. Yes, I can see the valves opening and closing.


https://youtu.be/atQZFrcBMj8

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JOHNNY, JOHNNY, JOHNNY, ..... What am I to do with you ..?? ..:laughing:..:laughing:
NOT that video, ECCChhhh ! try this one by Taryl, forget all that 1/4 in bullschitt ! follow this video and watch it a few times if necessary ! let us know the outcome !! ...... Boo .......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pl5vNccJwQs&feature=youtu.be ..... VALVES ADJUST STARTS @ ABOUT 35:44

HERES ANOTHER .....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PEUt_KAcYk&t=21s

You still there John ..???

Yes. I'm going to mess with it again in a little bit.

I used that second video in your last post, Boo. Here's a video I made this morning.

https://youtu.be/DMSitIBmQnM

JonnyBlaze said:

I used that second video in your last post, Boo. Here's a video I made this morning.

https://youtu.be/DMSitIBmQnM

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Did it ever start ?? make sure you have spark and give it a shot of gas in the carb, then try it ..?? let us know EVERYTHING that's going on ........ didn't forget about the "safety switches" .. RIGHT ..??

Boobala said:

Did it ever start ?? make sure you have spark and give it a shot of gas in the carb, then try it ..?? let us know EVERYTHING that's going on ........ didn't forget about the "safety switches" .. RIGHT ..??

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No. That was with the spark plug out.

WELLLLLL put the dang thing together and let's GITTTER-DUN !! ..:thumbsup:

Boobala said:

WELLLLLL put the dang thing together and let's GITTTER-DUN !! ..:thumbsup:

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Not sure what to do next.

John ARE YOU PLAYIN GAMES ..??
put the valve cover back on, put the plug back in, put a shot of gas in the carb, climb in the seat THROTTLE WIDE OPEN ( you put gas in the carb...RIGHT ...?? ) turn the &^%$#@#$#@ key and bring that thing to life already !!

Its STILL doing the same thing! It only spins over without the spark plug in it!

JonnyBlaze said:

This one here. Yes, I can see the valves opening and closing.


https://youtu.be/atQZFrcBMj8

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Good they are opening and closing, but is the inlet opening a second time , just a tiny bit just before TDC to decompress th cylinder.
If not the decompression mechanism is not working.
If the engine does not decompress then the starter motor can not spin the engine fast enough to start it.

bertsmobile1 said:

Good they are opening and closing, but is the inlet opening a second time , just a tiny bit just before TDC to decompress th cylinder.
If not the decompression mechanism is not working.
If the engine does not decompress then the starter motor can not spin the engine fast enough to start it.

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I swear I saw it move just a little bit. If it's not the decompression mech, then what am I doing wrong? I've done this before on another mower. Same motor.

STRANGE .. we have 2 members with the same problem at the same time !!! Well john it's beginning to look like it may be something INTERNAL , like Bert said a broken compression release, or worn camshaft , the push-rods APPEAR to look OK. I know we went through the valve adjustment procedure before ...

Right. Thanks. So I'll order a gasket set and dig into it and see what I find inside.

Yep like I told you last nite on the phone if you have full travel on both Push Rods then your ACR is sitting in the bottom of your sump............

JonnyBlaze said:

Right. Thanks. So I'll order a gasket set and dig into it and see what I find inside.

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John I have NOT checked the parts list for YOUR MODEL of engine, but the compression release may be part of the camshaft, just a heads up in case you need to order that as well...... I believe you have the Parts Manual for that engine .. ??

Boobala said:

John I have NOT checked the parts list for YOUR MODEL of engine, but the compression release may be part of the camshaft, just a heads up in case you need to order that as well...... I believe you have the Parts Manual for that engine .. ??

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Yes, Its part of the camshaft. I have what I need. I will crack it open tomorrow and confirm. Thanks.

Keep us up-dated ........ :thumbsup:

Bingo! You guys were right again!

