Thank you for a very clear an concise explanation that tells me my errors and how to adjust the brakes alone without fussing with the clutch engagement! I have also ordered a pair of those Tecumseh brake pads. When they arrive I will let you all know what I find. Thanks again!
Buying Advice Brake pads and rotor for 1992 Craftsman lawn tractor?
- Thread starter Blaine B.
- Start date
Thank you for a very clear an concise explanation that tells me my errors and how to adjust the brakes alone without fussing with the clutch engagement! I have also ordered a pair of those Tecumseh brake pads. When they arrive I will let you all know what I find. Thanks again!
I received the replacement brake pads today. To be honest, they are actually a little bit shorter than the old pads, but they do fit, as their width is the correct size. I actually found that the old brake pads were two different lengths - the length of the pad that sits in the transmission case is different than the pad that sits in the brake caliper. I also noticed that the brake pad that sits in the transmission case was more worn. So anyway, I installed the new, shorter replacement pads and everything seems to be good. The caliper pins were actually in very good condition without any dirt or rust to bind them up. I was actually surprised how clean everything was for being 27 years old.
I can't exactly tell where the jamb nuts were located on the shaft for the spring, as there is no difference in coloration of the threads. So, I backed them off, but the next time I cut I may have to adjust them.
I also have adjusted nut #50 in the past that tensions the cam for the brake pins before. However this time it seems to be more effective with the new brake pads. This is actually a very interesting system that relies entirely upon friction. Very simple, though.
And lastly, the shaft that protrudes from the transmission case is actually not splined on my model. It has a key and key way, very similar to the rear axle shafts. The rotor in turn has a slot for the key to fit in to.
So, I do plan on cutting tomorrow so may have some more adjustments to do. I will try to fine tune it so that there is not a harsh engagement between clutch and brake. As you mention it should be relatively smooth and not jerky. My transition was jerky before, unless I was very easy on letting off of the pedal. Sometimes it makes me wish I had a hydraulic transmission, but then again this is my first lawn tractor ever, and at that, a relatively inexpensive $200, 27 year old lawn tractor.
I can't exactly tell where the jamb nuts were located on the shaft for the spring, as there is no difference in coloration of the threads. So, I backed them off, but the next time I cut I may have to adjust them.
I also have adjusted nut #50 in the past that tensions the cam for the brake pins before. However this time it seems to be more effective with the new brake pads. This is actually a very interesting system that relies entirely upon friction. Very simple, though.
And lastly, the shaft that protrudes from the transmission case is actually not splined on my model. It has a key and key way, very similar to the rear axle shafts. The rotor in turn has a slot for the key to fit in to.
So, I do plan on cutting tomorrow so may have some more adjustments to do. I will try to fine tune it so that there is not a harsh engagement between clutch and brake. As you mention it should be relatively smooth and not jerky. My transition was jerky before, unless I was very easy on letting off of the pedal. Sometimes it makes me wish I had a hydraulic transmission, but then again this is my first lawn tractor ever, and at that, a relatively inexpensive $200, 27 year old lawn tractor.
bertsmobile1
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because of the single pedal for both clutch & brake, getting them to stop & start smooth is never really going to happen
The older mowers from the 60's had both a brake & a clutch so are a lot easier on the back, but you should now at least be able to adjust the spring so your teeth stay in when you brake.
Expect to adjust the thing a dozen or more times before you get the brake : clutch balance to your liking .
If the back pad was very worn that show the rotor was not sliding freely on the shaft.
The older mowers from the 60's had both a brake & a clutch so are a lot easier on the back, but you should now at least be able to adjust the spring so your teeth stay in when you brake.
Expect to adjust the thing a dozen or more times before you get the brake : clutch balance to your liking .
If the back pad was very worn that show the rotor was not sliding freely on the shaft.
I would say that the rear pad was definitely worn more, IF both pads were originally the same depth/thickness. As I said one pad was shorter than the other by design of the "recesses" that they seat in to, being different lengths from gearbox housing and caliper.
However the caliper slid off of the shaft very easily, so I can't think it was ever seized on there or not moving freely enough? I did notice quite a bit of grass gets caked on the caliper/rotor, though, maybe that has something to do with it. Even after just one use as I do at least blow off the mower after every use, or rinse it off if I feel like it. I also use a power washer occasionally as well.
