Briggs 16 HP I/C

[mmoffitt]

First thing I thought was ..."Why"? it If it ain't broke don't fix it! proper maintenance goes a long lon

Unless you’re experiencing problems, not just worrying about age or what might be, I would NOT recommend tearing into the engine. This could get expensive very easily. Here’s why.
1. If you’re doing one cylinder, best to do both. This would double cost.
2. I’ve rebuilt more engines than most people and have found if the cylinders are still in spec, they still need to be glazed honed. Would need to buy a one time use tool and after done what do yo do with it.
3. I’ve seen more than one time DIY guys do more harm than good if they are not experienced.
4. Do you do with the engine and piece of equipment if you do screw up.
5. You will also have to purchase gaskets, 2 head, 1 pan gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, etc.
6. This is not a TWO hour job. Site unseen, I would normally soft quote 6-10 hours labor. I‘m never surprised by what I find after I start. More than once I’ve had to call the customer and say, “it’s not worth it.
I recommend you think long and hard before starting this project, just my opinion.

g w

Unless you’re experiencing problems, not just worrying about age or what might be, I would NOT recommend tearing into the engine. This could get expensive very easily. Here’s why.
1. If you’re doing one cylinder, best to do both. This would double cost.
2. I’ve rebuilt more engines than most people and have found if the cylinders are still in spec, they still need to be glazed honed. Would need to buy a one time use tool and after done what do yo do with it.
3. I’ve seen more than one time DIY guys do more harm than good if they are not experienced.
4. Do you do with the engine and piece of equipment if you do screw up.
5. You will also have to purchase gaskets, 2 head, 1 pan gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, etc.
6. This is not a TWO hour job. Site unseen, I would normally soft quote 6-10 hours labor. I‘m never surprised by what I find after I start. More than once I’ve had to call the customer and say, “it’s not worth it.
I recommend you think long and hard before starting this project, just my opinion.

First thing I thought was "Why"? what would make you tear something apart that is working just fine?? If it ain't broke don't fix it. proper maintenance goes a long , long way....be safe and well out there everyone

 

[Gord Baker]

I have a 16 HP I/C engine in my Simplicity 5216H. Bought new in 1986. Engine model 402707 0145 01. The engine is getting a bit tired and I'd like to re-ring it. Compression is 90 lbs in both cylinders, factory cross hatching is still visible on the cylinder walls. The engine runs fine, just down a bit on power. I've been looking for rings but Briggs doesn't list a part number for rings for this engine. After looking at the various models listed in the factory service manual it looks like rings with a part number 393277 should fit this engine. Any thoughts out there on how I can make sure these rings will fit, or does anyone know what the part number is for rings for my engine? The engine is still together and blowing snow here in central New York. Any feedback will be appreciated.

I think you should leave the Engine alone.

 

[kjonxx]

I have a 16 HP I/C engine in my Simplicity 5216H. Bought new in 1986. Engine model 402707 0145 01. The engine is getting a bit tired and I'd like to re-ring it. Compression is 90 lbs in both cylinders, factory cross hatching is still visible on the cylinder walls. The engine runs fine, just down a bit on power. I've been looking for rings but Briggs doesn't list a part number for rings for this engine. After looking at the various models listed in the factory service manual it looks like rings with a part number 393277 should fit this engine. Any thoughts out there on how I can make sure these rings will fit, or does anyone know what the part number is for rings for my engine? The engine is still together and blowing snow here in central New York. Any feedback will be appreciated.

394959 is std rings for 18 to 20 hp

 

[jd345lx188]

I've more than once had the experience of "It wasn't broke UNTIL I fixed it"

 

[Tornadoman]

Thanks slomo. I will check valve clearance. Easier than a big teardown. I do keep the cooling fins and block clean. And, my 45 year old Craftsman compression tester seems to works pretty well on everything: 1974 Sportster, '69 Charger (440 CI) and all small engines . Appreciate the feedback.

Before adjusting the valves, loosen the adjustment and rotate them some to clean off any accumulated carbon. Also, a light tap with a small hammer in the direction they open will help jar any carbon loose. Also, is there an automatic compression release? It will cause a low reading. A real pain on my 15hp Kohler! I would not tear into a good-running engine with no smoke. With the experience you listed, I'm sure you know how to squirt some oil into the cylinder and check compression to see if rings are the problem?

 

[Forest#2]

Old thread.

Might just be throttle/governor linkage adjustments. (engine rpms too low at max throttle.
The adjustment procedures are listed in the Briggs L-head SERVICE manual.

 

[mechanic mark]

Old thread.

Might just be throttle/governor linkage adjustments. (engine rpms too low at max throttle.
The adjustment procedures are listed in the Briggs L-head SERVICE manual.

NLA on the rings, a new engine will be your best bet, $ wise & less down time.

 

[RevB]

I have a 16 HP I/C engine in my Simplicity 5216H. Bought new in 1986. Engine model 402707 0145 01. The engine is getting a bit tired and I'd like to re-ring it. Compression is 90 lbs in both cylinders, factory cross hatching is still visible on the cylinder walls. The engine runs fine, just down a bit on power. I've been looking for rings but Briggs doesn't list a part number for rings for this engine. After looking at the various models listed in the factory service manual it looks like rings with a part number 393277 should fit this engine. Any thoughts out there on how I can make sure these rings will fit, or does anyone know what the part number is for rings for my engine? The engine is still together and blowing snow here in central New York. Any feedback will be appreciated.

Rivets and Tiger: I agree 100%. The engine runs good and I don't need to tear it down for naught. As an old friend and great mechanic says, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". I appreciate all the feedback and input. Meanwhile, I'll be fixing the rear tire that went flat while snowblowing this morning Always something.

90 is just fine. Unless you're blowing out copius amounts of smoke and using oil like crazy. FYI.....in a lot of Continental piston aircraft engines the absolute minimum is 40lb, not the differential testers 40. Combustion pressures will push the rings into the cylinder wall and you'll have a much higher effective cylinder pressure if the ring lands aren't badly worn or the rings aren't broken.

 

[Freddie21]

Try a leak down test on both cylinders. More accurate than compression especially for ring leak.

 

[Red Good]

Make sure you have the throttle wide open while doing the test as well as all the other spark plugs out to reduce rolling resistance . Put the plugs in the caps and lay them on the heads while doing it . Jmho