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I have a 16 HP I/C engine in my Simplicity 5216H. Bought new in 1986. Engine model 402707 0145 01. The engine is getting a bit tired and I'd like to re-ring it. Compression is 90 lbs in both cylinders, factory cross hatching is still visible on the cylinder walls. The engine runs fine, just down a bit on power. I've been looking for rings but Briggs doesn't list a part number for rings for this engine. After looking at the various models listed in the factory service manual it looks like rings with a part number 393277 should fit this engine. Any thoughts out there on how I can make sure these rings will fit, or does anyone know what the part number is for rings for my engine? The engine is still together and blowing snow here in central New York. Any feedback will be appreciated.

Proper valve adjustment on the tight side of in-tolerance would be advised. See what you get after with a compression gauge FOR SMALL ENGINES. Not some 454 chevy compression gauge with a foot long hose.

Thanks slomo. I will check valve clearance. Easier than a big teardown. I do keep the cooling fins and block clean. And, my 45 year old Craftsman compression tester seems to works pretty well on everything: 1974 Sportster, '69 Charger (440 CI) and all small engines . Appreciate the feedback.

simpleandy said:

Thanks slomo. I will check valve clearance. Easier than a big teardown. I do keep the cooling fins and block clean. And, my 45 year old Craftsman compression tester seems to works pretty well on everything: 1974 Sportster, '69 Charger (440 CI) and all small engines . Appreciate the feedback.

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Is the engine burning oil, if so, is it excessive? Is it smoking? Do compression test wet and dry. Dry test is normal, wet test is add a bit of oil down spark plug hole, then perform compression test. Does the compression go up with wet test, if so, how much?

Tiger Small Engine said:

Is the engine burning oil, if so, is it excessive? Is it smoking? Do compression test wet and dry. Dry test is normal, wet test is add a bit of oil down spark plug hole, then perform compression test. Does the compression go up with wet test, if so, how much?

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a 10 % rise would be expected normal wet. Not prior comment on gauge and speed of rotation and number of compression cycles.

Compression was done dry. Six or seven cranks with electric starter (until reading reached max). Engine does not smoke or use an excessive amount of oil. About what I would expect from a 39 year old engine that has been used year round for mowing and snowblowing (500 ft driveway in central New York). I'll do the wet test to see what the difference is. It's a great engine and just want to freshen it up for a few more years. Which is about about what I have

simpleandy said:

Thanks slomo. I will check valve clearance. Easier than a big teardown. I do keep the cooling fins and block clean. And, my 45 year old Craftsman compression tester seems to works pretty well on everything: 1974 Sportster, '69 Charger (440 CI) and all small engines . Appreciate the feedback.

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Yes yours will work on your engines. Is it the "proper" tool for small engines, no. Will you get a reading with yours yes. You want a stub gauge for small engines. A foot long hose will skew your reading.

Unless you’re experiencing problems, not just worrying about age or what might be, I would NOT recommend tearing into the engine. This could get expensive very easily. Here’s why.
1. If you’re doing one cylinder, best to do both. This would double cost.
2. I’ve rebuilt more engines than most people and have found if the cylinders are still in spec, they still need to be glazed honed. Would need to buy a one time use tool and after done what do yo do with it.
3. I’ve seen more than one time DIY guys do more harm than good if they are not experienced.
4. Do you do with the engine and piece of equipment if you do screw up.
5. You will also have to purchase gaskets, 2 head, 1 pan gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, etc.
6. This is not a TWO hour job. Site unseen, I would normally soft quote 6-10 hours labor. I‘m never surprised by what I find after I start. More than once I’ve had to call the customer and say, “it’s not worth it.
I recommend you think long and hard before starting this project, just my opinion.

Rivets said:

Unless you’re experiencing problems, not just worrying about age or what might be, I would NOT recommend tearing into the engine. This could get expensive very easily. Here’s why.
1. If you’re doing one cylinder, best to do both. This would double cost.
2. I’ve rebuilt more engines than most people and have found if the cylinders are still in spec, they still need to be glazed honed. Would need to buy a one time use tool and after done what do yo do with it.
3. I’ve seen more than one time DIY guys do more harm than good if they are not experienced.
4. Do you do with the engine and piece of equipment if you do screw up.
5. You will also have to purchase gaskets, 2 head, 1 pan gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, etc.
6. This is not a TWO hour job. Site unseen, I would normally soft quote 6-10 hours labor. I‘m never surprised by what I find after I start. More than once I’ve had to call the customer and say, “it’s not worth it.
I recommend you think long and hard before starting this project, just my opinion.

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Unless you want the experience and have the time and money, I agree with not “rebuilding “ engine.

Rivets and Tiger: I agree 100%. The engine runs good and I don't need to tear it down for naught. As an old friend and great mechanic says, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". I appreciate all the feedback and input. Meanwhile, I'll be fixing the rear tire that went flat while snowblowing this morning Always something.

Really think you are jumping the gun here. Set the valves proper. See what you have after. 90psi with a compression release cam, if yours has one, sounds good to me. A Briggs can run on 35psi LOL.

simpleandy said:

The engine runs fine, just down a bit on power.

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Compared to what?

Are you sure you are getting full throttle? Would not surprise me that the throttle cable/linkage is set improper. Or the choke is coming on partially and you don't know it.

Betting she is all carboned up internally. Carbon chunks sitting on the back sides of the valves killing airflow into the cylinder/s. An engine this old from 1986 will be loaded with carbon cholesterol. Your engine manual probably states to de-carbon the cylinder/s say at 5 year service intervals. Bet the head/s have never been off. Could be wrong here.

Dull blades can degrade performance.

Slipping belts can degrade performance.

Dead pulleys and bearings can degrade performance.

Low tire pressure can degrade performance.

An off brand air filter can degrade performance. For that matter I've seen OEM filters act like the choke was on. Clean looking paper pleats all around. Changed the filter and she returned to full glory.

Wrong blade type with your deck can degrade performance.