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I am buying a new house that sits on a 1.4 acre lot, and need a riding mower.
The lot is overgrown right now, but flat for the most part, except for a raised septic drain field which could take some power to climb.
I do not intend to use this mower for any activities other than cutting grass and am very good with maintenance.

I am looking to spend between $1,000-$1,500 on a new mower, the less the better.
At the same time, I want the best bang for the buck in regards to longevity and usability.
I was looking at the basic $1,000 Craftsman models and other bottom of the line box store models, but they get horrible reviews and seem to be complete garbage, not what I want!

What do you guys think about Hydostatic vs CVT transmissions, is one really better than the other in performance or longevity?

Here are 4 options I found through my research.
I am really stuck between the first two, the Ariens and the Craftsman.
All of these models have full pressure oil systems, deck wheels, and automatic transmissions.
Let me know what you guys think would be the best option!

1. ($1,449) Ariens A22A46 46" 22HP V-Twin Dual Cylinder Briggs & Stratton Automatic Riding Mower #960460056
- I really like the idea of a V-Twin dual cylinder B&S. I tend to delay between mows, so more power is welcome to tame the overgrowth. Is it better than a Kohler Single Cylinder 22HP on the Craftsman below?
- This one has the most reviews at 225 scoring a 4.4 / 5.0. Almost everyone loves it, says it's built great, and has tons of power. I figure this power will be needed in my overgrown property.
- I am not sure if it has a CVT or Hydrostatic tranny as some people have reported the earlier ones were hydrostatic and the newer ones have a CVT. Does it matter? Is one much better than the other?
- I like the wide 46" deck, cruise control, all metal construction, large gas tank, etc.
- I like the hose hookup to flush the deck.
- From what I gather, this mower is made by Husqvarna.

2. ($1,299) Craftsman LT2500 46" 22HP Kohler Single Cylinder Hydro Riding Mower
- I am mostly stuck between this and the Ariens. This is $150 cheaper, has the Craftsman name / support, and seems to have the same features but different engine.
- Is the V-Twin B&S in the Ariens better than the single cylinder Kohler? Is one more reliable than the other? At 22HP, they should both have the same power right?
- This definitely has a hydostatic transmission per the specs.
- Only has 36 reviews scoring a 4.0/5.0. Some great reviews, some bad reviews about engine failure and a finicky hydostatic tranny.
- I am pretty sure this mower is made by Husqvarna as well.

3. ($1,399) Cub Cadet LTX10410 42" 19HP Kohler Single Cylinder Courage Automatic Riding Mower
- CVT Transmission
- 3 year warranty, the others have 2 years.
- Cub Cadet is made by MTC. MTD makes mostly junk from what I gather, but their Cub Cadets are actually pretty good quality?
- Is the quality going to be much better than the Ariens or Craftsman made by Husqvarna?
- Has a smaller 19HP Kohler motor, smaller 42" Deck, and higher price than Craftsman? Is the quality offset worth these downgrades?

4. ($1,499) John Deere D105 42" 17.5HP Automatic Riding Mower
- This is the most expensive, and has the smallest engine at 17.5HP.
- Is the quality of the Deere that much higher than the others that it warrants the highest price tag even though it has the weakest motor and smallest deck?
- It has 65 reviews that score it 4.2/5.0. A few complain about the lack of power, which I don't like.
- There are also several complaints about quality and malfunctions. Doesn't seem to me that the quality is any better than the others, what do you guys think?

Personally out of the four you have listed IMO the Cub Cadet LTX is the best mower. It has a 3-year/120-hr and 5-year/500-hr limited warranty which ever comes first. I ran the LT 1045 for 2 years had like 400 hours on it and never had any problems, it was a great mower. Carscw I believe is running the LTX 1040 if you want info on it he would be the one to ask. Personally if I had a 1.4 acre lot I'd spend a little more money and buy a ZTR and cut my mowing time down but that's just me.

Craftsman hands down.

If you can afford it then I recommend buying a Craftsman GT3000 mower.

davbell22602 said:

If you can afford it then I recommend buying a Craftsman GT3000 mower.

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I second that motion or a Murray wide body

I can't seem to find a GT3000 for sale. Any other suggestions for $1500 or less , readily available mowers? I've read so many reviews my eyes are blurry.

I was looking at Sears.com
It's the turn tight hydro from craftsman made by hop and it's on sale for Black Friday at $1299.
It seems like the best bang for the buck features wise but it has a ton of horrible reviews regarding reliability that have made me run. A pageantry it rattles like crazy, is a bit underpowered, breaks welds often and the motor doesn't hold up all that we'll. The Ariens doesn't seem to have any bad reviews like that.

Quick question, the only reason I am shying away from the awesomely reviewed Arien made by hop is because they switched it to CVT instead of Hydro tranny. Does it really matter? Is CVT still good? With hydro tractors easily available for the same price , I feel I'm overpaying for one that isn't Hydro. But with almost all great reviews about quality , power, etc, maybe CVT is just as good?

wmblalock said:

I can't seem to find a GT3000 for sale. Any other suggestions for $1500 or less , readily available mowers? I've read so many reviews my eyes are blurry.

I was looking at Sears.com
It's the turn tight hydro from craftsman made by hop and it's on sale for Black Friday at $1299.
It seems like the best bang for the buck features wise but it has a ton of horrible reviews regarding reliability that have made me run. A pageantry it rattles like crazy, is a bit underpowered, breaks welds often and the motor doesn't hold up all that we'll. The Ariens doesn't seem to have any bad reviews like that.

Quick question, the only reason I am shying away from the awesomely reviewed Arien made by hop is because they switched it to CVT instead of Hydro tranny. Does it really matter? Is CVT still good? With hydro tractors easily available for the same price , I feel I'm overpaying for one that isn't Hydro. But with almost all great reviews about quality , power, etc, maybe CVT is just as good?

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If I were you and you're going to buy a mower like one of the above mowers I would seriously consider buying from your nearest dealer and I'd stay away from the big box stores entirely. A dealer is going to service what he sells first, Big Box store stuff will get pushed to the lot and done last.

I have a LTX 1040 It is a tough mower gives a very good cut and has plenty of power does real good on hills.

In my opinion it is the best mower in its price range.

I buy a new riding mower every year usually a craftsman went with the cub this year because I got a very good deal.

I bought it this past April and have over 900 very hard hours on it. Still have factory drive belts on it and still pulls like new.

Had to replace deck bearings and deck belt.

Very user friendly nice comfortable seat set at the right height.

I will keep this mower and run it this coming year.

I have more than 20 running mowers and the cub is still my choice.

Buy from a dealer and have them match the box store price.

NO box store stuff u wont get good service ..If any at all ....As the others said buy from a dealer ....Ariens has a good Selection also

briggs said:

NO box store stuff u wont get good service ..If any at all ....As the others said buy from a dealer ....Ariens has a good Selection also

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Have never used a ariens but have heard good things about them.

Around here in my area the warranty work is done when the shop has time regardless if it was dealer or store bought mower. They tell customers to give them a week or two to work it in.

If it influences your choice, I believe and others can comment but I believe Gravely now owns and makes the Ariens mowers so if your leaning towards the Ariens you may consider taking a step up to and checking on the Gravelys, there better machines.

My dad had Ariens rear engine rider back in 2000 for couple years but it was money pit. So he sold it and bought a Cub cadet from Lowes years ago. But the Lowes in my area doesnt sell Cub Cadet now. Home Depot has Cub Cadet. Lowes has the Troy Built and John Deere.

Ric said:

If it influences your choice, I believe and others can comment but I believe Gravely now owns and makes the Ariens mowers so if your leaning towards the Ariens you may consider taking a step up to and checking on the Gravelys, there better machines.

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Ariens owns Gravely. Ariens also owns Stens too. Back in the mid 90's Ariens bought Gravely and refused to let operate in North Carolina instead of moving to everything to Wisconsin.

davbell22602 said:

Around here in my area the warranty work is done when the shop has time regardless if it was dealer or store bought mower. They tell customers to give them a week or two to work it in.

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I use only one shop and buy all my parts from them I even stop by to hang out and drink free coffee. They are good guys and put the pros first in line.
They understand we need our mowers to work and will jump right on any work we need done. They cost more than some others but well worth it for the service you get.

Most repairs I do my self but sometimes just don't have the time

davbell22602 said:

Ariens owns Gravely. Ariens also owns Stens too. Back in the mid 90's Ariens bought Gravely and refused to let operate in North Carolina instead of moving to everything to Wisconsin.

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Oops,I knew it was one way or the other, just couldn't make up my mind which way :smile: anymore it's hard to know who owns who.

Ric said:

Oops,I knew it was one way or the other, just couldn't make up my mind which way :smile: anymore it's hard to know who owns who.

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Yea. Its seems its either MTD or Husqvarna doing all the buying.

I second the Cub. Yes they are built by MTD, but they are the "flagship" brand. The dealer experience is critical. If you can't get service after the sale, then even a great sales price isn't so good when you have a nonfunctioning mower and the grass is growing 1/2" a day. As you can tell from my signature, I'm a JD fan. That's partly due to their extensive dealer network, of which my local dealer has a large operation only 15 minutes from me, and several other equally large locations within two hours drive. I have found they always have the part I need in stock in one of their locations, and can get me that part always by the next morning, sometimes the same day. And....if it's so important I have that part before nightfall, the other locations are close enough for me to go get it. Some will probably not believe me as it is a JD, but most parts at this dealer are priced comparably to aftermarket parts. I also have a very good Cub dealer in the area and have purchased a rider from them, but they are located 30 minutes away and can't offer the services the JD location can, simply because it is a one man operation.

Speaking of that rider I purchased from the Cub dealer....it was a White. This was in 1997, it was built by MTD and was a dealer only product at the time, not that big-box store crap White sells now. At that time, the White was literally one step below the Cub. Not having a trained eye, I couldn't tell much difference between the White and the Cub, other than engines, seats and other niceties that made the Cub more comfortable to operate. The White I purchased had the CVT transaxle you are asking about. I never had any trouble with it, and from a simplicity standpoint, I prefer the CVT. There are few moving parts, other than the drive belt and two variable ratio pulleys like what's on a golf cart. The one disadvantage of the CVT, forward to reverse transitions are not as smooth as with a hydro. You actually have to stop to shift to reverse. However, the one big advantage in my opinion is the durability of the CVT. I just really don't see a whole lot to go wrong in one. I kept that White for 10 years and never had one real issue with it. The only issue was a deck height indicator kept breaking, so after replacing it twice, I just never changed the deck height again. That mower still looked and operated like a new one when I sold it with roughly 600 hours on it.

