Bolens/MTD lawn tractor with 38 inch deck lots of small problems

[bertsmobile1]

Thank you very much.

as to 1) Any tutorials on adjusting the valves that you happen to like? I have never come close to doing anything like this, but would rather give it a shot as opposed to the shops in my area who have a tendency to make things worse.

Taryl fixes all if you can cope with the psuedo violent humour or Donnyboy87 if dead pan flat presentation is more to your likeing.

as to 2) I had no idea that car batteries weren't so great for lawn tractors. I did a lot of research before I removed and tossed all of the battery supports, converted my battery terminals to pricey quick disconnect car battery terminals ,and made a custom frame to support the car battery.

Other way round the mowers bugger the car battery because there is no regulation and poor rectification , add mechanical issues from vibration & no suspension . Mower, motorcycle & 4WD batteries are made stronger than most car batteries
as to 3) Where are those 4 little bolts? I don't see anything on the red plastic looking engine cover besides a nut facing the headlights.

2 at the front pointing forward & 2 at the back pointing backwards but as you broke the fan, sounds like you got the cover off.
as to 4) Not willfully BTW.....

as to 5) I am running the mentioned MTD Belt. All belts are genuine. I believe that only one spring is used on this mower not 2. There is only one tensioner. I think the double spring setup is for the larger decks. Please see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH-QxvXj32w at around 7:45 seconds. So you are suggesting that I replace both the springs and brake pads? BTW, is there a special tool to make my life easier when pulling the springs? I just don't have the strength and/or leverage most of the time.
With the PTO off the belt goes slack so it can slip, however without the brakes working the pulleys get enough contact to keep the blades turning.
engine off, put the PTO lever in the off position then check you can slip the belt, then try to move the blades , you should feel a lot of resistance.
To work with springs, make a hook in a length of heavy wire or thin rod, wrap the other end around a handle so it forms a T handle.
I use old tube wrenches because I have a lot of them and they have a nice hole in the middle to wrap the wire through.
Cut it to the length you need so you are pulling strait and have something to brace yourself against.
In tight spots you make a double or trebble loop with tie wire to hook the tool through then cut it off when the spring is on.

/QUOTE]

Your parts book is available as a free download from the Briggs & Stratton web site Support section.

 

[BlazNT]

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18ktwHXUnfBhU7y.pdf
Parts manual.

Hard start:
If you have not done so you need to adjust your lifters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-XlET33VHM

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18ktwHXUnfBhU7y.pdf
Parts manual.

Hard start:
If you have not done so you need to adjust your lifters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-XlET33VHM

Thanks for the info guys! Hopefully I can report back with some good final news!

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

Hi everyone.

So the PTO cable was actually bad and I went to replace it. I suspected this since the cable would not start to do anything at all (no tension at all) until it reached about 40% of the on position.

Everything is now fine except for the random clicking when attempting to start the tractor. I'll adjust the valves and lifters etc. I wonder if part of the problem was the fact that the blades were spinning during startup causing more load on the battery.

Anyways, I'll go ahead and adjust lifters/valves when I can.

Thank you!