YUP ..... sure as hell, good thing there was no severe damage done, OK John, we'll be here if ya need us, posting a Taryl fixes camshaft link, ( just in case you want furher help) ...... as usual, keep us updated.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWHPHGZAvj4

Yep... Just like I told you 4 nights ago on the phone, if your travel is right then the release is shot...........

Now a good cleanout and a KEEN eye for some damage, which I doubt there is any and that new cam we were talking about last nite on the phone and you gonna be in great shape..........

Remember if you put any sealant on the sump make sure it's the black rtv and just a very thin application....

Thanks for the reply Mon Ami ~!~!

Thank you guys. Ordered the cam and gasket set. I'll keep you informed. Parts will probably be here next week. I'll clean it up real good in the meantime. Havent seen any damage yet.

That's a good thing no damage.... The release is close to the bottom of the engine so when it comes loose it usually just stays on the bottom....

In fact I was on the phone with one of my distributors today and told him that you were close to him and what your problem was...

He said that is the most sold cam he has ever seen ~!~! You got a real good deal on the one you found with the sump gasket included too and the tappets .......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Don't forget to pick-up some assembly-lube .... :thumbsup:

I ordered an 8oz bottle of Lucas assembly lube on ebay for $4.65 and free shipping.

JonnyBlaze said:

I ordered an 8oz bottle of Lucas assembly lube on ebay for $4.65 and free shipping.

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Just be sure you use the lube for engine assembly, and NOT for your "Extra-Curricular" activities !! .. :laughing:..:laughing:

JonnyBlaze said:

I ordered an 8oz bottle of Lucas assembly lube on ebay for $4.65 and free shipping.

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Ah you remembered when I told you about my Lucas oil......... Good stuff ~!~!

Boobala said:

Just be sure you use the lube for engine assembly, and NOT for your "Extra-Curricular" activities !! .. :laughing:..:laughing:

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Ima lube up the old camshaft and send it to ya!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Ah you remembered when I told you about my Lucas oil......... Good stuff ~!~!

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Yup! Thanks!

Just be sure you use the lube for engine assembly, and NOT for your "Extra-Curricular" activities !! .. ..

Ima lube up the old camshaft and send it to ya!

Naaah ... seems Boudreau is "HOT" for it though !! ... :laughing:..:laughing:..:laughing:..:laughing:

( The "Rainbow-Renegades )

So this motor doesn't have an oil pump or oil filter. Can I just use one of my spare sumps that has all that or not worry about it?

Go back with the original sump ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Go back with the original sump ~!~!

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Will do.

Motor is back together. I'll bolt it in and try firing it up tomorrow.

C'mon already John, I can't hold my breath any longer .. :laughing:..:laughing:

Sorry. Been busy. Didn't get to it today. Bought 3 more john deere's and sold one. Tomorrow.

Still doing it. Wtf. Here's a video. About to give up. https://youtu.be/41AP9U3WNwM

Well the video doesn't show much, what is it doing .. .or NOT doing, checked the battery, ?? test the starter OFF the engine ..??
ya can't start it by turning it with a ratchet !! ... ( LOL ) ... :laughing:..:laughing:
I know you're a decent mech. what do YOU think the problem is ..???

It's still only turning over 1 revolution at a time with the key. When I remove the spark plug, it turns over like it should. Battery and everything is good. Not sure what problem is.

:welcome:

Pull the rocker cover off and adjust the valve lash.
They get bigger over time and that defeats the decompression .
The starters are weak on mowers and can not overcome full compression.

bertsmobile1 said:

:welcome:

Pull the rocker cover off and adjust the valve lash.
They get bigger over time and that defeats the decompression .
The starters are weak on mowers and can not overcome full compression.

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Lol

John it's got to be something to do with that compression release, connected with the valve-train components, including the camshaft, you did get the timing marks on the crank and cam lined up .. RIGHT ??

Boobala said:

John it's got to be something to do with that compression release, connected with the valve-train components, including the camshaft, you did get the timing marks on the crank and cam lined up .. RIGHT ??

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Yes. I did.