I hope some of this info helps. :thumbsup:

I don't mind stopping to change from forward to reverse.
One thing I like about the mtd drive setup is you can go just as fast in reverse as you can and forward.
And with the transaxle only having two gears forward and reverse they last forever.

I've got the Airens you listed in #1 - it's got the CVT (General Trans Element 5) and I think it's a good machine. Has plenty of power, cuts well, and pulls well on our hilly front yard. 2 year warranty (no hours as it has no hour meter) and basically a Husqvarna (they build them for Ariens).

I like the CVT as one of the complaints on the low end hydro units is they are not serviceable and fail early. With the CVT I shouldn't have to worry about it much. I know you can change the oil in the hydros but it's not supported by the manufacturers of either the hydro or the mower, so you're on your own.

Now I've only had it since the end of Sept and I've put about 10 hours on it so far and it seems good. Perfect? Nope but for the job it's above average. Definitely recommended from me.

itguy08 said:

I've got the Airens you listed in #1 - it's got the CVT (General Trans Element 5) and I think it's a good machine. Has plenty of power, cuts well, and pulls well on our hilly front yard. 2 year warranty (no hours as it has no hour meter) and basically a Husqvarna (they build them for Ariens).

I like the CVT as one of the complaints on the low end hydro units is they are not serviceable and fail early. With the CVT I shouldn't have to worry about it much. I know you can change the oil in the hydros but it's not supported by the manufacturers of either the hydro or the mower, so you're on your own.

Now I've only had it since the end of Sept and I've put about 10 hours on it so far and it seems good. Perfect? Nope but for the job it's above average. Definitely recommended from me.

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How do you feel about the foot control? I assume it's like a car where you have to hold it the entire time you mow? Is the gas pedal hard to press? I ask because the gas pedal on the one I sat on at Home Depot seemed nearly as hard to press as the clutch. That's my only issue with this Ariens at this point, I don't want to wear out my leg holding a firm pedal for hours while mowing. I wish it had fender controls.

I've actually been considering some cheaper manual transmission models because I don't have to hold a pedal and it seems like less to break than the automatics. There is a 42" 17.5hp Ariens with manual tranny for about $1000 that has 650+ Mostly great reviews.
Ariens 42 in 17.5 HP 6-speed Riding Lawn Mower-960160027 at The Home Depot
It seems simple might = longer lasting. Only thing I don't like about the cheaper simple one is that it's not a pressurized oil system and has no filter. Though I must say there really isn't any complaints about the motor, so I guess it works fine that way. What do you guys think? I also wish it was 46"

Sears has the 46" hydro Craftsman LT2500 on sale for $1299
Reviews - 22HP Kohler 46” Fender Hydro LT2500 Non CA - Sears
It seems to be built by MTD, not my first choice, but from what I gather, the exact model is more important than the manufacturer because they all have good and bad models.
Re-read all 36 reviews and it actually seems pretty good. Any negative ones seemed mostly about stupid things or user ignorance, but no real reliability concerns.
My only issue is the hydro tranny, I wish it were manual for reliability sake?
Anyone know the estimated or average lifespan of these inexpensive hydro trannys?
I just fear I'll take such great care of this thing to make it last 10+ years just to have the expensive tranny fail and make it too pricey to fix.
Can I expect 10 years out of an inexpensive hydro tranny mowing 1.4 acres every other week in the fl summer?

Craftsman also has the upgraded Tight Turn 46" mower on sale for the same price. It's made by Husqvarna, but despite the builder and higher price, 1/3 of the reviews are negative , and negative in important ways such as build quality, deck flaws, and engine issues.

When it comes to reviews you need to take them with a grain of salt.

There is always a guy that does not like the engine because it only lasted a year. What he does not say is he never checked the oil or air filter.

Or the steering is messed up and junk. But he hit a tree or a hole while turning.

A review only has any merit if more than one person has the same problem with it.

Anyways don't just read the first 5

Carscw said:

When it comes to reviews you need to take them with a grain of salt.

There is always a guy that does not like the engine because it only lasted a year. What he does not say is he never checked the oil or air filter.

Or the steering is messed up and junk. But he hit a tree or a hole while turning.

A review only has any merit if more than one person has the same problem with it.

Anyways don't just read the first 5

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Yeah, I always read all reviews and logically. I ignore negative reviews stemming from user ignorance, ones about topics that I don't care about, and the lemon here and there. I try to focus on legitimate reliability issues such as cracked welds, maintained motors that blow, lack of power to cut in tough situations, bad transmissions, common vibration complaints (like the tight turn 46 craftsman gets, repeatedly reported as a design flaw), etc.

davbell22602 said:

Around here in my area the warranty work is done when the shop has time regardless if it was dealer or store bought mower. They tell customers to give them a week or two to work it in.

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Lucky..... Here they wait longer or get pi**ed off and take it someone else ....

I would go with Ariens they work great I bought a zero turn no complaints I used it 3 times then sold it to a client he loves it ......They make good EQ/Gravely same thing:thumbsup:

I just read the reviews on the craftsman. To many with the welds on the deck.

Have you thought about buying a used mower. Most times you can get more mower for your money.
If you like I can give a list of things to look at on used mowers and I am sure others can add to it.

Carscw said:

I just read the reviews on the craftsman. To many with the welds on the deck.

Have you thought about buying a used mower. Most times you can get more mower for your money.
If you like I can give a list of things to look at on used mowers and I am sure others can add to it.

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I have thought about a used mower, but haven't been able to find anything close to promising and would rather not acquire someone else's headaches.
Sure, If I found a known reliable workhorse in great shape, for the right price, I would take a look though.

Yes, the 46" Craftsman Tight Turn mower they have on sale right now is out of the question at this point as it has 1/3 negative reviews about build quality, common complaints being those broken deck welds and major deck vibration due to a design flaw.
Weird though, being that this mower is supposed to be an upgrade from the ones below, yet it seems to be built like junk... even more weird considering it's built by Husqvarna.
( http://www.sears.com/craftsman-46-i...p-07128852000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 )

I have (for the night anyway) narrowed my search down to these two models:

1. Craftsman LT2500 - 46", Hydrostatic, Kohler Courage 22HP ($1299)
Biggest Concern: Hydrostatic tranny. Will a regular hydostatic tranny last 10 years mowing 1.4 acres in FL every other week during the summer? Based on the good reviews and lack of build quality complains, I feel I could take care of the rest of the tractor enough to make it last for a long time to come. I would just hate to have to trash the mower early because an expensive Hydro tranny fails and it costs more than it's worth to replace it. Also this mower is built my MTD.
Advantages: $150 cheaper, Comfortable fender throttle control

2. Ariens A22A46 - 46", CVT Auto, 22HP V-Twin Dual Cylinder B&S ($1449)
Biggest Concern: Foot throttle controls. I have not driven either of these mowers, but I feel in my large, flat yard that having to hold the gas pedal down for hours would make the leg sore. Sure, there is a cruise control feature, but I read that it's hard to engage and use. I sat on this model at the store and the throttle pedal seemed very hard to push like the clutch. Is that right, or was that one messed up? I feel just being able to reach over with a fender control would be much easier and less fatiguing. What do you guys prefer or think about foot controls vs fender controls?
Advantages: Smoother and more powerful V-Twin B&S motor, Quality built Husqvarna mower, CVT Transmission which should in theory be more reliable than hydrostatic right?

The main thing I am interested in is reliability. I don't want to waste $1500 on a mower that I have to trash in a few years.

Do you guys think CVT has more longevity than Hydrostatic? I read the hydrostatic transmissions are not serviceable, and thus they tend to prematurely wear out. I gather the CVT transmissions don't have anything that needs to be serviced except a new belt from time to time, thus making it probable that it would last longer. What do you guys think about this idea? Am I correct? Wrong?

Or should I seek a more inexpensive base model mower that has a manual transmission and good build quality reviews if I am looking for longevity?
My father and uncle both have manual transmissions and no issues for nearly 10 years each so far. My uncle who repairs small engines didn't seem to think the automatic trannys were as reliable as the manual ones.
There is this Ariens 42" 17.5HP 6-Speed Manual that is well built by Husqvarna for $1049, but it doesn't use an oil filter or full pressure oil system like the others, has a smaller deck and less power.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ariens-4...g-Lawn-Mower-960160027/203013179#.Upgn-cTFXXA

No matter what you buy your gonna have to put money into it regardless if its new or used to keep it running good. Changing oil/oil filter 1-2 times a year, spark plugs once a year, air filter, belts, etc.

davbell22602 said:

No matter what you buy your gonna have to put money into it regardless if its new or used to keep it running good. Changing oil/oil filter 1-2 times a year, spark plugs once a year, air filter, belts, etc.

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Of coarse. I am a maintenance freak, I take care of things extremely well. I don't have a problem putting money into regular maintenance. I just don't want to have to buy a transmission that costs as much as the tractor is worth in 2-5 years, especially since I take care of these things so well that the rest should last for a very long time.

wmblalock said:

Of coarse. I am a maintenance freak, I take care of things extremely well. I don't have a problem putting money into regular maintenance. I just don't want to have to buy a transmission that costs as much as the tractor is worth in 2-5 years, especially since I take care of these things so well that the rest should last for a very long time.

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Those Hydrogear tranys are expensive to replace. I seen them retail as much as $2500-3000 new. The stop n go transaxles I seen retail anywhere from $600-800 new.

I've read the reviews that were posted and like Carscw said you can take them with a grain of salt. The two things I did notice however reading them was what was missing and that was what size property and type of grass being cut. One review an individual did state, (All I can say is this mower is not built for anything other than your cookie cutter elegant lawn.)talking about the LT2500.

You say the main thing I am interested in is reliability and longevity and you don't want to waste $1500 on a mower that I have to trash in a few years. Then will a regular hydostatic tranny last 10 years mowing 1.4 acres in FL every other week during the summer. Your answer Imo would be no, not for the amount of property your going to be cutting and the way you're going to be using it.