Nothing at all about this brake system was "stuck" to say the least. And the caliper pins are pristine. No rust at all on the shaft, rotor, pins, or caliper. Remarkable really, as I keep repeating I am shocked how clean everything is for being 27 years of age.
The engine doesn't even leak oil. It HAD a leak. Turned out all I needed to do was add some thread sealing compound to the dip-stick threads. No more oil leak! Yes, it was just that simple. Absolutely amazing.
However the caliper slid off of the shaft very easily, so I can't think it was ever seized on there or not moving freely enough? I did notice quite a bit of grass gets caked on the caliper/rotor, though, maybe that has something to do with it. Even after just one use as I do at least blow off the mower after every use, or rinse it off if I feel like it. I also use a power washer occasionally as well.
Nothing at all about this brake system was "stuck" to say the least. And the caliper pins are pristine. No rust at all on the shaft, rotor, pins, or caliper. Remarkable really, as I keep repeating I am shocked how clean everything is for being 27 years of age.
The engine doesn't even leak oil. It HAD a leak. Turned out all I needed to do was add some thread sealing compound to the dip-stick threads. No more oil leak! Yes, it was just that simple. Absolutely amazing.
bertsmobile1
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Leave the hose for watering the tomatoes.
Grass is best blown off.
I use a 5' ( got a bigger one now ) air duster that shifts all of the clippings from under the mower without me eating them.
Grass is best blown off.
I use a 5' ( got a bigger one now ) air duster that shifts all of the clippings from under the mower without me eating them.
I have used the mower twice since installing the brakes and can confirm that they are a definite improvement.
I also have the adjustment spring adjusted pretty far towards the loose side. Sometimes I still get a jolt when letting off the clutch and in to gear. I can't really "relieve" pressure on the pedal for the brake/clutch engagement, as I said, it is backed off almost as far as it can go. Should I back it off all of the way, until I run out of threads? Or am I adjusting it in the wrong direction?
Here are some photos after today's mowing. You can also see the wash out port that I added to the deck. Also found out that the crank pulley's bolt needed to be tightened. The pulley had about 3/4" play up and down, although the bolt wasn't loose, my thought was that it has been this way for quite some time. The only "bad" for me to deal with is that all of the tires leak air a little bit, especially the front tires. The front tires, although only a few years old in comparison to the most likely original rear tires, are leaking badly at the bead. The front tires lose almost 20 psi in less than 24 hours. The rear tires loose air, but not that extreme in just one day. I'm betting they leak through the sidewalls. I haven't sprayed them with soapy water to confirm my suspicions.
PS - You can see my "custom" mud flap side discharge block off as well.
I also have the adjustment spring adjusted pretty far towards the loose side. Sometimes I still get a jolt when letting off the clutch and in to gear. I can't really "relieve" pressure on the pedal for the brake/clutch engagement, as I said, it is backed off almost as far as it can go. Should I back it off all of the way, until I run out of threads? Or am I adjusting it in the wrong direction?
Here are some photos after today's mowing. You can also see the wash out port that I added to the deck. Also found out that the crank pulley's bolt needed to be tightened. The pulley had about 3/4" play up and down, although the bolt wasn't loose, my thought was that it has been this way for quite some time. The only "bad" for me to deal with is that all of the tires leak air a little bit, especially the front tires. The front tires, although only a few years old in comparison to the most likely original rear tires, are leaking badly at the bead. The front tires lose almost 20 psi in less than 24 hours. The rear tires loose air, but not that extreme in just one day. I'm betting they leak through the sidewalls. I haven't sprayed them with soapy water to confirm my suspicions.
PS - You can see my "custom" mud flap side discharge block off as well.
bertsmobile1
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Getting a balance between the brakes working and the clutch working without them fighting against each other is not easy.
You will need to tighten the spring a little & loosen the brake a little till you find your sweetest spot.
I have spent hours trying to get this balance acceptiable to the owners and it can be as fine as a 1/6th turn.
Good news is you are mowing and not hitting the house / fence etc.
With a mower that old you rally have no option other than fitting tubes.
Put up with it till the end of the season as better than average chance the rims will be very rusty inside and require repainting.
None of the "Flat fixing" goos actually work apart from the foam designed for ZTR's front casters and they will make the rears way too hard.
You will need to tighten the spring a little & loosen the brake a little till you find your sweetest spot.
I have spent hours trying to get this balance acceptiable to the owners and it can be as fine as a 1/6th turn.
Good news is you are mowing and not hitting the house / fence etc.