If it really spins good without the plug, ..... everything SHOULD be .. pointing to timing, magnet on flywheel is positioned at the coil at/ near TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke ..?? valve GUIDES were in correct position in the head ..?? valves not bent or dragging ..?? re-check rocker arms correctly installed .. ?? I can't figure this out, worst case scenario ..... is a teardown and reassembly following the Manual step by step.... SOMETHING somewhere is amiss !!

:confused2:..:confused2:

In your last video you posted the exhaust valve wasn't moving to release the compression. There was no bump on the exhaust valve on the compression stroke. To it to top dead center on the compression stroke loosen the valves. Remember the exhaust is on the top and intake is the bottom on the s's. Readjust the valves. You might have adjusted them on the wrong stroke is what might have happened or the cam is installed wrong. Intake .003 exhaust .005

Luffydog said:

In your last video you posted the exhaust valve wasn't moving to release the compression. There was no bump on the exhaust valve on the compression stroke. To it to top dead center on the compression stroke loosen the valves. Remember the exhaust is on the top and intake is the bottom on the s's. Readjust the valves. You might have adjusted them on the wrong stroke is what might have happened or the cam is installed wrong. Intake .003 exhaust .005

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How do I know that I'm on the compression stroke?

Take the plug so you can roll the engine over easily by hand. Watch the valves the one on the bottom is your intake valve it will go down which is open then it will close at that point put your finger over the plug hole you should feel air pushing out when you feel the air stop put and small screw driver in the plug hole then keep turning the engine by hand it should push the screw driver out but be careful because it might get caught on the piston. Now when turning it should push it out but when your slowing turning the engine at some point the screw driver should stop coming out that should be top dead center. If you keep turning you will feel the screw driver go down if you have to then back it back up. The easiest way you can tell is. The valve on the top is the exhaust valve turn the engine over by hand watch it and it will open keep turning it will close and then the bottom will open that's the intake stroke and then it will close and then the piston should be down put your screw driver in the plug hole and then turn the engine over by hand until the screw driver starts coming out to the farther point without go back in or down in the cyclinder at that point you should be tdc on the compression stroke and should set your valves. Bottom valve which is intake .003 and the top valve which is your exhaust .005 this should get your valves to spec. Now there is and 9/16 or 5/8 nut there and that is not how you adjust them. There should be a set screw in the middle of that nut. Loosen it and now turn the nut to the adjustment per valve you are on. Then hold nut and turn the set screw in. Make sure that the little caps are there and you adjust them while they are on.

Ok I'm back I was trying to hook up a printer KODAK and it's at lest 9 years old... Scanner, Copier and printer all in one... Downloading software for the unit and it doesn't print..... New ink but no go... It won't print.......

Ok Johnny Blaze, like Luff dog said did you put your caps back on......... I don't do the TDC and the 1/4 past TDC method......

Plus I do 4 thou on each one.... Never had a issue with doing it that way........ All the other dealers in my area do it the same as I do...........

I know you already know how to set valves...... But here is the way a lot of people do it and is the simplest way........

https://youtu.be/8PEUt_KAcYk

Call me tomorrow evening and let me know........ Oh let us know on here too...........

Plus Tard Mon Ami

Motor is done! Runs great! Think the transmission is toast thoygh. Lucky I have a parts machine. It's a JD L100 5 speed. Struggling to move in any gear and no brakes. It does move but struggles.

https://youtu.be/v9T9_jaYKRM

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Ok I'm back I was trying to hook up a printer KODAK and it's at lest 9 years old... Scanner, Copier and printer all in one... Downloading software for the unit and it doesn't print..... New ink but no go... It won't print.......

Ok Johnny Blaze, like Luff dog said did you put your caps back on......... I don't do the TDC and the 1/4 past TDC method......

Plus I do 4 thou on each one.... Never had a issue with doing it that way........ All the other dealers in my area do it the same as I do...........

I know you already know how to set valves...... But here is the way a lot of people do it and is the simplest way........

https://youtu.be/8PEUt_KAcYk

Call me tomorrow evening and let me know........ Oh let us know on here too...........