Keep in mind you're asking these questions about a mower that the manufacturer themselves only give a general two year warranty, after that your on your own to maintain the mower and it will become a money pit.

Ric said:

I've read the reviews that were posted and like Carscw said you can take them with a grain of salt. The two things I did notice however reading them was what was missing and that was what size property and type of grass being cut. One review an individual did state, (All I can say is this mower is not built for anything other than your cookie cutter elegant lawn.)talking about the LT2500.

You say the main thing I am interested in is reliability and longevity and you don't want to waste $1500 on a mower that I have to trash in a few years. Then will a regular hydostatic tranny last 10 years mowing 1.4 acres in FL every other week during the summer. Your answer Imo would be no, not for the amount of property your going to be cutting and the way you're going to be using it.

Keep in mind you're asking these questions about a mower that the manufacturer themselves only give a general two year warranty, after that your on your own to maintain the mower and it will become a money pit.

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On the other side of it, there was a review or two of people cutting 5-10 acres with the LT2500.
I think that is just plain stupid as the manufacturer recommends this for a 1-2 acres.
Do you have any recommendations for something in this price range that would hold up?
I see some smaller 42" Deers and stuff with smaller engines, but figure they would probably last even less because I would have to run them longer and harder with the smaller deck and motor.

I love my craftsman yts 4000, hydro Trans an all never a problem an as long as you do all the preventative i see no reason any piece of equipment going south quickly! I've had mines 6 yrs now love it!

Reading through the list of comments made here has made me just roll on the floor laughing my *** off! I literally just finished servicing my supposedly non-several-able transmission in my YTS 4000! Simple to do with regular handtools takes about two hours! The only downside is you have to remove the wheels drop the transaxle from the mower, but easily done if you like help I can always help!

wmblalock said:

On the other side of it, there was a review or two of people cutting 5-10 acres with the LT2500.
I think that is just plain stupid as the manufacturer recommends this for a 1-2 acres.
Do you have any recommendations for something in this price range that would hold up?
I see some smaller 42" Deers and stuff with smaller engines, but figure they would probably last even less because I would have to run them longer and harder with the smaller deck and motor.

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The problem is that anything in that price range isn't meant for anything other than your cookie cutter elegant lawn like the guy that did the review said and when you start pushing the thing to an acre and a half your pushing it beyond its limits so its life span is going to be decrease to next to nothing. If you want the most bang for your dollar I'd recommend start looking on Craigslist for something like this for $1650 for what your doing this would be or is a forever mower. It will handle what you have and five times more without breaking a sweat.

dixie chopper mower 60 inch deck - $1650 (bartow)

My_guy99 said:

Reading through the list of comments made here has made me just roll on the floor laughing my *** off! I literally just finished servicing my supposedly non-several-able transmission in my YTS 4000! Simple to do with regular handtools takes about two hours! The only downside is you have to remove the wheels drop the transaxle from the mower, but easily done if you like help I can always help!

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Yeah, I was just reading up on it, seems the Hydro trannies are pretty reliable if I change the fluid from time to time, keep it clean, and don't overload it.
I don't plan on towing with it, and just have one steep hill, so it shouldn't be abused much.
After I account for the house and some trees on the lot, my actual mow area is probably closer to 1-1.2 acre and they are rated for 1-2 acres per Craftsman.
Anyone have an opinion of getting a regular pulley type Automatic CVT Transmission like in the Arien instead?
They seem more simple, so maybe more durable?

Thanks Ric, I will keep an eye out for something more commercial and used, but I haven't found much in my area yet (Saint Augustine / Jacksonville FL).
Do you have any opinion on the Automatic CVT Transmissions vs Hydrostatic (in regards to these lawn tractors?)

wmblalock said:

Yeah, I was just reading up on it, seems the Hydro trannies are pretty reliable if I change the fluid from time to time, keep it clean, and don't overload it.
I don't plan on towing with it, and just have one steep hill, so it shouldn't be abused much.
After I account for the house and some trees on the lot, my actual mow area is probably closer to 1-1.2 acre and they are rated for 1-2 acres per Craftsman.
Anyone have an opinion of getting a regular pulley type Automatic CVT Transmission like in the Arien instead?
They seem more simple, so maybe more durable?

Thanks Ric, I will keep an eye out for something more commercial and used, but I haven't found much in my area yet (Saint Augustine / Jacksonville FL).
Do you have any opinion on the Automatic CVT Transmissions vs Hydrostatic (in regards to these lawn tractors?)

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Hydro-Gear makes good drives, they put them in about every mower out there. I've run the 2800s commercially in my two ZTRs and have all kinda of hours on them and have never had any problems. The only way you can improve your drives is to go with pumps and wheel motors, there's such a difference between the two.
I still think you would be better off with a used commercial of some type. Right now most guys that are wanting to upgrade for next year will be looking to selling equipment now to get ready for next season so you should be able to come up with a good deal on a good ztr.

wmblalock said:

Yeah, I was just reading up on it, seems the Hydro trannies are pretty reliable if I change the fluid from time to time, keep it clean, and don't overload it. I don't plan on towing with it, and just have one steep hill, so it shouldn't be abused much. After I account for the house and some trees on the lot, my actual mow area is probably closer to 1-1.2 acre and they are rated for 1-2 acres per Craftsman. Anyone have an opinion of getting a regular pulley type Automatic CVT Transmission like in the Arien instead? They seem more simple, so maybe more durable? Thanks Ric, I will keep an eye out for something more commercial and used, but I haven't found much in my area yet (Saint Augustine / Jacksonville FL). Do you have any opinion on the Automatic CVT Transmissions vs Hydrostatic (in regards to these lawn tractors?)

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I will only answer to what I know an not go off of hear-say or someone who has not the slightest clue where the drain plug to the mower is....

A friend of mines has a different mower same Trans much bigger yard I believe 2 acres compared to my 3/4, he drivers his mower like he stole it every week! We both service tractors the same and have the same results!

I personally believe if you take care of your stuff your stuff will take care of you! Multiple oil changes, Air filter cleaner changes all the small things, grease fittings can go a long way!

For those of you with more experience with these things than me, between fender control and pedal control, which do you prefer?

wmblalock said:

For those of you with more experience with these things than me, between fender control and pedal control, which do you prefer?

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I have both fender and pedal control mowers. I like the fender better you don't have to hold it when doing big yards and easy to control your speed when going around trees

Fender as mowing mainly requires a single speed so it acts as a cruise control.

wmblalock said:

For those of you with more experience with these things than me, between fender control and pedal control, which do you prefer?

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Lol, I guess I kinda have both! Foot controls but then I also have the cruise control feature! Thought cruise was standard..

My_guy99 said:

I personally believe if you take care of your stuff your stuff will take care of you! Multiple oil changes, Air filter cleaner changes all the small things, grease fittings can go a long way!

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I also am a believer in preventative maintenance but only to a point. As a mechanic once told me, a good rule of thumb would be IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT. Some things in some cases are better off left alone than messed with.

Ric said:

I also am a believer in preventative maintenance but only to a point. As a mechanic once told me, a good rule of thumb would be IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT. Some things in some cases are better off left alone than messed with.

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My father told me the same thing but when see others that have the same mowers and have a FAILURE like Trans issues ya probably want to step in and fix that before becomes an issue.

I posted a question about a year ago on this form about anyone having issues but with this Trans no one said a word. On further inspection of through other websites and whatnot I found a lot of issues just with the transmission everyone says the motor last forever but the transmissions are the ones tend to fail!

I then came back to the site and posted the next question of does anyone know how to train change the oil in the hydrostatic transmissions and I received no replies for some reason, probably because no one really knows or is even attempted or probably might have went all the way to that point of don't fix it until it's broke! Then comes the phrase if it ain't broke don't fix it.... At this point looks like it broke that's going to be expensive to fix it

Oh and another thing the whole if it ain't broke don't fix it! I truly believe in it but when checked online another guy who did the repair actually is was broke and he had to fix it he spent $280 trying to fix it! And all he did was just replaced the gears and bought a couple quarts oil I spent with $20 on some quartz 3 quarts oil I think I can do that!

wmblalock said:

How do you feel about the foot control? I assume it's like a car where you have to hold it the entire time you mow? Is the gas pedal hard to press? I ask because the gas pedal on the one I sat on at Home Depot seemed nearly as hard to press as the clutch. That's my only issue with this Ariens at this point, I don't want to wear out my leg holding a firm pedal for hours while mowing. I wish it had fender controls.

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My White had the fender speed control and only one foot pedal, the forward/neutral/reverse lever was between the seat and steering wheel. To start or stop you pushed the foot pedal, selected either forward or reverse, and then selected your speed with the fender control. Then you slowly released the foot pedal like a clutch. If you wanted to speed up, all you did was to slightly depress the foot pedal and select the new speed. Now, if you were mowing along in, let's say, "5th" gear and you came up to a tree where you needed to slow down to go around the tree, all you had to do was to slightly depress the foot pedal to slow the mower down. Once you were clear of the object, release the pedal completely to return to your predetermined speed. The way that pedal worked was the farther down you pushed it, the slower the mower would go to the point where it would stop. The farther the pedal came up, the faster the mower would go. All the fender control did was to limit how far up the pedal would come. Using the fender control as the predetermined maximum speed, then you never had to touch the pedal except to slow down or stop/reverse direction. I really liked it.

Most all MTDs work this way the shift lever is connected to the brake/clutch pedal. The new ones now work with a pedal on the right side. But the drive set up is still the shift on the go they been using for years. The transaxle / rear end only has forward and reverse your speed is controlled by a variable speed pulley.

My_guy99 said:

My father told me the same thing but when see others that have the same mowers and have a FAILURE like Trans issues ya probably want to step in and fix that before becomes an issue.

I posted a question about a year ago on this form about anyone having issues but with this Trans no one said a word. On further inspection of through other websites and whatnot I found a lot of issues just with the transmission everyone says the motor last forever but the transmissions are the ones tend to fail!