With a mower that old you rally have no option other than fitting tubes.
Put up with it till the end of the season as better than average chance the rims will be very rusty inside and require repainting.
None of the "Flat fixing" goos actually work apart from the foam designed for ZTR's front casters and they will make the rears way too hard.
Thanks for the tips. I will have to play with the brake and tension adjustment for the clutch/brake a bit more in the future.
I tried to break the bead on the front tires, the worst offenders, but I couldn't do it. At minimum I would probably need one of those small equipment manual tire machines from Harbor Freight to help break the bead, and then apply bead sealer.
I'm not sure if the wheels will be rusty or not. I can tell you there are absolutely no rust pits coming through the wheels at any point, on the inside or the outside of the wheels, which is pretty phenomenal for the age. This machine definitely wasn't left outdoors.
I tried to break the bead on the front tires, the worst offenders, but I couldn't do it. At minimum I would probably need one of those small equipment manual tire machines from Harbor Freight to help break the bead, and then apply bead sealer.
I'm not sure if the wheels will be rusty or not. I can tell you there are absolutely no rust pits coming through the wheels at any point, on the inside or the outside of the wheels, which is pretty phenomenal for the age. This machine definitely wasn't left outdoors.
bertsmobile1
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IT depends upon what the wheel was finished with and weather any of those "no flat" goos have been used.
Older mowers had either full baked or even better vitrious enamel on the wheels.
This will last forever as it chemically & physically bonds to the steel.
After that there was vitrious powder coat which again is chemically & physically bonded to the steel.
Finally we have gone to garbage powder coat.
At best it can be considered as shinkwrap it is neither physically nor chemically bonded to the steel.
Thus if it is punchured or scratched anywhere it will wick water between the coating & the steel which will start to rust,
usually this happens from the valve stem hole.
If done properly the powder coat will be a complete coating but in production painting most will have holes .
The HF small tyre changing machines are very good.
They are a knock off of a local invention for go cart wheels made back in the 60's but never really caapitalized ( like most things we design down here )
Just make sure you get the MOWER wheel one as the car or motorcycle ones will not change a mower tyre.
Forget bead sealer, like all of these goops it will seal the tyre, for a while then proceed to rust the wheel.
If a tyre will net seal then either fit a tube or replace the tyre
Older mowers had either full baked or even better vitrious enamel on the wheels.
This will last forever as it chemically & physically bonds to the steel.
After that there was vitrious powder coat which again is chemically & physically bonded to the steel.
Finally we have gone to garbage powder coat.
At best it can be considered as shinkwrap it is neither physically nor chemically bonded to the steel.
Thus if it is punchured or scratched anywhere it will wick water between the coating & the steel which will start to rust,
usually this happens from the valve stem hole.
If done properly the powder coat will be a complete coating but in production painting most will have holes .
The HF small tyre changing machines are very good.
They are a knock off of a local invention for go cart wheels made back in the 60's but never really caapitalized ( like most things we design down here )
Just make sure you get the MOWER wheel one as the car or motorcycle ones will not change a mower tyre.
Forget bead sealer, like all of these goops it will seal the tyre, for a while then proceed to rust the wheel.
If a tyre will net seal then either fit a tube or replace the tyre
I'm not sure that I have ever seen an actual quality powder coating. I constantly hear how awesome it is but whenever I have seen it, it flakes away as how you describe it, an outer coating. Currently I am envisioning a slew of Smitty Bilt and other lower quality brush guards/push bumpers and side steps that have rotted through and through beneath the powder coated finish.
I am also not a fan of the tire sealing slimes due to the mess they create inside the tire but never had a bad opinion of bead sealer. I know the auto shops use them often. I used to have a Jeep years ago with alloy wheels. It had a bead leak on more than a couple wheels. The shop cleaned up the bead but then they also applied bead sealer. I was also not aware that bead sealant will cause rust and corrosion to metal?
By the way, Harbor Freight sells both the small wheel tire changer and then the full size one for automotive uses.
I am also not a fan of the tire sealing slimes due to the mess they create inside the tire but never had a bad opinion of bead sealer. I know the auto shops use them often. I used to have a Jeep years ago with alloy wheels. It had a bead leak on more than a couple wheels. The shop cleaned up the bead but then they also applied bead sealer. I was also not aware that bead sealant will cause rust and corrosion to metal?
By the way, Harbor Freight sells both the small wheel tire changer and then the full size one for automotive uses.