Mower deck Blade bolt removal on spindles

[fcremc]

My dealer gave me a "blade Buddy". I studied the directions for it & found it useless. The bolt & nut need to be held & or turned. The blade holder in my opinion is useless. I use a breaker bar & a air driven impact.

 

[juank]

if it helps anybody I use a 1/2 impact wrench to remove the nut on top and then a rubber mallet to give the bolt a couple of soft blows to make sure it drops to the floor

regards,
JC

 

[motoman]

Yikes, When you guys with all the experience and multiple examples speak the rest of us should listen. Sounds like the torque tables and lubricant guidelines in this forum somehow don't apply in this case. Wonder why none of the bolts do not work harden and just snap? Seems like the bolts would show some "twisted" grain visible near the head.:confused2:

Edit: For you machinist types. Do you suppose Scag is using too tight a thread "class." That is a thread when engaging feels really snug as it threads into the mating part? Good lubricants would ignore this close fit and work anyway? Just say'n...

 

[reynoldston]

Got to say I never come across one I couldn't get off? I work on customers mowers and think some of them the blades have never been off. I do some times have to use my 36 in breaker bar and some heat.

 

[Steve0853]

I've only had one Scag blade bolt to be unremovable. After that, I started using anti-seize on the bolts and taps and I've never had a problem since. I've never even had to use a breaker bar when using anti-seize.

As far as torqueing the blade bolts, I've never worried about that. The first bit of heavy grass that you mow is going to run the torque way past 100 foot-pounds anyway.

Also Mackie, there's an Agri-Supply store near me that sells those blade bolts much cheaper than the Scag Dealer. They are simply a Grade 8 bolt of the correct length and diameter. I've forgotten the exact length.