I then came back to the site and posted the next question of does anyone know how to train change the oil in the hydrostatic transmissions and I received no replies for some reason, probably because no one really knows or is even attempted or probably might have went all the way to that point of don't fix it until it's broke! Then comes the phrase if it ain't broke don't fix it.... At this point looks like it broke that's going to be expensive to fix it

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The thing is your servicing a sealed unit, a unit that is a sealed unit for a reason. The unit your doing preventative maintenance on should out live the mower itself without service or it wouldn't have been a sealed unit in the first place. Your talking about a homeowner unit that probably wont accumulate 30 to 35 hours a year and if your mower has a decent warranty say 3 year 180 hr which ever comes first type of thing it should out live the warranty and if it doesn't it's there problem to fix or replace, if it does out live the warranty chances are good you'll probably never have an issue with the unit for the life of the mower.

Ric said:

The thing is your servicing a sealed unit, a unit that is a sealed unit for a reason. The unit your doing preventative maintenance on should out live the mower itself without service or it wouldn't have been a sealed unit in the first place. Your talking about a homeowner unit that probably wont accumulate 30 to 35 hours a year and if your mower has a decent warranty say 3 year 180 hr which ever comes first type of thing it should out live the warranty and if it doesn't it's there problem to fix or replace, if it does out live the warranty chances are good you'll probably never have an issue with the unit for the life of the mower.

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See this is what I mean about someone talking about something they might not know the whole story about look up the reasons on why hydrostatic transmissions fail and maybe you understand what I'm talking about. When they fail your going to have to spend all this money to have it sent to a service shop and service by them how much money do you want to pay for that!

It says it's a sealed unit to me that means sealed to DEATH! anything with moving parts must be serviced, I don't know what you may be thinking but me sealed units is not a good enough excuse for me!

I called the manufacturer and they told me that they don't feel them prior to leaving the facility they are told by Sears not to feel them that they will fill them themselves! Also I was told that supposedly they use the incorrect weight oil which is definitely not good in my opinion that's hence the reason why they probably fail so early!

Also the manufacturer recommended that I buy another case for the bottom if I wanted to service it again making it easier for me to drain the fill again, two drain plugs one for the pump one for the transfer case!

My want to do your research before you start speaking on something that you might not know about!!!!

This is what they recommend, sounds like B S to me! cut and paste:

FOR CONSUMER USE IN LAWN TRACTOR AND RIDING MOWER APPLICATIONS OIL CHANGING IS NOT EMPHASIZED AS MOST HOMEOWNERS AREN’T EQUIPPED OR IN THE HABIT OF CHANGING TRANSMISSION OIL. FOR MOST CUSTOMERS, THE TRANSAXLE WILL OUTLAST THE LIFE OF THE MACHINE. BUT, IT MUST BE SAID THAT CHANGING OIL WILL EXTEND THE LIFE OF THE TRANSMISSION. HOWEVER, IN COMMERCIAL AND HEAVY USAGE APPLICATIONS OIL CHANGING IS RECOMMENDED AFTER THE 1ST 50 HOURS OF OPERATION AND EVERY 200 HOURS, THEREAFTER. THE FILTER SHOULD NEVER REQUIRE CHANGING UNLESS THE TRANSAXLE IS REMOVED FROM THE TRACTOR OR RIDING MOWER AND OPENED FOR REPAIRS

The sealed units will last for many years. I see no need to break them open and mess with them. Like has already been said they will out last the rest of the mower.

The big thing is when you buy a $1.300 mower you know it is not for life.

On a low end mower you need to worry more about the deck and steering not the transaxle.


Of it makes you feel better to take them apart then do it. Do I think it helps. No

My_guy99 said:

See this is what I mean about someone talking about something they might not know the whole story about look up the reasons on why hydrostatic transmissions fail and maybe you understand what I'm talking about. When they fail your going to have to spend all this money to have it sent to a service shop and service by them how much money do you want to pay for that!

It says it's a sealed unit to me that means sealed to DEATH! anything with moving parts must be serviced, I don't know what you may be thinking but me sealed units is not a good enough excuse for me!

I called the manufacturer and they told me that they don't feel them prior to leaving the facility they are told by Sears not to feel them that they will fill them themselves! Also I was told that supposedly they use the incorrect weight oil which is definitely not good in my opinion that's hence the reason why they probably fail so early!

Also the manufacturer recommended that I buy another case for the bottom if I wanted to service it again making it easier for me to drain the fill again, two drain plugs one for the pump one for the transfer case!

My want to do your research before you start speaking on something that you might not know about!!!!

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I really don't think you understand, when a sealed unit comes from the factory it's supposed to stay that way for the life of the mower and it's not to be messed with, just because in your own words a sealed units is not a good enough excuse for me doesn't mean you are right in for breaking into a sealed unit. If the unit was serviceable it would have drain plugs and it doesn't. I mean really even the manufacturer recommended that I buy another case for the bottom if I wanted to service it again making it easier for me to drain the fill again. It seems like I said the same thing in my earlier post that the manufacturer said THE TRANSAXLE WILL OUTLAST THE LIFE OF THE MACHINE. The thing is if you have a commercial unit that's being used 6 days a week 3 to 500 hrs or more a season and it is and it's set up to be changed fine I may agree with you but I'm sorry there's no need to service a sealed unit.

I guess I could go either way with changing the fluid in a seal hydro tranny.
Under normal circumstances, for the manufacturers expected life span, they should need no service.
On the other hand, it's in their best interest to limit that "life span" so you buy another tractor.
I don't believe any lubricant lasts forever, and I do believe that changing the fluid could help extend the life span.
Even if you only did it once, say at the 5 year mark (half the expected life span).

As far as the deck rusting, and motor wearing out, that doesn't scare me as much, because I know the deck is the biggest weakness of these mowers typically, and thus I would probably coat the deck inside and out with epoxy or some other coating to protect from rust after the 2 year warranty ran out. That is why, if I take measures to extend the rest of the mowers life, I want to make sure I choose the longest lasting tranny in this price range to keep this thing running as long as it can.
That's why I am debating between the Craftsman / MTD with Hydro tranny and the Ariens / Husqvarna with CVT tranny and want to choose the best one of the two.

I fully understand a $1500 mower is not a lifetime investment, but if I could take care of it enough to make it last 10 years, I would feel that I got my money out of it.

Ric said:

I really don't think you understand, when a sealed unit comes from the factory it's supposed to stay that way for the life of the mower and it's not to be messed with, just because in your own words a sealed units is not a good enough excuse for me doesn't mean you are right in for breaking into a sealed unit. If the unit was serviceable it would have drain plugs and it doesn't. I mean really even the manufacturer recommended that I buy another case for the bottom if I wanted to service it again making it easier for me to drain the fill again. It seems like I said the same thing in my earlier post that the manufacturer said THE TRANSAXLE WILL OUTLAST THE LIFE OF THE MACHINE. The thing is if you have a commercial unit that's being used 6 days a week 3 to 500 hrs or more a season and it is and it's set up to be changed fine I may agree with you but I'm sorry there's no need to service a sealed unit.

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RIC believe what you want but I believe a picture would explain a thousand words!

This guy has the same Trans an around the same hours on his mower as mines! His doesn't move anymore mines still looks perfect...

O yeah those are shavings in a non serviceable Trans you speak of!

And if I wanted to make it easy on myself he said I could buy this bottom case or just tap the holes myself, here's the email explain that as well!

I know my stuff, you don't even have this tractor why r you even concerned!!!!!

Below is my Trans perfect!

wmblalock said:

I guess I could go either way with changing the fluid in a seal hydro tranny. Under normal circumstances, for the manufacturers expected life span, they should need no service. On the other hand, it's in their best interest to limit that "life span" so you buy another tractor. I don't believe any lubricant lasts forever, and I do believe that changing the fluid could help extend the life span. Even if you only did it once, say at the 5 year mark (half the expected life span). As far as the deck rusting, and motor wearing out, that doesn't scare me as much, because I know the deck is the biggest weakness of these mowers typically, and thus I would probably coat the deck inside and out with epoxy or some other coating to protect from rust after the 2 year warranty ran out. That is why, if I take measures to extend the rest of the mowers life, I want to make sure I choose the longest lasting tranny in this price range to keep this thing running as long as it can. That's why I am debating between the Craftsman / MTD with Hydro tranny and the Ariens / Husqvarna with CVT tranny and want to choose the best one of the two. I fully understand a $1500 mower is not a lifetime investment, but if I could take care of it enough to make it last 10 years, I would feel that I got my money out of it.

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I wish I could tell you which one will last longer but truth is I have broke both.

I have a 1981 ace mower ( mtd ) that still pulls good.

A 2005 husqvarna with a hydro that pulls still like new.
On all my mowers especially the hydro I let the clutch/ brake out and let it run in neutral for a min to warm things up.

What I do know is a hydro has a max rpm that it is made to run at. And is not the best for pulling a trailer or plowing snow.
If your not doing a lot of backing up I would go with a cvt.

I still think the cub cadet is the best mower in the $1500 price range.

The mtd variable Drive set up is one of the best. You have a non hydro that works like a hydro. With the transaxle only having 1 gear forward and one gear reverse there are less moving parts to wear out.

There are pros and cons with each mower you are looking at but in your price range they are all about the same and one is going to last as long as the other. Do just sit on them and see what one feels the best or go with what one looks the best.

Or go with what engine you like.

Carscw said:

I wish I could tell you which one will last longer but truth is I have broke both.

I have a 1981 ace mower ( mtd ) that still pulls good.

A 2005 husqvarna with a hydro that pulls still like new.
On all my mowers especially the hydro I let the clutch/ brake out and let it run in neutral for a min to warm things up.

What I do know is a hydro has a max rpm that it is made to run at. And is not the best for pulling a trailer or plowing snow.
If your not doing a lot of backing up I would go with a cvt.

I still think the cub cadet is the best mower in the $1500 price range.

The mtd variable Drive set up is one of the best. You have a non hydro that works like a hydro. With the transaxle only having 1 gear forward and one gear reverse there are less moving parts to wear out.

There are pros and cons with each mower you are looking at but in your price range they are all about the same and one is going to last as long as the other. Do just sit on them and see what one feels the best or go with what one looks the best.

Or go with what engine you like.