Plus Tard Mon Ami

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John, ... do you watch and UNDERSTAND the video's ..?? I sent 2 ( TWO ) video's of how to do the valves adjust in POST # 4, .. Bert sent another in POST # 14, ... I sent it AGAIN, in POST # 23 easy way to tell if you're on the COMPRESSION stroke, is remove the engine shroud and the spark-plug, put your fat finger or thumb over the plug hole and rotate the flywheel with your other hand, when you feel your finger being pushed off the plug hole the piston is coming up for either EXHAUST or COMPRESSION, now look at the outside edge of the flywheel, if the magnet ( built into the flywheel ) is at, or really close to the coil, it's the COMPRESSION stroke, if on the EXHAUST stroke, the magnet will be APPROX 180 degrees from the coil. ... comprende, gabeesh, understand ..?? .. :thumbsup:

Boobala said:

John, ... do you watch and UNDERSTAND the video's ..?? I sent 2 ( TWO ) video's of how to do the valves adjust in POST # 4, .. Bert sent another in POST # 14, ... I sent it AGAIN, in POST # 23 easy way to tell if you're on the COMPRESSION stroke, is remove the engine shroud and the spark-plug, put your fat finger or thumb over the plug hole and rotate the flywheel with your other hand, when you feel your finger being pushed off the plug hole the piston is coming up for either EXHAUST or COMPRESSION, now look at the outside edge of the flywheel, if the magnet ( built into the flywheel ) is at, or really close to the coil, it's the COMPRESSION stroke, if on the EXHAUST stroke, the magnet will be APPROX 180 degrees from the coil. ... comprende, gabeesh, understand ..?? .. :thumbsup:

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Yes, I said I got it running. Lol.

OK .... so it takes ya 11 times to set the valves, ..... that's just at borderline ACCEPTABLE ! ... :laughing:..:laughing:..:laughing:

Boobala said:

OK .... so it takes ya 11 times to set the valves, ..... that's just at borderline ACCEPTABLE ! ... :laughing:..:laughing:..:laughing:

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Atleast I got it. Lol. What's wrong with my transmission? No tension on drive belt with brake on.

OYYYY VAAAAY !! Holy SCHITT John, YOU of all posters should KNOW !! MODEL NUMBER of Mower PLEEEEZE ! .. :laughing:..:laughing:

Have you checked the fluid level ?? On the other hand, it may be grease only, ... NEED MOWER model Numbers !!

Boobala said:

OYYYY VAAAAY !! Holy SCHITT John, YOU of all posters should KNOW !! MODEL NUMBER of Mower PLEEEEZE ! .. :laughing:..:laughing:

Have you checked the fluid level ?? On the other hand, it may be grease only, ... NEED MOWER model Numbers !!

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I posted it above. L100a John Deere. 5 speed.

JonnyBlaze said:

I posted it above. L100a John Deere. 5 speed.

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LA100 is the SERIES John, NOT the model number, look under the seat or on the frame-body areas of tractor near where your LEFT foot goes on the floorboard, I'm not sure, .......... but there has to be a sticker on it somewhere saying MODEL & SERIAL #

Here is the model number pic. I got tension on the belt now but now I can't get it in neutral. The lever is in neutral but acting like brake is on. I've been messing with the brake lever on side of transmission but no difference v

JonnyBlaze said:

Here is the model number pic. I got tension on the belt now but now I can't get it in neutral. The lever is in neutral but acting like brake is on. I've been messing with the brake lever on side of transmission but no difference v

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MY deepest, most sincere, heart-wrenching, Apology is all I can offer ! .. :laughing:..:laughing: I will TRY ... to find some info on YOUR model !

What did you do to get it going there Jonny?

Well, I broke something off the housing in the old transmission. Spent most of the night swapping in a used one out my parts machine. Now I'm back to square one. Brake doesn't work and rolls in every gear. Smh. Like it's in neutral.

Luffydog said:

What did you do to get it going there Jonny?

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Adjusted the valves a million times.

Good deal now you have some good practice