Battery issue - 03 Tiger Cub - 23hp Kawasaki

Scooter. I like your determination, but you need some electrical checks. On cars sometimes a running electrical check can be made on components . A fuel pump draws a known amount of current . The one I once checked with an ammeter drew 8 amps which was near the limit of the DVM. If someone knows what the PTO (electrical clutch) draws to lock up and then hold seems like a check could be made. Or a substitute clutch installed (tedious on my Intek). I am the limit of experience on this. It may be time to either substitute a part (without buying it-fat chance:smile:) or find a knowledgable shop.
 
Ok guys, had a chance to do a little more testing. So here are the results
Battery charged, non running
13.03 volts
Battery running
12.63
Voltage Regulator
left prong
-8.86 to -9.00
Middle prong
-9.89 to -10.03
Right prong
-9.81 to 10.01
That would be looking at it from like the seat area.
What's the chance I got a bad Voltage Regulator? I remember checking it after I got it and it was around 14 if I remember right.
This was done at idle also.
Please anymore ideas would be great. I really don't want to take it to the shop at $70 a hour.
 
Lawn Mower Parts, Small Engine Parts & Much More! | PartsTree.com - Briggs, MTD, Toro, Cub Cadet, Husqvarna, Troy-bilt... You need to replace charging coil under flywheel, instructions are in manual that I posted earlier, part # 59031, also referred to as alternator. If you have a multimeter check it out before ordering, a battery is just for cranking purposes, whereas a charging coil/alternator keeps battery fully charged and electrical system up and running. Start at page 9-14 for testing of charging coil, voltage regulator, etc. Let us know how it works out, thanks, MERRY CHRISTMAS.
 
Last edited:
mechanic mark said:
Lawn Mower Parts, Small Engine Parts & Much More! | PartsTree.com - Briggs, MTD, Toro, Cub Cadet, Husqvarna, Troy-bilt... You need to replace charging coil under flywheel, instructions are in manual that I posted earlier, part # 59031, also referred to as alternator. If you have a multimeter check it out before ordering, a battery is just for cranking purposes, whereas a charging coil/alternator keeps battery fully charged and electrical system up and running. Start at page 9-14 for testing of charging coil, voltage regulator, etc. Let us know how it works out, thanks, MERRY CHRISTMAS.
Click to expand...


So here is how I tested the charging coil/stator, if it's not right please let me know. I took the prongs on the voltmeter and pushed through the insulation before the voltage regulator and still got a negative reading. Then I unplugged the wires and checked them unplugged and got a 0 reading on it. I think I'm getting closer
 
skooter94 said:
So here is how I tested the charging coil/stator, if it's not right please let me know. I took the prongs on the voltmeter and pushed through the insulation before the voltage regulator and still got a negative reading. Then I unplugged the wires and checked them unplugged and got a 0 reading on it. I think I'm getting closer
Click to expand...
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts" Your engine is FH680V twelve down, follow instructions & go for it, let us know how it goes, thanks.
 
Alright guys, I bought a new stator or how Kawasaki says it, it's a charging coil. I think this going to fix it. The guy at the shop said when my seal was leaking it coated the stator and it fries it when they heat up. I will give another update in a few weeks when I start mowing.
 
Charging coils come in a few variations.
This to accomodate the different electrical loads applied by the mower.
If you motor was changed out & you have one from a mower with a manual PTO (Lever not a switch ) the charging coils will not be able to cope with the load applied by the electic PTO so as you are mowing the battery will slowly drain.

Next, some lower output charging coils will require any thing up to 2 hours of continious full speed running to recover the power the starter used starting the mower.

Another thing to remember is the mower engine must always be running at WFO speeds to effectively recharge the battery.
I had a customer who was gobbleing up a battery every season. Reason was the mower went too fast for him so he ran it at 1/2 throttle so it was never fully recharging the battery.
I adjusted the seat so he was more solidly seated then adjusted the control levers to their least sensative position and problem solved.
Seems a common predelivery around here to set the control levers to the most sensitive position & adjust the mower to go maximum speed, perhaps the mechanics do drags at lunchtime.
This is quite daunting especially to owners new to ZTR's or that machine, They also seem to set the seat height for Harlem Gloetrotters so the owner is sitting there with 10" between his feet and the foot board.
 
Well the stator didn't work. Mowed somewhere around 3 hours and it died. So here is what I now have found. With it running wide open, the voltage regulator is around -15 to -19. I unhooked the stator wires and they read 0. Could I have gotten a bad stator or voltage regulator? So bummed. Thought I had it.
 
When you check the alternator voltage it must be in circuit ie connected to the mower .
When you check the resistance Ω on the alternator it must be disconnected.
So a 0 reading when unplugged is correct.
with the mower running you test the voltage between the two same colours wires going into the rectifier and it should be some where between 18 & 30 Volts AC ( check your specs )
With the unit still plugged in you take a voltage rading from the single red ( usually) wire to earth and you should get 13 to 18 V DC

Now get some one to sit in the seat and chack the readings again with the blades engaged, if either of these two readings drop more than 10% then you have too much current ( amps ) draw so either the regulator or alternator is not puttng in enough power or the clutch is drawing too much power.

I use an old car ammeter +/- 30A with two long wire fitted with spade terminals.
I slip out the fuse & connect the meter into the fuse holder.
If the meter does not show a + reading, swap the wires over.
Next connect the pto lights or what evr else you are testing and the ampmeter should show a lower but still + reading .
If not then the device is drawing more power than the engine can make
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top