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Thanks for the advice! I will probably go check out quite a few this weekend and see how I feel then.
Are all motors in this range about the same as far as quality? The only one I saw with a "better" motor in my opinion is the Ariens (husqvarna) with the Briggs V-Twin. The rest are all single cylinder Briggs or Kohler (usually courage)

My_guy99 said:

And if I wanted to make it easy on myself he said I could buy this bottom case or just tap the holes myself, here's the email explain that as well!

I know my stuff, you don't even have this tractor why r you even concerned!!!!!

Below is my Trans perfect!

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You can just do what ever you like, I could really care less. What concerns me is the fact that your handing out information on sealed unit transmission that is not true according to the manufacturer and the statements you yourself posted earlier by the manufacturer. And just for your info you should look at my mower photo album before you shoot your mouth off about me not owning a tractor again.

wmblalock said:

Thanks for the advice! I will probably go check out quite a few this weekend and see how I feel then. Are all motors in this range about the same as far as quality? The only one I saw with a "better" motor in my opinion is the Ariens (husqvarna) with the Briggs V-Twin. The rest are all single cylinder Briggs or Kohler (usually courage)

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I like briggs but have a few single cylinder kohlers and like them they hold their rpms good and recover fast when they do bog down. For me a oil filter is a must.
A V twin is a plus.

Bet you did not think it would be this hard to pick a mower. They just don't make one that has everything you want in a riding mower.

I am building a mower out of many mowers. Taking what I think are the best from each mower and making one. More for fun than anything else

RIC ur a dumb@22, ur one of the guys that thinks he always right regardless if it's staring u n the face! I'm done wit u Jr!

My_guy99 said:

RIC ur a dumb@22, ur one of the guys that thinks he always right regardless if it's staring u n the face! I'm done wit u Jr!

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No I don't always think I'm right but I do follow and do what the manufacturer say to do or not to do, I've always figured they no more about the equipment than anyone else seeing how they only make the stuff ya know :smile:

The manufacturer has done study's and really do know what they are doing.

I just read through this thread and find the postings very interesting and you know what is staring me in the face? 99% of the time I don't agree with Ric or Carscw, but MyGuy99 this time they are right and you have to look at the big picture, not at just one part. I don't know what you're background is, but I do know that what you are trying to pass on as fact, is misinformation to the DYI members on this forum. Sealed means Sealed. I have torn apart and rebuilt more transmissions, transaxles, Hydrostats and rear ends than 95% of the members on this forum, so I feel I do know a little more than most members. Sealed units mean that these units are not designed to be serviced. Can someone service them? Yes, but not all parts may be available. Have I serviced sealed units? Yes, but have had to either scavenged parts from other units or had to match parts from serviceable units. This takes a lot of time and knowledge to do it this way. Have I been 100% successful, NO. Do I recommend repairing a sealed unit, almost never. Most of the time it is cheaper to replace the sealed unit than it is to repair it, but at times the replacement is no longer available and the customer wants to keep this machine. At my labor rate, this can get very pricey. I just recommend that before you pass on info on this forum, please make sure that, the info is directly related to an exact problem or is broad enough to apply to many different units. Vague or misinformation can be both expensive and dangerous to many who read it. Most members do not have the skills to understand or repair drive trains, and should not be pointed in that direction. My signature says what you can do with this post and I recommend to all others who look to this thread for answers to read each post very carefully.

Rivets said:

I just read through this thread and find the postings very interesting and you know what is staring me in the face? 99% of the time I don't agree with Ric or Carscw, but MyGuy99 this time they are right and you have to look at the big picture, not at just one part. I don't know what you're background is, but I do know that what you are trying to pass on as fact, is misinformation to the DYI members on this forum. Sealed means Sealed. I have torn apart and rebuilt more transmissions, transaxles, Hydrostats and rear ends than 95% of the members on this forum, so I feel I do know a little more than most members. Sealed units mean that these units are not designed to be serviced. Can someone service them? Yes, but not all parts may not be available. Have I serviced sealed units? Yes, but have had to either scavenged parts from other units or had to match parts from serviceable units. This takes a lot of time and knowledge to do it this way. Have I been 100% successful, NO. Do I recommend repairing a sealed unit, almost never. Most of the time it is cheaper to replace the sealed unit than it is to repair it, but at times the replacement is no longer available and the customer wants to keep this machine. At my labor rate, this can get very pricey. I just recommend that before you pass on info on this forum, please make sure that, the info is directly related to an exact problem or is broad enough to apply to many different units. Vague or misinformation can be both expensive and dangerous to many who read it. Most members are do not have the skills to understand or repair to drive trains, and should not be pointed in that direction. My signature says what you can do with this post and I recommend to all others who look to this thread for answers to read each post very carefully.

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You don't agree with me 99% of the time?
That almost hurt my feelings.

Very good wrote post thank you for your input.

Lmao! U guys are so right! I know nothing and for some reason the manufacture told me what I should do to there product to prolong the life of the unit! I made it all up, don't worry I'll take my ball an go home and all my service experience of 55yrs as well! That's maybe the reason why I don't post on this particular form good day! -

Don't really care if you leave but can you leave the ball.

Man you can not get mad and leave when things don't go your way.

Not everyone is going to agree with you or do things your way all the time.

A sealed trany should not have to be serviced unless one u drive the crap out of it and don't use the clutch proper if u use it right it will last for a long time ...I have had some come in to the shop that were wore out and 9 times out of 10 its because of in proper use of the transaxle IE not using clutch pulling stuff that's to darn heavy etc ...I have a cheap MTD that I beat the guts out of I use to push and pull stuff around at the shop heck I even move my car float with it ...Its all in how u use it but then again I have old tractors kicking around for parts...Its cheaper to put a used trans in it then it is to repair the one that messed up ...Have I taken them apart and serviced them yes on my own

wmblalock said:

2. Ariens A22A46 - 46", CVT Auto, 22HP V-Twin Dual Cylinder B&S ($1449)
Biggest Concern: Foot throttle controls. I have not driven either of these mowers, but I feel in my large, flat yard that having to hold the gas pedal down for hours would make the leg sore. Sure, there is a cruise control feature, but I read that it's hard to engage and use. I sat on this model at the store and the throttle pedal seemed very hard to push like the clutch. Is that right, or was that one messed up? I feel just being able to reach over with a fender control would be much easier and less fatiguing. What do you guys prefer or think about foot controls vs fender controls?
Advantages: Smoother and more powerful V-Twin B&S motor, Quality built Husqvarna mower, CVT Transmission which should in theory be more reliable than hydrostatic right?

The main thing I am interested in is reliability. I don't want to waste $1500 on a mower that I have to trash in a few years.

Do you guys think CVT has more longevity than Hydrostatic? I read the hydrostatic transmissions are not serviceable, and thus they tend to prematurely wear out. I gather the CVT transmissions don't have anything that needs to be serviced except a new belt from time to time, thus making it probable that it would last longer. What do you guys think about this idea? Am I correct? Wrong?

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I've got a fair amount of turns and such on our lawn that I would HATE a fender mounted control. What I like about the foot control is it drives just like a car, one or 2 hands on the wheel, push the pedal to go faster, release it (slowly) to slow down and stop. Simple, and works like a car. It's really not that heavy to keep holding down - I'd say about like an accelerator in a car. Granted, I've got size 13 feet, so I may have some additional leverage but it's no big deal at all. Reaching around and messing with a fender control I think would get old real quick, especially since I have a fair amount of obstacles and don't do 1 speed all the time. If your land is flat and obstacle free, a fender may work better.

For the cruise control - mine was a little hard to engage in the beginning as well. What I did was simply get at the linkage with a spray can of white lithium grease and it works like butter. I think mine was a little corrosion from being the "display model" at Home Depot which was stored outside.

I really think the CVT will last longer than a hydro. It is a much simpler unit ( head over to Element V Automatic - By General Transmissions to see about it) - it's pretty much a couple pulleys, some belts, and gears all drenched in grease or gear lube. The same stuff car bearings are packed with or the oil that's in a car differential. The Ariens has the RS-800 unit. The only complaint I have on mine is that the revers - forward transition can be a little jerky and it's slow in reverse But I think the slow in reverse is true of all new mowers now.

I take good care of my stuff and don't see a reason this unit won't last 10-15 years as long as you follow the service and replace parts as needed. Heck, my cheap Craftsman 22" is 5 years old and runs strong, no deck rust, and about the only thing I have replied is the drive wheels due to the plastic gears.

itguy08 said:

I've got a fair amount of turns and such on our lawn that I would HATE a fender mounted control. What I like about the foot control is it drives just like a car, one or 2 hands on the wheel, push the pedal to go faster, release it (slowly) to slow down and stop. Simple, and works like a car. It's really not that heavy to keep holding down - I'd say about like an accelerator in a car. Granted, I've got size 13 feet, so I may have some additional leverage but it's no big deal at all. Reaching around and messing with a fender control I think would get old real quick, especially since I have a fair amount of obstacles and don't do 1 speed all the time. If your land is flat and obstacle free, a fender may work better.

For the cruise control - mine was a little hard to engage in the beginning as well. What I did was simply get at the linkage with a spray can of white lithium grease and it works like butter. I think mine was a little corrosion from being the "display model" at Home Depot which was stored outside.

I really think the CVT will last longer than a hydro. It is a much simpler unit ( head over to Element V Automatic - By General Transmissions to see about it) - it's pretty much a couple pulleys, some belts, and gears all drenched in grease or gear lube. The same stuff car bearings are packed with or the oil that's in a car differential. The Ariens has the RS-800 unit. The only complaint I have on mine is that the revers - forward transition can be a little jerky and it's slow in reverse But I think the slow in reverse is true of all new mowers now.

I take good care of my stuff and don't see a reason this unit won't last 10-15 years as long as you follow the service and replace parts as needed. Heck, my cheap Craftsman 22" is 5 years old and runs strong, no deck rust, and about the only thing I have replied is the drive wheels due to the plastic gears.

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Thanks for the advice. I keep bouncing back and forth between the two, but I do feel the Ariens, built by Husqvarna would probably be the longer lasting machine. It's hard to argue with 250+ Great reviews. I also really like the VTwin, I feel it would last longer and power through more than a single cylinder engine. I also agree about the tranny simplicity. Is there a way to change the gear lube at all?

wmblalock said:

Thanks for the advice. I keep bouncing back and forth between the two, but I do feel the Ariens, built by Husqvarna would probably be the longer lasting machine. It's hard to argue with 250+ Great reviews. I also really like the VTwin, I feel it would last longer and power through more than a single cylinder engine. I also agree about the tranny simplicity. Is there a way to change the gear lube at all?

