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I rescued a 17 hp Toro Wheel Horse. Got everything to work very well but has an annoying (doesn't effect mowing performance, deck adjusted to compensate) twisted look when viewed from the front.

So far haven't found where the twist actually is - assume chassis.

Thoughts & suggestions on a fix will be much appreciated.

Where of all the experts gone, long time in replying????????

The fix would depend on the twist location. And could be different depending on if the frame is twisted at the front axle, the back axle, or if it was grabbed at the ends and the whole thing twisted.

Thanks ILENGINE

Twist seems to be between seat and front axle but hard to be sure, without a complete dismantle. Could be in body or in frame or both.
Have no idea of how someone could do this but did come from a very hilly/steep property and owner seems to have been somewhat rough on the poor thing (needed lots of minor repairs).
It's not a burning issue, as mower works well & does a good job (deck adjusted to be level with ground).

Skippydiesel said:

Where of all the experts gone, long time in replying????????

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Nobody replied because how/why would you repair a twisted mower frame on an old Wheel Horse mower probably 30-40 years old?

Tiger Small Engine said:

Nobody replied because how/why would you repair a twisted mower frame on an old Wheel Horse mower probably 30-40 years old?

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That's an appalling opinion.

What has age got to do with it?

Mower works well but I would like it to look straight. It's a plastic bonnet, so most likly under 10 years old - I also have a metal bonnet Wheel Horse (thats nice a straight) that also works very well and far better built than the plastic bonnet models (because it's older.)

I take it you belong to the "throw away generation"

Skippydiesel said:

That's an appalling opinion.

What has age got to do with it?

Mower works well but I would like it to look straight. It's a plastic bonnet, so most likly under 10 years old - I also have a metal bonnet Wheel Horse (thats nice a straight) that also works very well and far better built than the plastic bonnet models (because it's older.)

I take it you belong to the "throw away generation"

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Yes, that is why it is not uncommon for me to work on mowers that are 20,25,30 years and sometimes older all the time.

Can you post photo from the front?

CWatters said:

Can you post photo from the front?

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Sorry no - Forum image upload to restrictive

First question I have is, are the tires correct? Don't pay attention to the numbers on the sidewall, measure the actual height with correct air pressure. It's a crap shoot if tires a mismatched.

Spindle bushings are a common wear item, and they will make the frontend appear to be "twisted".

Auto Doc's said:

First question I have is, are the tires correct? Don't pay attention to the numbers on the sidewall, measure the actual height with correct air pressure. It's a crap shoot if tires a mismatched.

Spindle bushings are a common wear item, and they will make the frontend appear to be "twisted".

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Spindle bushings - ? The only spindles I know of are the cutter deck spindles (x3) with bearings not bushes.

There are bushes in the front wheel rims - they are all good. Front axle is level with the ground.

This is likly a terminological misunderstanding - please go further with your description

Tyres are matched across the axles

What model is it...such as 264-H, 430-gt, just the model on the hood or steering tower? They made plastic hood models going back to the late '90s. To be sure it is the frame, measure the distance from the floor to the frame at the front axle on both sides. Sometimes it can be the hood mounts causing it to appear twisted. Another measurement would be the space from the top of the front axle to the frame where it articulates. Those frames did have a lot of flex...try driving it into a step gully, such as a drainage ditch, at a 45-degree angle, and you will see what I mean. It will flex a lot before lifting a wheel. The weak spot is between the rear of the engine and the steering tower.

They also called the part that front wheels are mounted on spindles which can be to the front axle by bearings or bushings. Depending if the mower is a riding type or ZTR as to they look like.

Here is an example of a front spindle from JD.

Now the assembly that this attaches to they call the axle that goes from the left to right side spindles that pivots in the middle.

In the case of the D150 the cast iron axle has no bushings from the factory but a resourceful mechanic can add them. Other mower can bushings like the Gravely ZTR I did back a couple months ago that nylon bushings in the axle which both side were busted.

This is a Toro Wheel Horse 17.44 HXL - I apologise for not giving the full details at the start.

Still cutting a great lawn. Still looking a bit "wonky" from the front - wife (main user) loves it

Skippydiesel said:

This is a Toro Wheel Horse 17.44 HXL - I apologise for not giving the full details at the start.

Still cutting a great lawn. Still looking a bit "wonky" from the front - wife (main user) loves it

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Ah, very weak frames and a common issue...run er. Surprised the hood is still intact!

kbowley said:

Ah, very weak frames and a common issue...run er. Surprised the hood is still intact!

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Who said the "hood is still intact" - It sort of is - I have replaced the front with sheat metal, riveted on and the broken plastic top vent with an aluminium one. Toro goes a lot faster now

so maybe the sheet metal is crooked

sgkent said:

so maybe the sheet metal is crooked

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HaHa!
I may be an amature sheet metal worker but no the problem is elsewhere. If I take the bonnet/hood off the engine looks crooked.
As the mower is working well I don't realy want to disassemble the whole thing just to fix what is an aesthetic annoyance.
I wish I could post photos on this Forum, you would see for yourself.
Out of several forums that I contribute to, this is one of two that wont accept photos, from me? Australia?

"Ah, very weak frames and a common issue...run er"

By "runer", do you mean chassis rails?

Skippydiesel said:

"Ah, very weak frames and a common issue...run er"

By "runer", do you mean chassis rails?

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LOL, no, I mean run it like you stole it; it is a non issue.

put it on a flat surface and start taking measurements to see where the differences are. That will tell you what to do next. Frame could be straight but a subframe, mount etc., could be broken. There are some model mowers that have two or three piece frames, and some of those subunits break or crack.