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You sound like you're where I was before I bought mine! I knew I wanted a VTwin because of the smoothness and most likely better torque than a single. (And, IMHO it sounds like a car starting. ) Like you I saw the good reviews on the Ariens and jumped in. I also found that at the sub $3k mark, most of these mowers are pretty much the same. Low end hydro unit, thinner frame and steel, and an engine, all built by Husqvarna, MTD, or Briggs (Murray). The Ariens seems to be well built and a decent middle of the road mower.

I'm not sure on changing the gear lube. The General Transmissions' website doesn't go into it much at all but by looking at the design, I suspect that this transmission is using some sort of grease for the gears. It would make sense given the design and maintenance free nature of it. I figure if a car can go 50-60k+ on bearing grease my mower will last quite a long time - even after 10 years of, say 10 miles mowing, that's only 5200 miles.

itguy08 said:

You sound like you're where I was before I bought mine! I knew I wanted a VTwin because of the smoothness and most likely better torque than a single. (And, IMHO it sounds like a car starting. ) Like you I saw the good reviews on the Ariens and jumped in. I also found that at the sub $3k mark, most of these mowers are pretty much the same. Low end hydro unit, thinner frame and steel, and an engine, all built by Husqvarna, MTD, or Briggs (Murray). The Ariens seems to be well built and a decent middle of the road mower.

I'm not sure on changing the gear lube. The General Transmissions' website doesn't go into it much at all but by looking at the design, I suspect that this transmission is using some sort of grease for the gears. It would make sense given the design and maintenance free nature of it. I figure if a car can go 50-60k+ on bearing grease my mower will last quite a long time - even after 10 years of, say 10 miles mowing, that's only 5200 miles.

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Most of the lubes in your Transmissions will vary but as far as I know they all take some type of oil. My Toro GS recommends there own Toro Hypr-Oil 500 hydraulic oil and to change every 500hours or if you prefer use mobil 1 15w50 and change every 250 hours. Now the Cub Cadets with the 2800 drives say to use a 15w40 motor oil. I would assume the transmissions in tractors would also use motor oil of some type.

wmblalock,

If have any future plans to put snowplow on the new mower then dont one thats hydrostatic. It shortens the life of the hydro when using a snowplow.

davbell22602 said:

wmblalock,

If have any future plans to put snowplow on the new mower then dont one thats hydrostatic. It shortens the life of the hydro when using a snowplow.

Click to expand...

I think I would want a sturdier trans and fender control if I was doing anything other than mowing I had the fender controls on my old Murray and I liked it lots of control

I like the fender control it gives you better control. And you don't have to reach for it it is right there. My cub has the foot pedal and as much as I like the cub my husqvarna with the fender control is so much more comfortable to use

wmblalock said:

I am buying a new house that sits on a 1.4 acre lot, and need a riding mower.
The lot is overgrown right now, but flat for the most part, except for a raised septic drain field which could take some power to climb.
I do not intend to use this mower for any activities other than cutting grass and am very good with maintenance.

I am looking to spend between $1,000-$1,500 on a new mower, the less the better.
At the same time, I want the best bang for the buck in regards to longevity and usability.
I was looking at the basic $1,000 Craftsman models and other bottom of the line box store models, but they get horrible reviews and seem to be complete garbage, not what I want!

What do you guys think about Hydostatic vs CVT transmissions, is one really better than the other in performance or longevity?

Here are 4 options I found through my research.
I am really stuck between the first two, the Ariens and the Craftsman.
All of these models have full pressure oil systems, deck wheels, and automatic transmissions.
Let me know what you guys think would be the best option!

1. ($1,449) Ariens A22A46 46" 22HP V-Twin Dual Cylinder Briggs & Stratton Automatic Riding Mower #960460056
- I really like the idea of a V-Twin dual cylinder B&S. I tend to delay between mows, so more power is welcome to tame the overgrowth. Is it better than a Kohler Single Cylinder 22HP on the Craftsman below?
- This one has the most reviews at 225 scoring a 4.4 / 5.0. Almost everyone loves it, says it's built great, and has tons of power. I figure this power will be needed in my overgrown property.
- I am not sure if it has a CVT or Hydrostatic tranny as some people have reported the earlier ones were hydrostatic and the newer ones have a CVT. Does it matter? Is one much better than the other?
- I like the wide 46" deck, cruise control, all metal construction, large gas tank, etc.
- I like the hose hookup to flush the deck.
- From what I gather, this mower is made by Husqvarna.

2. ($1,299) Craftsman LT2500 46" 22HP Kohler Single Cylinder Hydro Riding Mower
- I am mostly stuck between this and the Ariens. This is $150 cheaper, has the Craftsman name / support, and seems to have the same features but different engine.
- Is the V-Twin B&S in the Ariens better than the single cylinder Kohler? Is one more reliable than the other? At 22HP, they should both have the same power right?
- This definitely has a hydostatic transmission per the specs.
- Only has 36 reviews scoring a 4.0/5.0. Some great reviews, some bad reviews about engine failure and a finicky hydostatic tranny.
- I am pretty sure this mower is made by Husqvarna as well.

3. ($1,399) Cub Cadet LTX10410 42" 19HP Kohler Single Cylinder Courage Automatic Riding Mower
- CVT Transmission
- 3 year warranty, the others have 2 years.
- Cub Cadet is made by MTC. MTD makes mostly junk from what I gather, but their Cub Cadets are actually pretty good quality?
- Is the quality going to be much better than the Ariens or Craftsman made by Husqvarna?
- Has a smaller 19HP Kohler motor, smaller 42" Deck, and higher price than Craftsman? Is the quality offset worth these downgrades?

4. ($1,499) John Deere D105 42" 17.5HP Automatic Riding Mower
- This is the most expensive, and has the smallest engine at 17.5HP.
- Is the quality of the Deere that much higher than the others that it warrants the highest price tag even though it has the weakest motor and smallest deck?
- It has 65 reviews that score it 4.2/5.0. A few complain about the lack of power, which I don't like.
- There are also several complaints about quality and malfunctions. Doesn't seem to me that the quality is any better than the others, what do you guys think?

Click to expand...

Back in 1997 I bought the cheapest rider available - when to the big box and bought a MTD. 16 horse 42in cut, 7 speed. Change oil once a year and still going strong. Same belts. Have done nothing to it except changed the battery a couple of times. Best $1,000 I spend ever.

briggs said:

NO box store stuff u wont get good service ..If any at all ....As the others said buy from a dealer ....Ariens has a good Selection also

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Okay, having dealt with these mowers and repaired them for about 40 years, consider the up front price as only a part of the picture. As for the costs of blades and other "normal" repairs this should also be considered. The highest cost for blades is Cub Cadet and John Deere. These two brands also have parts that are hard to get from a wholesale parts house, so you will pay dearly. As for the quality of the motors it is pretty much a wash, as each brand will have either a Briggs or a Kohler. If you take good care of either one it will do you a good job for years and years. The width of the cut is also a consideration. I have 3 acres and use a 42" cut which requires only 2 blades, and about 2 hrs of time. Most of the mowers wider than 42" will use 3 blades which will cost you almost 2x.

Here is my opinion based on working on the mowers as well as having a large yard to cut.

1- I would NEVER buy a Troy Bilt even if it was 1/2 the price of a similar size mower. They are a piece of (expletive), the hardest to work on, way too many drive parts.

2- John Deere is a joke, believe me on this. Poor quality on the drive system.

3- Ariens is a good selection, easy to work on and standard parts.

4- Craftsman is a good ride, easy to work on, parts easily available. (I have one, a 42", 2001 model, with 3 acres to cut in mid-Georgia.... lots of cutting season, and still in great condition)

The bottom line is that most people think they are getting a good deal when they get a new mower from a big-box store and usually think they NEED a new one. Well, its like this: Change the oil yearly, change the air filter yearly, keep the tires properly inflated, do not store it in the sun but if you have no choice then cover the tires so the sun exposure will not deteriorate them, use a gas fortification product like Sta-Bil or Seafoam and the carburetor/fuel system will never give trouble, never use gas older than 2 months, and ALWAYS blow all the cut grass off when done mowing, and for the sake of whomever NEVER mow when the grass is wet or even damp. Oh, and if you happen to have a Briggs engine, be sure to set the valves as directed.

How long should a mower last? Well, it operates at about 3200 to 3500 R.P.M. If it were a car for example, that would be equivalent to going down the interstate at about 80 to 85 M.P.H. No problem with that. So, for each one hour of cutting you would have traveled lets say 85 miles in a car. A vehicle which gets good maintenance will easily get 150,000 miles on it. Divide this out and you will get 1,764 one-hour mowing sessions....... go figure.

In my experiance i keep them until the warranty is off or + 1 year
I have had 14hp briggs 42" cheapest MTD (gear drive)they make ran it for 2 years probably the cheapest on gas sold it at about 1/2 price.
every thing after that was a hydro drive.
bought a sears 20hp 42" much improved ride used more gas no noticeable difference in lawn cut or in speed of doing the job gave to the brother inlaw.
bought a sears 28 hp 54" cut 3 blade (best cut) again a little more confortable and more gas again kept for a snow blower.
bought a 20hp 46" kohler cub cadet blades are a little on the expensive side no proper fitting aftermarket blades(do not use the universal blades they in my opinion are hard on spindle shafts) on 2nd year of 4 year warranty
observations I cut 5 acres some of it is rough, trees, hills, and lawn. I average 100 hr a year.
A garden tractor is built heavier duty than a lawn tractor (in my situation worth any extra) 14-20 hp and I would lean to a 14hp single or twin and a 3 blade 42"deck.
After the first 25 hours they all went to synthetic oil and a filter at every 50hr the exception was the cheap MTD which got 30w diesel oil and filter every 50 hr
The cheaper lawn tractors seem to me have lighter steering components and deck lift/attachment points and perhaps deck shells.
Weewilly

Have you considered a used heavy duty riding mower. Most heavy duty mowers holder their abilities for 20 years or more. Frequently a used mower can be reconditioned to new performance levels for less money then the cost of a new (cheap) riding mower. You also wind up with heavier duty machine.

wmblalock said:

I am buying a new house that sits on a 1.4 acre lot, and need a riding mower.
The lot is overgrown right now, but flat for the most part, except for a raised septic drain field which could take some power to climb.
I do not intend to use this mower for any activities other than cutting grass and am very good with maintenance.

I am looking to spend between $1,000-$1,500 on a new mower, the less the better.
At the same time, I want the best bang for the buck in regards to longevity and usability.
I was looking at the basic $1,000 Craftsman models and other bottom of the line box store models, but they get horrible reviews and seem to be complete garbage, not what I want!

What do you guys think about Hydostatic vs CVT transmissions, is one really better than the other in performance or longevity?

Here are 4 options I found through my research.
I am really stuck between the first two, the Ariens and the Craftsman.
All of these models have full pressure oil systems, deck wheels, and automatic transmissions.
Let me know what you guys think would be the best option!

1. ($1,449) Ariens A22A46 46" 22HP V-Twin Dual Cylinder Briggs & Stratton Automatic Riding Mower #960460056
- I really like the idea of a V-Twin dual cylinder B&S. I tend to delay between mows, so more power is welcome to tame the overgrowth. Is it better than a Kohler Single Cylinder 22HP on the Craftsman below?
- This one has the most reviews at 225 scoring a 4.4 / 5.0. Almost everyone loves it, says it's built great, and has tons of power. I figure this power will be needed in my overgrown property.
- I am not sure if it has a CVT or Hydrostatic tranny as some people have reported the earlier ones were hydrostatic and the newer ones have a CVT. Does it matter? Is one much better than the other?
- I like the wide 46" deck, cruise control, all metal construction, large gas tank, etc.
- I like the hose hookup to flush the deck.
- From what I gather, this mower is made by Husqvarna.

2. ($1,299) Craftsman LT2500 46" 22HP Kohler Single Cylinder Hydro Riding Mower
- I am mostly stuck between this and the Ariens. This is $150 cheaper, has the Craftsman name / support, and seems to have the same features but different engine.
- Is the V-Twin B&S in the Ariens better than the single cylinder Kohler? Is one more reliable than the other? At 22HP, they should both have the same power right?
- This definitely has a hydostatic transmission per the specs.
- Only has 36 reviews scoring a 4.0/5.0. Some great reviews, some bad reviews about engine failure and a finicky hydostatic tranny.
- I am pretty sure this mower is made by Husqvarna as well.

3. ($1,399) Cub Cadet LTX10410 42" 19HP Kohler Single Cylinder Courage Automatic Riding Mower
- CVT Transmission
- 3 year warranty, the others have 2 years.
- Cub Cadet is made by MTC. MTD makes mostly junk from what I gather, but their Cub Cadets are actually pretty good quality?
- Is the quality going to be much better than the Ariens or Craftsman made by Husqvarna?
- Has a smaller 19HP Kohler motor, smaller 42" Deck, and higher price than Craftsman? Is the quality offset worth these downgrades?

4. ($1,499) John Deere D105 42" 17.5HP Automatic Riding Mower
- This is the most expensive, and has the smallest engine at 17.5HP.
- Is the quality of the Deere that much higher than the others that it warrants the highest price tag even though it has the weakest motor and smallest deck?
- It has 65 reviews that score it 4.2/5.0. A few complain about the lack of power, which I don't like.
- There are also several complaints about quality and malfunctions. Doesn't seem to me that the quality is any better than the others, what do you guys think?

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I got tired of reading the posts so I might be repeating something.
Too small for your application, but I used a Toro 8HP, 32" cut, manual tranny, rear engine rider that gave 20 years of excellent service. Single blade, nice cut, even clippings distribution. I replaced the drive belt once, had the shifter welded together twice (had to use reverse a bunch), and did routine maintenance. Never did anything with the tranny and it still works like new. If they build their tractors like that rider, it'd be a winner. I bought a TroyBilt 18HP, 42" cut, CVT while I worked at Lowe's. Do not buy a TroyBilt tractor or any other make that resembles it!!!!!!!!! Lousy cut and clippings distribution, unreliable, and it breaks. I prefer the manual to the CVT because my old leg gets tired and the TB cruise doesn't work well..

Thanks for all the replies guys! I ended up getting a used John Deere GX255 mower with power steering, 54" deck, kawasaki motor, beefy hydrostatic tranny for $2000 with only 300hrs on it. It is a bit more than I wanted to spend, but I feel it will last me much longer in the end.

We own and operate a Landscape Maint business in North Texas. I agree with some of the others on this thread, I would invest another $1,000 or so and buy yourself a good homeowner model zero turn. We use Toro, Exmark and Hustler's. Toro makes the "Time Cutter" line for homeowners. Toro's and Hustler's are pretty much bullet proof as long as you change the oil when you should and keep the air filters clean. The speed and quality of cut (not to mention riding comfort) far exceeds any tractor on the market. Money well spent. As we used to say when selling guns to folks, "buy the best, it only hurts once." We have Toro walk behind (self propelled's) that have been in service for four years now, which is probably equivalent to you using it for 40 years. And our Hustler 32" "Mini" zero turn that we use for large backyards is probably six years old. Tough as nails.

Hello
I feel that the lawn Mower's you have mentioned are all light duty machines that will eventually break down. They are not designed to be run mowing high acreage like you are wanting to mow. If you have $1500.00 to spend the Most Mower for your Money would be a John Deere 316. The later one's have an Open frame design just like the 318's and also have the same engine as the 318's do being an Onan P-218 engine which is considered to be an Industrial engine that will run much longer and stronger than that of a cheaper made riding lawn mower. Like it or not the newer generation riding lawn mower's all have engines on them that are made in China and have not been lasting that long was well as their Mowing deck's that have had issues with Failed Blade spindle bearing's or worse yet the deck's rot out as they are much thinner than the deck's found on a Vintage John Deere Tractor. I Often see the Home Depot or Lowe's lawn Riding mower's in the bone yard's all ready where as I Rarely See any John Deere 316's or 318's as they Tend to last much, much Longer. The Later made John Deere 316's are a Bargain priced Tractor not commanding the price of that of the 318's and the only differences are that the 316 will have a single brake pedal, No Power steering, and an H-1 hydraulic spool which means they have a Hydraulic Lift system to lift their Mowing deck but lack the second Hydraulic lever used to turn the angle of a Hydraulic Four way blade. If your Primary chore will be just Mowing Grass then a John Deere 316 will Fit the bill and Out last any of these cheaper made Mower's by Multiple Decades.







I recently built one for my son in law. We got the Tractor for $50.00 Not running. I had to sort out some electric issues to get it up and running, then I stripped it down to it's rolling Chassis, painted the entire frame and wheel's then painted all of it's Body panel's. I bought a 1985 John Deere 317 lawn Tractor for part's that we lacked on the 316 and ended up using it's 48" mowing deck, One Rear tire and wheel that was brand new, The rear tail Light harness as a John Deere 316 comes with Red reflector's Not tail Light's like the 318 has, it's Throttle lever Knob, Headlight switch, and brake pedal rubber portion with the metal support under it. I had to give $100.00 for it but the deck was easily worth twice what I gave for the Tractor. Once we stripped all of the part's that we lacked off of it we scraped the rest of it and got $70.00 for it without it's engine or mowing deck I had to return the Kohler K-17 engine that was Blown Up to the guy that sold it to me as part of the sales agreement, but we got the deck and other part's off it for $30.00 Invested. I did a total restore on the Tractor and we ended up having just $362.00 total with all of the part's that we bought as well as the John Deere 317 part's Tractor. Here are the before restoration pictures as well as how it all turned out. Be Patient there is some of these John Deere 316's out there that are very reasonable in their price Range and they are an Investment Tractor that will surely last you decades past these cheaper made riding lawn mowers. The earlier John Deere 316's will have the Kohler single cylinder 16 Horsepower engine in them and they are a closed frame design tractor but the later one's will have the Onan P-218 engine that is 18 Horsepower and a Twin cylinder engine that run's a Lot smoother and has more power than the Kohler single cylinder 16 Horse power engine. engine I hope this help's, Hammerdown






Here is how the 1991 John Deere 316 looked the day I hauled it home and gave $50.00 for it. believe it or not, it only had 349.2 Hour's on it's original Hour meter. The reason it looks so rough is that it spent most of it's former life in Stuart, Florida very close to the Ocean where the salt air corroded it badly






Here it is Six grueling Week's after I got it home all finished. It now is mowing weekly at my son in laws Place and has not missed a beat since I built it for him

after many many years of owning mowers and watching others use mowers - I have owned an Ariens - never again - a royal pain to do anything with - way too complicated for what they do - although I now own a Simplicity and mow an acre - it is 22 years old and cost a lot when new - it too is a bit more complicated than necessary - not cheap to repair but it doesn't break often either
get plenty of power and for sure get hydro or the CVT - I don't know about the reliability of the CVTs - for sure no 3 blade deck under 48" - you will sorry if you fall for that trash no matter who makes it - there is not enough blade speed....maybe if you are a bit mechanically inclined - find a good used mower - my brother does that all the time and he mows a considerable amount - van

wmblalock said:

I am buying a new house that sits on a 1.4 acre lot, and need a riding mower.
The lot is overgrown right now, but flat for the most part, except for a raised septic drain field which could take some power to climb.
I do not intend to use this mower for any activities other than cutting grass and am very good with maintenance.

I am looking to spend between $1,000-$1,500 on a new mower, the less the better.
At the same time, I want the best bang for the buck in regards to longevity and usability.
I was looking at the basic $1,000 Craftsman models and other bottom of the line box store models, but they get horrible reviews and seem to be complete garbage, not what I want!

What do you guys think about Hydostatic vs CVT transmissions, is one really better than the other in performance or longevity?

Here are 4 options I found through my research.
I am really stuck between the first two, the Ariens and the Craftsman.
All of these models have full pressure oil systems, deck wheels, and automatic transmissions.
Let me know what you guys think would be the best option!

1. ($1,449) Ariens A22A46 46" 22HP V-Twin Dual Cylinder Briggs & Stratton Automatic Riding Mower #960460056
- I really like the idea of a V-Twin dual cylinder B&S. I tend to delay between mows, so more power is welcome to tame the overgrowth. Is it better than a Kohler Single Cylinder 22HP on the Craftsman below?
- This one has the most reviews at 225 scoring a 4.4 / 5.0. Almost everyone loves it, says it's built great, and has tons of power. I figure this power will be needed in my overgrown property.
- I am not sure if it has a CVT or Hydrostatic tranny as some people have reported the earlier ones were hydrostatic and the newer ones have a CVT. Does it matter? Is one much better than the other?
- I like the wide 46" deck, cruise control, all metal construction, large gas tank, etc.
- I like the hose hookup to flush the deck.
- From what I gather, this mower is made by Husqvarna.

2. ($1,299) Craftsman LT2500 46" 22HP Kohler Single Cylinder Hydro Riding Mower
- I am mostly stuck between this and the Ariens. This is $150 cheaper, has the Craftsman name / support, and seems to have the same features but different engine.
- Is the V-Twin B&S in the Ariens better than the single cylinder Kohler? Is one more reliable than the other? At 22HP, they should both have the same power right?
- This definitely has a hydostatic transmission per the specs.
- Only has 36 reviews scoring a 4.0/5.0. Some great reviews, some bad reviews about engine failure and a finicky hydostatic tranny.
- I am pretty sure this mower is made by Husqvarna as well.

3. ($1,399) Cub Cadet LTX10410 42" 19HP Kohler Single Cylinder Courage Automatic Riding Mower
- CVT Transmission
- 3 year warranty, the others have 2 years.
- Cub Cadet is made by MTC. MTD makes mostly junk from what I gather, but their Cub Cadets are actually pretty good quality?
- Is the quality going to be much better than the Ariens or Craftsman made by Husqvarna?
- Has a smaller 19HP Kohler motor, smaller 42" Deck, and higher price than Craftsman? Is the quality offset worth these downgrades?

4. ($1,499) John Deere D105 42" 17.5HP Automatic Riding Mower
- This is the most expensive, and has the smallest engine at 17.5HP.
- Is the quality of the Deere that much higher than the others that it warrants the highest price tag even though it has the weakest motor and smallest deck?
- It has 65 reviews that score it 4.2/5.0. A few complain about the lack of power, which I don't like.
- There are also several complaints about quality and malfunctions. Doesn't seem to me that the quality is any better than the others, what do you guys think?

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Ric said:

The thing is your servicing a sealed unit, a unit that is a sealed unit for a reason. The unit your doing preventative maintenance on should out live the mower itself without service or it wouldn't have been a sealed unit in the first place. Your talking about a homeowner unit that probably wont accumulate 30 to 35 hours a year and if your mower has a decent warranty say 3 year 180 hr which ever comes first type of thing it should out live the warranty and if it doesn't it's there problem to fix or replace, if it does out live the warranty chances are good you'll probably never have an issue with the unit for the life of the mower.

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Ric, I have to interject this into the conversation; Last year I purchased a Husqvarna GTH27V52LS used, it had 42 hours on it and had been sitting for a year. During the clean up I found a sticker from the dealer that sold the mower originally. I went to that dealer and asked him about the transmission, as I have been following the transmission problems with the TuffTorque 46 transmissions on this site for some months. The dealer told me that my mower had a "sealed" transmission and the factory recommended that it never be serviced.
Upon searching I found that my unit had a HydroGear G7 transmission and the manufacturer posted a manual for that transmission. This "sealed" transmission has a spin-on type filter, a drain plug, and a fluid level indicator plug. In addition the manufacture recommends a 50 hour fluid and filter change and a change each 100 hours after that.
Maybe you need to rethink your "sealed transmissions are sealed for a reason" argument and realize that many transmission manufactures seal the transmissions at the mower manufactures request to lower the price of the unit to put in entry level tractors to sell those folks who only buy a mower to use until it quits and then buy a new one.
There are those of us out there who are able and willing to maintain our units to extend their life beyond what the seller recommends.
My last mower was a Craftsman that was purchased in 1982, and was in good enough condition last year to sell easily for $500.
I expect my Huskvarana to last as long as I do.

As a mechanic with four decades of experience, I have to say the Ariens has always seemed to me to be a superior machine..
Craftsman is supported by Sears but Sears is now the step child of Kmart's parent company, and they never made the machines just bought them from American Yard Products.
Most of John Deere small stuff is made by someone else as well.
Recent experience with Cub Cadet in a institutional setting included expenditures on repair parts exceeding three other mowers.
The best engine for power, smooth run, and longevity is the twin cylinder Briggs.
I looked up the Ariens model (parts are listed on the web site) it is a hydrostatic drive- keep the dust blown off the drive axle but do not pressure wash the drive as water can be foreced into the axle and destroy the hydraulics.

The truth is that a zero turn would cut your mowing time if you have many trees aor shrubs, but if you have STEEP slopes they can be hazardous.
If you are not into maintaining or repairing your own, a local dealer is a good idea, I worked as service manager for a dealer once, and the mowers from other sources had an extra layer of B.S. to negotiate before gettings repairs.

All said any of these mowers could do the job, any of them could be a "lemon", you pays your money and takes your choice, hopefully you will get a good experience.

Unless your stuck on a new mower , consider a used higher end John Deere or gravely look around and you should be able to find something in that range.

dunoon said:

Unless your stuck on a new mower , consider a used higher end John Deere or gravely look around and you should be able to find something in that range.

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Exactly. You can either spend the time in the seat of a Good Older Vintage John Deere lawn Tractor say a 316 or a 318, or spend your time and money repairing these Lighter duty Mower's the choice is yours I have had my 1983 John Deere 318 for seven year's now and mow two acres of grass per week with it during our Eight month Mowing season, and it has Yet to let me down or break down it just keeps on Going, and Going and Going well past it's 30th Birthday. Show me one of the Other's Posted that are well past their Thirty year mark... Regards, Hammerdown

Cub cadet over 40 years old. And still one of the best riding mowers made today.

I will agree that junk Deere did make some very good riding mowers back 20 years ago. Heck even 10 years ago.

Carscw said:

Cub cadet over 40 years old. And still one of the best riding mowers made today.

I will agree that junk Deere did make some very good riding mowers back 20 years ago. Heck even 10 years ago.

View attachment 21011

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Hello
Both John Deere and Cub Cadet sold their soles to the Devil when they started making the Cheap tin riding mower's that are sold at Home Depot or Lowes. The Old saying you get what you pay for is soon relaized by those that Bought those Glorified MTD's. My son in law had a 1991 Cub Cadet that was a Model 1541. It was a Good solid machine with it's Kohler twin cylinder 18 Horsepower engine, but the cyclops Cheaply made Plastic body panels were Pure Junk they all cracked and fell apart on his machine. I recently Built him a 1991 John deere 316 that has metal engine Panel's on it and the Onan P-218 engine in it that he Likes much more than he did his Cub. The problem I had with Cub cadet's is that they do not have models very long as his was only offered for two year's so part's were a P.I.T. A. to get or locate for it. John Deere stick's with their Models longer and Part's are never an issue they stock them for Tractor's made back in the Mid 1960's. They made the 316 and the 318 Tractor's for almost Eleven year's so there are plenty of them out there and all of the Part's are still available Unlike that Cub Cadet Model 1541 of his that we were glad that we sold after Building his John Deere 316 he couldn't be happier now. Regards, Hammerdown

I'd have to go with #1 because Kohler engines has left a bad impression on me. After 3 years the engine some how managed to bend one of the pushrods causing it to run on only one cylinder. It ran like garbage even after repair. the power was back, but it just sounded crappy.

Kohler is at the very bottom. I think they should stick to making toilets and faucets.

Hammerdown said:

Hello
Both John Deere and Cub Cadet sold their soles to the Devil when they started making the Cheap tin riding mower's that are sold at Home Depot or Lowes. The Old saying you get what you pay for is soon relaized by those that Bought those Glorified MTD's. My son in law had a 1991 Cub Cadet that was a Model 1541. It was a Good solid machine with it's Kohler twin cylinder 18 Horsepower engine, but the cyclops Cheaply made Plastic body panels were Pure Junk they all cracked and fell apart on his machine. I recently Built him a 1991 John deere 316 that has metal engine Panel's on it and the Onan P-218 engine in it that he Likes much more than he did his Cub. The problem I had with Cub cadet's is that they do not have models very long as his was only offered for two year's so part's were a P.I.T. A. to get or locate for it. John Deere stick's with their Models longer and Part's are never an issue they stock them for Tractor's made back in the Mid 1960's. They made the 316 and the 318 Tractor's for almost Eleven year's so there are plenty of them out there and all of the Part's are still available Unlike that Cub Cadet Model 1541 of his that we were glad that we sold after Building his John Deere 316 he couldn't be happier now. Regards, Hammerdown

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I don't have a problem with plastic components as long as it is a quality polymer. Good quality plastic that acts like a hard rubber will take insane abuse and hold its shape. Metal on the other hand is heavy, bends, and rusts. Fenders are one good example that can make use of quality plastics. Mower decks on the other hand wound never work with such materials, because you need a ridged design that resist flex. The right material for the right application.

If you haven't already bought a mower, maybe go to the oldest, most respected mower/ small engine repair shop in town, bring a sack of donuts, and ask the mechanics. They will tell you the ones that are the easiest and cheapest to repar. If they also sell a certain brand, all bets are off.

I probably should not jinx my Craftsman dyt 4000 trans by saying that it has been trouble free for 10 years mowing 1.5 acres , including heavy weeds. This is unlike the Intek engine which was a problem. I do not abuse the shifting fwd/reverse and wait for motion to stop before changing etc. Also use a rake and star tooth fertilizer which is a significant load. The baggers (3) put another 120 lbs on the unit. fyi

I have 2.5 acres and was "left" a ten year old Craftsman that is STILL a work horse. The best part is that Sears now ONLY comes to your house/ranch for repairs. Gone are the days of having to trailer it in. Tires, transmission, new blades, they've got it all and are in and out of your place super fast. Bottom line, if you're going to spend that kind of money, get something that either you can work on or a device that others will come to your house and fix. :smile: